So what do we really know about the internals of the 5.2 engine?

[J_Maher_AMG]

Who said 1,000 HP? Don't put words in my mouth.

Did you read the OP? 850rwhp ~ 1000bhp

Sponsored

 

[Epiphany]

Lol. Thanks Justin.

 

[Darkane]

Id like to see someone build a voodoo from the bottom up, with 12:1 compression n/a. i bet it would be easy to get another 150hp and rev at 9000 rpm....would be badass!

The voodoo has 12:1 factory stock.

Mahle have a custom set for the 5.2aluminator cpc they built but getting a set will be difficult. CR on those is 12.5:1

Voodoo won't last long at 9,000 because of piston speed and rod ratio. The engine needs to be fairly over square to last at those speeds.

 

[mustang1]

... Your OPG is stronger than the stock GT one.

proof ? I wouldn't count on that with an engine that costs almost as much as my car, while MMR is selling their billet OPG that fits both GT and GT350 :

2011 - 2017 5.0 Mustang GT Coyote MMR Billet Oil Pump gears
Starting at: $319.99
Premium US 9310 Billet Steel

Fits:
2011-2017 Mustang GT
2016+ GT350

 

[JN66]

proof ? I wouldn't count on that with an engine that costs almost as much as my car, while MMR is selling their billet OPG that fits both GT and GT350 :

2011 - 2017 5.0 Mustang GT Coyote MMR Billet Oil Pump gears
Starting at: $319.99
Premium US 9310 Billet Steel

Fits:
2011-2017 Mustang GT
2016+ GT350

Beautiful as well:

http://www.modularmotorsportsracing...in_page=product_info&cPath=80&products_id=269

 

[Lexluther]

The OPG housing is different but the gear is the same between Voodoo and Coyote I had a long discussion with MRR why their Hurricane full oil pump won't fit the voodoo while the gear was interchangeable. I bought the gear.

As far as HP MRR has a 1000whp package and thats as far as the stock block can go without sleeving it. The cylinder walls have that Plasma Transfer Wire Arc technology http://www.*******************/2015/11/09/tech-shelby-gt350-cylinder-liners/#more-22594 so does the coyote according to MRR. The weak link as the coyote is the rods. As far as the pistons go you would need ones with stronger wrist pins also the rings are low tension. When you upgrade rings you'll get more HP but also loose some due to the added friction of stronger rings.

The heads are phonemail in flow there is some improvement again MRR has some stuff. That's the only co I can quote as they've done some builds and Hellion uses them for bottom ends on their turbo's I spoke to them also. I've had hours of discussions and in the end there are limits to reason and only so stupid you get on HP. The GT350 is a track car and you can't have too much power as there are limits to traction and how much tire you can stuff under it.

Want a 1000hp car wait for the GT500 which is claimed at 750hp so assuming its boosted you can crank it up to your 1000hp. The drivetrain loss depending on the car and dyno is 15-16% to help you calculate crank HP vs wheel

Also you'll blow your rear end axles etc. all have to be upgraded. I was looking at the Hellion turbo kit cranked to the max 1200hp rating 1000hp wheel and all in its was over 30k to make a solid car with built engine and drivetrain. Sure someone will say there are GT's with 1000hp but nobody knows how long they will last before something blows. Nobody knows how long the stock engine lasts there are too many unknowns to tread into the 1k HP territory without deep pockets. If you do please tell us about it so we can follow in your shoes once all the bugs are worked out and there is scaled economy to each step and parts that it will take.

The only solids right now are the superchargers whipple, vortech and pro-charger. Edlebrock's kit is in testing at least they offer a warranty you can buy while the other are at your own risk.

OPG and timing sprocket should be upgraded as your yanking on the crank to spin the blower

The cobrajet engine is rated to 8500rpm with its blower making 1000hp its coyote based and launches as 7000rpm. The voodoo block is a reinforced coyote so it should take this power level. MRR has built some 10,000rpm coyotes and uses that as a bench mark for some of their rotating assemblies. The engine as a whole would need to be highly balanced at that level of speed and your not getting 100k miles out the engine.

If you use a common references such as other NA engines from other brands as a whole 600hp would be reasonable for the voodoo and any other in the 5liter range 700hp stroked but the cylinder liners don't go all the way and have a stepped lip so there is a limit to that also and max rpm has to come down.

 

[JN66]

Thanks for the info Lex.

Would you ugrade the OPG if you were just going to keep the engine stock (but track it) or do a standard tune? (Lund, etc?)

 

[ARS1]

Yeah what good is 1000hp if your only handicapping the cars track capabilities by doing so. Now you've put yourself in Hellcat territory being able to go balls out until you come to a corner :eyebulge: Basically turning a highly capable track car into a drag car :headbonk: This car is pretty well balanced as far as power to traction from the factory. I can see HP gains that can be overcome by tires and other suspension mods but not basically doubling the HP from the factory on a car like this. If I wanted to build a 1000hp car I'd just go buy a Hellcat since you're really not hurting yourself doing so. It's a straight line boat from the factory and all Fiat was trying to do was get the highest HP out of it they could since they can't do anything else with that thing. I want to park next to one because I saw one the other day on the street and it looked a good 3ft longer than my GT350

 

[Lexluther]

Thanks for the info Lex.

Would you ugrade the OPG if you were just going to keep the engine stock (but track it) or do a standard tune? (Lund, etc?)

I would and I am. The replacement engine doesn't have a serial number other mfg do the same thing. The GT350 replaced my C7 corvette stingray when that popped at 3k miles. I felt the car was devalued and the law agreed with me and car was bought back. The replacement engine you see here on the forum threads have a bar code label thats just a parts tag the stock engine has it as well so there is nothing linking the engine to the car no longer numbers matching and it looks like the car is a beater or tracked hard upon resale.

So purely from the hassle and depreciation perspective I am going to change out the OPG, crank timing sprocket, secondary chains, and pivot chain guides to MRR stuff. When they quoted me the 1000 wheel horsepower forged lower build these were the only parts they listed. They offer a full billet timing gear set up and some other parts but MRR didn't fell I needed it for under 1000hp

I am no longer going to mod the car to hellion turbo's and leave it as a track/sporty car which is the smart move for this car. Anything more I should really consider trading for the GT500 when it comes out. Historically the GT350 has been a track car and GT500 a drag car in design. I also own a Hellcat and thats being worked on to 950 wheel hp almost 1200 at the crank so that will be my drag car.

As far as tune nobody know more than Lund however I feel that's more off the shelf and there is some arrogance surrounding them that's purely my personal opinion so allow me that before I get flammed. The ghost tuned cars die on idle and have some drivability concerns. Most tuners do HP or sct equipment so if you didn't like the lund your kind of stuck since the software if specific to lund. I am going with AED out of Sacramento Cali the guy always answers the phone and will spend time and answer each and every question until your completely satisfied so I feel more comfortable with them. They have great reviews here and elsewhere for both GT350's and GT's. Their ghost tune picks up at 1100rpm which is where I take off anyways and the car has no problems idling or driving. Other have said Bama after that and than Lund. Bama sells their own tuner its basically just an SCT same as AED so you have options if you didn't like your tune to go to the competitor. I like the n-guage so I am going to call and see if AED can work with me and use that instead of the act handheld.

I would caution against any tune due to voiding warranty and that these cars are tuned from the factory your not squeezing out much for what you give up. You can do some bolt ons without a tune and allow the factory tune to adjust. You may drop 10hp on a total build but you can pick that back up and more with an electric water pump like the Meziere or you can do the ford performance one or MRR so you level the playing field and not alter the factory software and warranty. I've done so much business with my dealer were on very friendly terms and I kick ass when something isn't right so I have no warranty concerns also since I pay them to install all my aftermarket parts so its all internal to them if something fails.

 

[ford20]

That's a defect, not the part. Your OPG is stronger than the stock GT one.

Most definitely not, they have different housings as I'm sure you know, but they are the same gear.

This is why you should change out your gears even if you are at stock power levels and going to road race your car. About 15 or so minutes into a track session after getting the motor back up and running:

Granted he races in ST2 so I don't think you are going to see the kind of abuses he does during your normal HPDE event, but it's a nice little piece of mind for sure.

I agree with the super villan here if you are going to be using your car for its intended purpose, keep it NA, maybe some power mods but in all honesty I think the 460ish is more than enough on track. Heck even just an E85 tune would wake the car up just a bit IMO and give you the added piece of mind of running a better quality fuel that you can check.

I would stay away from Bama with the GT350 and only really trust them with your basic cookie cutter mods in all honesty. AED would be a good choice if you aren't a fan of Lund. I haven't spent a whole lot of time looking into them, but I doubt he's going to get in touch with you about that N-Gauge since you would have to use HP tuners with it and Shawn does not like HP tuners at all since you can basically see all of his work and rightfully so he is very secretive & protective of his tune files. If you are looking for a N-Gauge you can get in touch with JPC Racing or Justin Jordan and see if they can't get you set up since they sell them.

http://www.jpcracing.com/hp-tuners-ngauge/

https://www.facebook.com/jordanperformanceandracing/

 

[Agcsr25]

Back in Feb, I spoke with some of the Ford Performance guys and asked about the GT350 connecting rods. They confirmed that they are NOT sintered carbon steel rods like the coyote. They are forged micro alloy steel rods with split cracked caps made by Mahle. They said they couldn't divulge what the alloy was. They gave me some hints and a contact at Mahle. I cannot say with 100% certainty but I think the alloy is 46MnVS6 which has a fatigue strength about 20% higher than premium powder forged rods.

I also enquired about the gt350 opg which is indeed that same as the coyote. They claim they have not had a issue with them and have extensively raced them in the Boss 302S and R with 7500+ rpms. They felt the ones that shattered had a problem to start with such as a void. Hope this helps.

 

[Stage_3]

We don't know anything. Lethal had their car boosted seems like the day after they got it. Made a dyno run and haven't heard anything else. A few boosted cars out there and not one single time slip.

BINGO!!!!!
Thank you sir. People post photos of a boosted GT350, but what good is it if we don't see videos of it running at the strip or any posts of an actual boosted GT350 car?!

Sponsored