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StangTime

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Edit, so after looking, do I just splice one of or both rear speaker wires and then to those adapters?

never ran it like this, learn me :)
You run both + & - speaker wires to the +/- on the RCA adapters. Some people cheat and use only one side since sub bass is mostly mono. My preference is to feed from both L and R sides and let the amp sum the signal. You can splice off and keep the rear speakers functional, but it were my car, I would unplug the rear speakers and plug these Metra 72-5602 speaker plug adapters so you don't have to molest a single OEM wire at all.
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yonson

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I just did this to my '21 a few weeks ago. All I used was an amp with high level inputs (Alpine S-A60M) I don't care for rear fill so I just removed the rear speakers and used the Metra speaker adapters @StangTime mentioned along with a couple RCA adapters from Amazon. I already had Forscan so I removed the bass roll off and it worked perfectly fine and added the much needed low end.

Of course I should have been happy with it like that, but the upgrade bug got me and I decided to redo the whole system, so I've been in the process of doing that the last couple of weeks hehe.
 
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Mustangfreek

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You run both + & - speaker wires to the +/- on the RCA adapters. Some people cheat and use only one side since sub bass is mostly mono. My preference is to feed from both L and R sides and let the amp sum the signal. You can splice off and keep the rear speakers functional, but it were my car, I would unplug the rear speakers and plug these Metra 72-5602 speaker plug adapters so you don't have to molest a single OEM wire at all.
@StangTime cool. So I think those are the adpter dealios I was sent when I ordered and installed the infinity speakers that replaced the crappy factory ones.

So, spitballing, could I cut one of the leads - white/black where the green marks are, splice in RCA for each side? And keep the rear speakers?




I just did this to my '21 a few weeks ago. All I used was an amp with high level inputs (Alpine S-A60M) I don't care for rear fill so I just removed the rear speakers and used the Metra speaker adapters @StangTime mentioned along with a couple RCA adapters from Amazon. I already had Forscan so I removed the bass roll off and it worked perfectly fine and added the much needed low end.
Cool, did some wheeling and dealing and ended up with a 12” W3 and that exact amp today off OfferUp ..

I have the forscan cable in my Amazon cart also, I want to figure out how to adjust the bass roll off also, and in preparation for doing the sync 3 conversion

Got any pointers or screenshot/numbers to change?

Ill admit , I’ve searched and read a bunch but havent played in it yet,,

61F4763C-494B-405F-B212-DDA6420E0C1E.jpeg
 

StangTime

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@Mustangfreek that will work but you don't have to cut the wires if you are using a tap connection. The bigger question is how will you reconnect the rear speakers without the plug in? I don't think they have an accessible connection point that you can hook up to. Trust me, the rear speakers are not worth the effort unless you plan to replace them.
 

yonson

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@StangTime cool. So I think those are the adpter dealios I was sent when I ordered and installed the infinity speakers that replaced the crappy factory ones.

So, spitballing, could I cut one of the leads - white/black where the green marks are, splice in RCA for each side? And keep the rear speakers?






Cool, did some wheeling and dealing and ended up with a 12” W3 and that exact amp today off OfferUp ..

I have the forscan cable in my Amazon cart also, I want to figure out how to adjust the bass roll off also, and in preparation for doing the sync 3 conversion

Got any pointers or screenshot/numbers to change?

Ill admit , I’ve searched and read a bunch but havent played in it yet,,

61F4763C-494B-405F-B212-DDA6420E0C1E.jpeg
I don't have any screenshots, but there are other threads that do, the setting you need to change is the ACM module code "727-01-02" to x0xx xx

What you are wanting to do with the adapter harness isn't going to work as the harness that plugs into the speaker is what would plug into the adapter. If you want to keep your rear speakers you would need to T Tap them etc...

I totally agree with @StangTime, the rear speakers aren't really worth keeping plus with them gone it will help the bass enter the cabin.
 

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Mustangfreek

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Ok.thanks fellas. I worded that wrong and might of been under the influence when I made that last post.

I see now..lol

Already bought and installed infinity speakers in door and rear deck. So I’d like to keep them hooked up.

Ended up with a 12” W3 I’m a nice ported box and the same amp mentioned above as yonson.
Havent looked at it for hooking up high pass etc..Never donea hook up like that.

Just need some Amp wire and t tap dealios and rca adapters, and a cable for forscan and sign up/pay for that?

Talking with Hextall about a sync 3 conversion right now also which leads me to thinking, which Is hurting about now.. Is there a way , is it better to hook up rcas somehow?
 
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Mustangfreek

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Cant I just t tap off one of those extra looms off the adapter? Where the red marks are?
 

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Seems like you're in a similar situation that I was in. I wanted to improve the sound but wasn't looking to win any bass competitions.

The alpine powered unit is small and compact and also has the ability to amp the other OEM channels.

I bought a DSP, the Apline, upgraded fronts and tweeters (powerbase) and rear (Hertz). I wanted some better speakers in the rear, the fronts the powerbase are a very economical upgrade over the factory trash and don't involve custom trim rings, etc.

Haven't installed everything as of yet,

I got:

Alpine Unit
dF02
DSR1
Powerbase 4 speaker OEM upgrade kit
Rear Hertz.
 
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Mustangfreek

Mustangfreek

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@Angrey
Talking over my head..lol

dsp?

Curious,What alpine head unit?

What did you use to mount it ?
 

Angrey

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@Angrey
Talking over my head..lol

dsp?

Curious,What alpine head unit?

What did you use to mount it ?
Alpine 8" Under-Glove Box Subwoofer+Amplifier For 2015-2019 Ford Mustang Base/GT 793276242655 | eBay

It looks like Alpine is making a similar upgraded unit with DSP (digital sound processing) included but it's out of stock (and more expensive).

The DSP is more so some guru can "tune" my system and optimize everything afterward.

It mounts up under the passenger side dash. It's only an 8" but being in front I don't need a massive 10 rattling my teeth from the rear. And I wanted to keep the weight down as much as possible. I'd prefer the weight in the rear, but this is pretty compact for an amp (to power both sub AND 4 channels, so all my factory channels, I only have the 6 speaker system).
 

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Mustangfreek

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Ok. Thanks for that.

Next Question

Good Amp kit, or just power, ground and short rca’s ?

Also, what’s the best/easiest way to route the power wire? I thought I read to stay on drivers side? Idk. Lol.help again ;)
 

yonson

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Easiest way (and probably cheapest) is to get a kit. I prefer OFC by knukonceptz. You want to run the power down the side the battery is on. I pulled my battery out and drilled under the A/C inlet vs. pulling the well liner out and cutting the grommet. There's a few good videos on youtube showing where you can route everything.
 

pt's21

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I used an AudioControl LC2i 2-channel signal converter and tapped into the rear speaker wires below the packing shelf (within trunk). The LC2i has a feature that turns on itself and passes 12v to your amp's remote On when the LC2i receives audio signal on the speaker wires. So, no need to find a switched 12v wire to turn the amp on.

I have -
AudioControl LC2i
Skar 8" dual coil sub,
Skar vented box for 8" sub
Skar RP800-1D 2 channel amp (800w RMS)

I strapped the box down with 2 cargo rings bolted to trunk floor and a ratchet strap.

Pictured below while removing rear seats and installing a CoverKing rear seat delete.
Skar.jpg

For anyone interested, below is the seat delete mostly installed.
r_seat.jpg
 
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yonson

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I have the CM Components RSD.
RSD.jpg

I used 3mm stainless straight brackets to bolt the box to the vehicle using the factory lower seat bracket points. This is the old amp which has now been removed. I've got some Kilmat left over from doing the doors so I'm going to patch up some areas that were left clean.
Alpine.jpg
 

pt's21

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I have the CM Components RSD.

used 3mm stainless straight brackets to bolt the box to the vehicle using the factory lower seat bracket points. This is the old amp which has now been removed. I've got some Kilmat left over from doing the doors so I'm going to patch up some areas that were left clean.
WOW ! Nice !
Afraid I didn't put that kind of time, effort, or dollars into mine.
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