shimmy after acceleration

[Nerass]

during a heavy/hard acceleration the car wants to go kind of right, then when I left off the gas it kind of pulls left.. hard to explain.. attached is my current alignment specs

noticed it after my rear was taken down for a bushing replacement, took it for an alignment and they clocked my bushings just to be sure, issue still persisted. took it to my local ford dealer and paid for an alignment, issue is still there. I don't think it would be a loose bolt/control arm bolt if I had ford look at it, right?

suspension setup is as follows..
bmr drag front and rear (bmr sp086 ? )
Viking warrior shocks
bmr cradle lockout ( cb005 )
bmr delrin vertical links (tc046?)
bmr adjustable delrin motor mounts ( lowered all the way )

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[BmacIL]

Had this problem with bad tires. You also have kind of a lot of rear toe and a ton of rear camber for street use. Those can make little things much more sensitive. Get that camber to -1-1.5 deg and toe to around 0.10 deg per side, obviously even on both sides.

 

[Nerass]

I had nitto 555 (or g2 whatever it is now..) on the front ( 255 35 20 ) -- I was running this for a while up front with my bridgestone potenzas and had no issues. after I got my car back from the repair for the bushing I thought my potenzas were shot -- so I picked up some continental dws and it drove the same way.

do you think id be able to fix that rear camber/toe without getting different camber arms/bolts?

 

[Nerass]

also, do you think the left and right side being off so much from one another could be a result of the rear possibly not being aligned properly?

 

[BmacIL]

I had nitto 555 (or g2 whatever it is now..) on the front ( 255 35 20 ) -- I was running this for a while up front with my bridgestone potenzas and had no issues. after I got my car back from the repair for the bushing I thought my potenzas were shot -- so I picked up some continental dws and it drove the same way.

do you think id be able to fix that rear camber/toe without getting different camber arms/bolts?

You should be able to get it in spec without any other parts. The rear springs didn't drop it that much.

 

[Nerass]

not too low?

 

[BmacIL]

not too low?

No you'll be able to just fine.

 

[Nerass]

cool, any way of adjusting in the driveway so I can see if any small adjustment makes it better? I'm trying to ADD camber; correct?

 

[BmacIL]

cool, any way of adjusting in the driveway so I can see if any small adjustment makes it better? I'm trying to ADD camber; correct?

The camber adjustment slot is at the inner point where it connects to the subframe (lateral link in the picture below). It's possible to, but challenging to get to when not on a lift or with wheels off. You would want to push it outboard on both sides (probably about as far as it goes to get the camber you're looking for). Unfortunately, camber and toe will change together some, which is why it's advisable to do it on an alignment rack.

 

[Nerass]

thanks man, you're always the first one on the suspension threads I appreciate it

 

[NightmareMoon]

That is a lot of negative camber in the rear. You're looking for less negative camber (i.e. more vertical camber, or add camber in the positive direction, which is outboard on the top of the wheel).

When I had a similar issue recently, one of my rear wheel bearings was shot. Check those wheel bearings on all 4 corners too (jack up that corner, and see if you can pull/push the wheel hard to get it to move.)

 

[BmacIL]

That is a lot of negative camber in the rear. You're looking for less negative camber (i.e. more vertical camber, or add camber in the positive direction, which is outboard on the top of the wheel).

When I had a similar issue recently, one of my rear wheel bearings was shot. Check those wheel bearings on all 4 corners too (jack up that corner, and see if you can pull/push the wheel hard to get it to move.)

Yes, another thing to look at. I've had similar issues with tires that went bad in storage (sidewall or belt deformation of some sort), that being the only change.

In this case I'm guessing it's related to the very high rear camber combined with relatively high total rear toe that isn't quite symmetric, albeit not too bad.

 

[Nerass]

I think this happened when I tried to clock the bushings myself. I let the weight of the car down on it when everything was loose and probably resulted in this... that being said, I think it was less on the adjustment bolt on the inside, and more of the one that connects to the spindle

thanks guys!

 

[BmacIL]

I think this happened when I tried to clock the bushings myself. I let the weight of the car down on it when everything was loose and probably resulted in this... that being said, I think it was less on the adjustment bolt on the inside, and more of the one that connects to the spindle

thanks guys!

This very well could be. You need to clock them with weight on the suspension when loosening and re-torquing, with a jounce to get them to reset after being loosened.

 

[Nerass]

camber adjustment went well, toe is definitely weird now but atleast I know I'm headed in the right direction..

it seems the drivers side rear is pointing inward and the passenger side may be pointing outward.. so they're like / maybe.. i'm not sure but again thank you for the assistance!

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