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So what's the deal with the 2K-rpm rattle?

JustnTheNick

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Does this rattle sound kind of like a faint/mellow rod knock?
No it's loud when you're driving next to a wall. Like a ratchet clicking fast at 3k exactly no load on the engine. It evolved after a few months into a rattle at low rpms. Like a tin can. I gotta video.

This was the 3k rattle, no load sound. Happened when I shifted, but it could also happen in neutral.



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M-Driver

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I maybe have a hint for some of you with the rattling issue.
I have a 2016 GT AT. There is a bellhousing spacer plate between the transmission and the motor. I don't know why, but it somehow vibrates at certain rpm. I add some pics from beneath my car. The arrows point at the spacer plate and a smaller maintenance plate.

IMG_20210804_193240.jpg


Searching for my problem before I found the solution I stumbled across another rattling cause. There is a pipe close to the catalytic converter. The support of the pipe sometimes seems to dislocate somehow so that the pipe gets in contact to the cat, causing an annoying rattle.

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monte87

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I had to listen to the video three or four times to understand what we were talking about. I can barely hear it if I listen very carefully, and if I'm aware that I should hear something in that particular rev range. Frankly, I don't think it would bother me. It's just the way this engine happens to sound.
What would, however, bother me would be this one:



While the DI injector tick and the 2k rattle are consistent and don't sound particularly unnatural, this typewriter tick is a different matter. Someone who hears the DI tick or the 2k rattle might say: "hmmm, your engine does seem to be a bit noisy". Someone who hears the typewriter tick will say: "oh my God, your engine's broken!".
We are talking about the 2k rattle, not the BBQ tick. 2 diff noises.
Ant
 

monte87

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Very interesting PI/DI article; thank you for posting it. That article makes the so-called '2K rattle' harder to explain as a PI/DI transition, since it can happen basically anywhere in the rev range. Now, the way most of us are experiencing it, is super light on the throttle, and starting at around 2.3K rpm. The question is: What percentage of engine load are we using there? It should be minimal. It can only start at 2,250 rpm at 40% engine load, which is where it starts in my car (and most others). But no way we're using that much load barely touching the throttle, so what is it then? At any rate, a test we could make is to give more sudden load to the engine when it starts to rattle, to see if it goes away.

As far as the 'typewriter click', it sounds awful indeed. And extremely hard to tell if it's rod-bearing knock or piston slap... but there are ways to tell :). Hope my engine doesn't do that, but at least right now, it doesn't. And that means my engine shouldn't have piston slap, or it'd be there since day 1. Therefore, if that noise starts later on, it has to be rod-bearing IMO. Besides, piston slap is much more prevalent when cold, meaning if it happens when hot, it must be awful when cold. Two of my Corvettes had it (LS1 and LS2 engines), but only for a fraction of a second during a cold weather cold start. The 'CLACK CLACK CLACK' noise is deafening inside the garage. So I personally don't buy that it's hot piston slap, when it doesn't have any cold piston slap; makes no sense to me.
and rattle only happens when engine is cold, initial start up... on mine anyways.
Anthony
 
 




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