Should I get Myself a DA polisher?

[Burgo]

pretty much facts right here.
I had a old hood I practiced with a little, but had to really try hard to mess the paint up... to “burn it” like a lot of pressure high speed and not moving it.

also pretty much the same here. once done, especially if you ceramic coat it, you don’t really need it again. UNLESS you use it to put on glazes and sealants and waxes. I’m still not sure if I’m any faster using the DA to do this or not, but I do use less product with it.

The only time I get my DA polisher out now is for spot correction to tackle stuff I can't get out by hand. My wife dragged some heavy shopping bags out of the boot (trunk) and down over the rear bumper leaving some scuff marks, it was perfect for this especially if you get some 80mm pads.

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[Cobra Jet]

Using a DA is as easy as eating pie...

With any DA, you don’t need to put any pressure on the unit against the body panels. Let the unit do the work, all you’re doing is guiding it along. Sure if there’s some areas of concern you can put a little pressure, but honestly with the correct pad and polish combo, you’re guiding the unit along.

Use painters tape to mask off any of the bare black ABS body parts and window trims. You don’t want to hit them with any polish or wax, otherwise when those sections dry or are in the sunlight you’ll end up with a lot of “white” residue and sometimes it can be a PIA to remove.

For me and this is purely personal preference and has worked for years:

After applying Brand-X polish product, for removal I first use install a microfiber bonnet. I go over the entire panel using the MF bonnet. Any areas where the DA can’t get, I use a hand microfiber to remove any minute amount of product. After using the MF bonnet, I then switch over to the sheep’s wool bonnet and again go over the entire panel. This process I do practically eliminates any manual hand removal efforts. The sheep’s wool bonnet just adds the finishing touch, eliminates any possibility of leftover product and really makes the body panels “pop”. Then lastly, I open the hood, trunk, doors and gas door and using a MF, I just wipe down all edges of those panels and the adjacent body edges.

When using the DA and applying product some folks recommend going in a figure 8 pattern. What has worked best for me is to go with the grain (no 8). Meaning, say you’re working on the front hood - go with the grain which would be starting from front bumper and going back towards windshield and repeating. If working the doors, again go with the grain and go Left to Right and so on.

You’re going to really like using the DA and probably be like “wtf, why didn’t I get one of those years ago”! It literally can cut your detailing time down by 1/2 the effort.

I’ve had my PC 7424 for over 12 years now, still works like new and is used quite often.

 

[Qcman17]

I have no idea what I'm doing but it looks like i do LOL....

View attachment 393501

 

[Qcman17]

Using a DA is as easy as eating pie...

With any DA, you don’t need to put any pressure on the unit against the body panels. Let the unit do the work, all you’re doing is guiding it along. Sure if there’s some areas of concern you can put a little pressure, but honestly with the correct pad and polish combo, you’re guiding the unit along.

Use painters tape to mask off any of the bare black ABS body parts and window trims. You don’t want to hit them with any polish or wax, otherwise when those sections dry or are in the sunlight you’ll end up with a lot of “white” residue and sometimes it can be a PIA to remove.

For me and this is purely personal preference and has worked for years:

After applying Brand-X polish product, for removal I first use install a microfiber bonnet. I go over the entire panel using the MF bonnet. Any areas where the DA can’t get, I use a hand microfiber to remove any minute amount of product. After using the MF bonnet, I then switch over to the sheep’s wool bonnet and again go over the entire panel. This process I do practically eliminates any manual hand removal efforts. The sheep’s wool bonnet just adds the finishing touch, eliminates any possibility of leftover product and really makes the body panels “pop”. Then lastly, I open the hood, trunk, doors and gas door and using a MF, I just wipe down all edges of those panels and the adjacent body edges.

When using the DA and applying product some folks recommend going in a figure 8 pattern. What has worked best for me is to go with the grain (no 8). Meaning, say you’re working on the front hood - go with the grain which would be starting from front bumper and going back towards windshield and repeating. If working the doors, again go with the grain and go Left to Right and so on.

You’re going to really like using the DA and probably be like “wtf, why didn’t I get one of those years ago”! It literally can cut your detailing time down by 1/2 the effort.

I’ve had my PC 7424 for over 12 years now, still works like new and is used quite often.

Thank you for all of this info Cobrajet I'll take it all into consideration.

 

[Jetnoise]

I never pull out my da unless stuff is looking bad. Just me.

 

[2015Etrac]

I have no idea what I'm doing but it looks like i do LOL....

View attachment 393501

Nice setup. I use one as well. You may not need compound if the paint isn't too pad. Try the polish and white pad first on a test spot, if that isn't enough switch to the compound and orange pad and then finish with the polish and white pad.

 

[Qcman17]

Nice setup. I use one as well. You may not need compound if the paint isn't too pad. Try the polish and white pad first on a test spot, if that isn't enough switch to the compound and orange pad and then finish with the polish and white pad.

Okay thanks for the advice yeah I wouldn't think I need to compound at this point but figured I would have it in case I needed to. I'll start as you suggest and hopefully that's enough.

 

[Dadillac]

The Meguiar's Ultimate compound and polish are actually very good. I used to use expensive products. Then I asked myself if I really want to pay the price for "boutique" stuff. Decided to stick to Meguiar's and have been happy with the results.

Don

 

[Qcman17]

The Meguiar's Ultimate compound and polish are actually very good. I used to use expensive products. Then I asked myself if I really want to pay the price for "boutique" stuff. Decided to stick to Meguiar's and have been happy with the results.

Don

Thanks Don I figured the same thing you can spend a lot on some of the stuff & it seemed to get okay reviews and seems fairly safe to use. I don't want something too aggressive until I learn how to do this half ways right.

 

[Dadillac]

Thanks Don I figured the same thing you can spend a lot on some of the stuff & it seemed to get okay reviews and seems fairly safe to use. I don't want something too aggressive until I learn how to do this half ways right.

Autogeek.com has a wealth of knowledge on how to get really good results with a DA. Lots of videos by Mike Philips that will show step by step. I do believe that his videos are also on Youtube but not sure. Using a DA is actually quite easy. Just work slowly as moving the machine too fast will not correct the paint. Good luck

Don

 

[Dadillac]

Oh and the DA is damn near idiot proof. As long as you keep your pad wet with product it is practically impossible to harm your paint. No dry pads and do not focus too much on edges of panels or high spots.

Don

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