Some observations fighting IAT's with JLT CAI

Discussion in 'V8 5.0L Engine / Mods: Bolt-ons, Exhaust, Tuning' started by pgonza2723, Jul 12, 2019.

  1. Zrussian13

    Zrussian13 Well-Known Member

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    Plus those honeycombs serve a purpose. Removing a few ok but removing all probably wasn't the best idea. Now that you sealed the top of the box you can get rid of the heat tape everywhere. The lack of seal was your issue. I have the jlt plus e54r tune in phoenix. Once your box is in place and adjusted so it seals against the hood iats are fine. 111° yesterday and I was 2-5° above ambient when moving, even crawling thru traffic. I never rose above 125° when sitting at stops either.
     
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  2. OP
    OP
    pgonza2723

    pgonza2723 Well-Known Member

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    Not sure if bad, but haven't seen any detrimental effects such as hood flutter, etc etc. Usually the closing off of grills from an OEM standpoint is done for decrease in drag which helps MPG standards. My observation was that was a good first step in introducing more air and at the very least helped with IATs. In regards to more power from it.... Undecided but doubtful, but more air movement can never hurt.

    Good info on top of.hox sealing. Did you do anything to adjust/help seal your box? Tape there to stay till adhesive dries out and comes off. Don't think it's hurting anything at this point.
     
  3. Schwerin

    Schwerin Well-Known Member

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    JLT design looks similar to the GT350/BULLITT in concept. I wonder if they do anything to help deal it better for IAT's.
     
  4. Zrussian13

    Zrussian13 Well-Known Member

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    No it stays in place on it's own. When I installed mine last winter I noticed my iats were Higher than I thought they should be so I adjusted the box to sit higher and seal better around the intake tube and hood. I just loosened the coupling at the tb and everything moved pretty easily. I thought it would work it's way back down over time but so far so good.
     
  5. Geo

    Geo Member

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  6. Geo

    Geo Member

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    I also noticed high IAT’s when I installed my JLT intake last year. It’s a good design concept but very cheap thin wall plastic tubing. Like you I wrapped the tube but went a step further in adding two layers. The first was high heat header wrap and the second was adhesive back aluminum tape. Results where great, temps took much longer to rise when in traffic but would not exceed 120-125. IAT’s drop fast when moving and remained 2-3 degrees higher than outside temps.

    Most of my driving is done during fall, winter and spring. Summer is spent modding my mustang. 056C6AF8-D218-4DD9-8FC0-1960D2658C5B.jpeg
     
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  7. armykyle1

    armykyle1 Well-Known Member

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    Pmas on my 18. It's foam window units supposedly. Definitely helps and the temps drop quickly. 20190601_170103.jpg
     
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  8. 18GTmustang

    18GTmustang Well-Known Member

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    this is a good idea ... What if stock 18 box gets wrapped for colder iat?
     
  9. cmxPPL219

    cmxPPL219 Well-Known Member

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    Could be worth a try.

    As some have hinted at in this thread, for the Non-GT350 stock air boxes, they are very good. Ford has to balance a lot of different factors when designing it, including cost (as any other OEM) but for a stock airbox on a more performance oriented car, it is very good - it is designed to perform in many scenarios, hot, cold, humidity, dust, etc. Hence the closed design, like most other cars, to battle a lot of variables - Heat soak primarily one of them.

    Now, in GT350/R, the stock air box is replaced with open element, as this version was obviously designed to be stretched out on a track, with constant forward movement at speed, thus airflow, thus heat soak is less of a concern. Of course, any time this open element setup is driven in heat, in traffic etc., IATs will go up.

    Like anything more hard-core performance related, there is some price to pay.

    So, generally, barring tunes or other factors. Aftermarket CAIs (or, really, WAIs or “Short Ram Intakes,” as some others would call these, since the filter still sits in the engine bay itself) will suffer the same fate as a stock GT350/R open element.
     
  10. NastyPumpkin

    NastyPumpkin Well-Known Member

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    #25 NastyPumpkin, Jul 15, 2019
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2019
    I fully insulated the outer box with heavy duty heat reflector Ford insulation and top. Also I did the air inlet box which sits against the side of the radiator. My IAT’s are now only 2 degrees higher than outside temp. And does a great job at idle keeping it cooler at around 10 to 15 degrees higher in 93 degree heat outside. Which has helped me greatly with drag racing every Sunday, at the staging lanes and burn out box. 96A65F3E-6388-4A72-B0A5-572A910B3E18.jpeg DD000C62-CDC7-4E1F-80E8-AE5BDF58BD85.jpeg 60BFCEEA-333E-47CE-A8A1-5C849355FE8E.jpeg
     
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  11. Bluemustang

    Bluemustang Well-Known Member

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    Maybe because the JLT can bring in more air to make more hp at higher rpms so naturally people want to try to reduce its weakness. In many cases aftermarket CAIs can be a bad thing, yet beneficial for other applications.

    For instance I was watching TV the other day and an Porsche 996 owner had a JLT style CAI, but the intake tube/filter was just sitting right in the middle of the engine bay. The stock intake has a special snorkel and airbox to funnel cold air from outside the car. So needless to say this is bad because all it's doing is breathing in hot air from around the engine. In the GT the airbox is at least somewhat sealed to the hood with the aftermarket CAIs and has a snorkel that feeds through the grille openings to the outside air. Is the JLT ideal in all situations? No. But if it could be sealed pretty well keeping IAT down I imagine it could be fairly versatile. Hell even the stock intake will heat soak at some point.
     
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  12. cib24

    cib24 Well-Known Member

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    The thing is, if you are on the street stuck in NYC traffic or whatever, you will heatsoak. Every car will. An enclosed box like the OEM system will do better than an open element like the JLT in this situation.

    If you are drag racing and waiting in the queue with your engine on you will heatsoak, so keep your bonnet open until you stage. Additionally, add some minor water injection as I mentioned earlier of only about 150-250cc/min and your temps will be managed so that you get full power from the launch to the end of your run.

    If you run on a road course or backroads then you won't heatsoak because the car is moving and tons of air is flowing through the bumpers and engine bay.

    Has anyone dyno'd the JLT or another aftermarket intake without a tune to see if there is actually any difference in power on the OEM tune? The OEM intake design doesn't look like it is restrictive on a N/A motor so do these aftermarket units do anything at all even if their pipework is larger? I have only been able to find before and after dyno results of a stock car, and then a stock car + intake + tune. Obviously, if the car is tuned it's going to make more power. Even a stock car tuned specifically for 93 makes more power than the OEM tune.
     
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  13. Zelek

    Zelek Well-Known Member

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    All JLT intakes require a tune so it's not possible. You'd have to tune for both then compare. The main difference you'll see is more power in the upper rpms over the stock intake. It's not a lot though. There is a pretty big difference with forced induction though.
     
  14. cib24

    cib24 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, with FI I can obviously see the benefit since you are trying to shove more air into the cylinders, but N/A the manifold and heads are already well optimised to flow about as good as you can expect so I'm struggling to see how an aftermarket intake on a stock GT makes any difference at all that's worth spending money over. I do see how replacing the manifold, throttle body and intake with, say GT350 components, can open things up a bit but that is committing to 3 modifications that all benefit from one another as a complete unit.

    Otherwise, you probably get the most bang for your buck N/A from a high octane or E85 (if it's available to you) tune on a stock car and a higher final drive in the rear end like 4.09s or 4.56s.
     
  15. smoke_wagon_6g

    smoke_wagon_6g Well-Known Member

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    It's called good throwing money after bad, in other words the "sunk cost fallacy" is on full display in this man.

    He's already spent hundreds of dollars for the CAI (hot air intake really), a tune, and plenty of valuable time. It just HAS to work!

    Remember the 80's cars that actually had exposed paper filters under the hood? Big round paper filter in the air cleaner right on top of the carburetor? Then we plumbed hoses to the wheel well or grille to get some cool air in there. Or used ram air hoods, or heat extractors.

    This hot air intake trend is completely backwards! The factory airbox delivers cold air right to the throttle body already. Power gains for a "CAI", if any, are due to the tune they tell you to get when you install one. Calling then CAIs with a straight face is a marketing slam dunk. The lie is in the name of the product.

    Look OP, if the intake air temps bother you this much go back to the stock airbox. Why reinvent the wheel? Maybe you can keep your tune anyway.
     
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