Signature Wheel’s GT500 Adventures

[Tomster]

Being new to this stud and nut business...<smile> I too wondered about Mark's photos, Tom since T's photos didn't have the recess.

So, what length studs are on the photo of your 350? Should we just measure the missing stud length after installing one or are there only short and long studs? Inquiring minds want to know, don'tcha know? :-)

Stock OEM, I'd have to look it up. Your studs will be flush with the end of the lug, just as pictured in my photo. Ford uses longer studs for the CF wheels because they are thicker.

Yea, its a personal preference. If I had shorter studs, I would probably opt for a closed ended lug nut. I wonder why T hasn't made something like that for non CFTP folks

 

[kilobravo]

Ahhhhhh...<long exhale...> that's a relief, Tom..many thanks. One less thing to worry about. Maybe this week if I find the time and it isn't too dang HOT.

 

[marklboris]

It is absolutely a personal thing, Mark although, unlike you, I had never seen studs recessed like that. It DOES look good, I just wondered about dirt and other contamination.

Hasn't seem to be an issue with my friends and I can have caps made for the ends if I find there is an issue with mine. They are staying the way they are for now though.

 

[50 Deep]

Using the lube when putting on the lugs, do you have to use the lube every time the lug comes off?

@Tomster , @Epiphany

Generally an initial application is enough. My wheels come on and off frequently and I hadn’t reapplied any until maybe a year in.

A good option is to remove the wheel, apply the anti seize, and run the lug nut on and off a few times to ensure a good coating on all threads. After that you should be good for a long while.

 

[50 Deep]

However those lugs don't look right. Go and get yourself some MSI or ARP longer length studs. I think Terrance just did the mod with ARP and his only regret was not taking my advice and using MSI.
below are OEM studs. If I were to ever swap them out, I'd get MSI.

Agreed. The ARP studs get the job done, but they are only 1” longer than stock. If I were to do it again I would do MSI 3” front and 2” rear.

 

[Jmeo]

I did not realize there was a difference in stud length between the base and snack pack. Hmmm, I may be passing these off to someone else then. I thought these would be flush, like in Tom's picture. I don't really see the point of them if they are not.

 

[Jmeo]

If anyone wants my unused Titanium lug nuts, shoot me a PM

 

[Tomster]

If anyone wants my unused Titanium lug nuts, shoot me a PM

I wouldn't abandon ship just yet..... studs are easy to replace. If you don't want to bother with each stud, just get CFTP hubs. The turn of 4 bolts per wheel and you are set.

The Ti lugs are a nice touch.

 

[Jmeo]

I wouldn't abandon ship just yet..... studs are easy to replace. If you don't want to bother with each stud, just get CFTP hubs. The turn of 4 bolts per wheel and you are set.

The Ti lugs are a nice touch.

Tom, are we sure if the Ti lugs will be flush with CFTP hubs, and signature wheels?

 

[Tomster]

Tom, are we sure if the Ti lugs will be flush with CFTP hubs, and signature wheels?

Well, I will know in about a month. @kilobravo should know any day now.

He's MIA. I hope he's ok

@50 Deep would have a better idea, since I probably won't see a 20" signature wheel for a while.

I wouldn't part with those lugs until I absolutely made my mind up. T doesn't crank them out. They are special.

 

[kilobravo]

I beeze fine, Tom but thanks for thinking of me. :-)

And Jaime, I agree, they are not only special, they're GORGEOUS. As I told Tom, I plan to pull all four next week, if not sooner, so I can clean, clay, and ceramic coat them.

When that's done, I'll be ready for the lug nut check. (I hope my star wrench will fit, it does on the OEM's but I'm not sure about these.) Don't think I have a thin-walled socket, either. Don't wanna use the impact wrench but maybe one of those sockets will work. Worst case, I'll go buy one.

 

[marklboris]

KB, I don't know how much different your carbon wheels are from the Signature wheels I have but I have plenty of room to use my 6-point impact socket on the TI nuts without damaging the wheel. Of course I take them on and off by hand and not with an impact driver. The OEM nuts used a 21mm socket where as the TI nuts use a 19mm socket.

 

[50 Deep]

I did not realize there was a difference in stud length between the base and snack pack. Hmmm, I may be passing these off to someone else then. I thought these would be flush, like in Tom's picture. I don't really see the point of them if they are not.

The benefit for shorter stud length applications is the titanium lug nuts sit at the same depth front to rear. So you no longer need to dive deep into the bore to access the lug nut. The OEM lug nuts are also prone to swelling and the chrome cap on them will crush after use. A few people have had to destroy lug nuts to get them off. Trust me, you want those on your wheels.

 

[50 Deep]

I beeze fine, Tom but thanks for thinking of me. :-)

And Jaime, I agree, they are not only special, they're GORGEOUS. As I told Tom, I plan to pull all four next week, if not sooner, so I can clean, clay, and ceramic coat them.

When that's done, I'll be ready for the lug nut check. (I hope my star wrench will fit, it does on the OEM's but I'm not sure about these.) Don't think I have a thin-walled socket, either. Don't wanna use the impact wrench but maybe one of those sockets will work. Worst case, I'll go buy one.

looking forward to your test fit KB. I designed these to use a 19mm socket and increase clearance within the bore. Any standard 19mm chrome socket should work just fine. No need for an impact or specialty socket.

 

[50 Deep]

The Green Mamba!
3 years ago I saw Jeff and Tyler Scofield and his dad Jeff building some amazing Mustangs. I always hoped I could work with them. Finally that day has arrived.
Introducing their 2020 Grabber Lime GT500. Rolling on 20” Brushed Titanium Signature Wheel SV107. 20x11.5 square with the OEM 305/315 tires.

Signature Wheel Attack Series SV602
This has been a long time coming. A forged monoblock wheel with the capability to reach into deep negative offsets, and have an exposed wheel lip. This new Attack Series allows us to get the look of a Multipiece wheel, without the need to step up in wheel diameter. Meaning this can be built for the GT500 in a 20" or GT350 in a 19". The only caveat is that due to the larger GT350/GT500 rear brake calipers, we need to run a more aggressive rear fitment. Lets see what you all think of these.