Shifter sticking in gear at 0 mph

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This is clutch related for sure. As mentioned, when there is slight load on the trans, the shifter will have resistance if the clutch is not fully disengaging. Could be mechanical, or something as simple as air in the hydraulics?
If it was air in the line, wouldn't it have found it's way out in the month or so I've had the clutch installed?

 

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put the rear of the car on jack stands/tires off the ground. Put it in gear, clutch all the way in. Touch the brakes one time just to make sure tires are stopped. Let off the brakes, if the rear tire(s) move at all, clutch is not disengaging.

Likely just a tolerance issue with the friction plates or flywheel. couple of thousandths can make a difference. Or as noted you could have a hydraulic issue such as air in the line or clutch feed line swelling/bulging and not giving full pressure for you. Its not likely air wouldn't have worked itself out at this point, but its probably just a likely as the chance Mcleod screwed the pooch on their machining, IMO
 
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put the rear of the car on jack stands/tires off the ground. Put it in gear, clutch all the way in. Touch the brakes one time just to make sure tires are stopped. Let off the brakes, if the rear tire(s) move at all, clutch is not disengaging.

Likely just a tolerance issue with the friction plates or flywheel. couple of thousandths can make a difference. Or as noted you could have a hydraulic issue such as air in the line or clutch feed line swelling/bulging and not giving full pressure for you. Its not likely air wouldn't have worked itself out at this point, but its probably just a likely as the chance Mcleod screwed the pooch on their machining, IMO
The weird thing is that it's very inconsistent. Sometimes it will go into gear like butter but other times I'll have this issue. So if I do the test you're suggesting, the issue may not be replicated. What do you think?
 

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Still worth doing, if tires do move it confirms it. You can do it a bunch of times while rear is off the ground.
 

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The clutch is too stiff for the slave to fully disengage the clutch fingers. That is my guess.
 


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The clutch is too stiff for the slave to fully disengage the clutch fingers. That is my guess.
But if that were the case, wouldn't this be happening to more cars with the RST? Mcleod says they've never seen it.
 

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But if that were the case, wouldn't this be happening to more cars with the RST? Mcleod says they've never seen it.
It could be that your slave is damaged or air in the hydraulic fluid. Whatever the case, the symptoms your having is that of a non properly functioning slave cylinder.
 
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It could be that your slave is damaged or air in the hydraulic fluid. Whatever the case, the symptoms your having is that of a non properly functioning slave cylinder.
I'm almost positive we put in a new stock slave cylinder. I'll find out in the morning because I don't remember.

So you think the new stock slave is failing? Let's hope it's that easy lol. I can't imagine everyone with these clutches is putting in an aftermarket slave cylinder since the price difference is so drastic. Could just be a one off issue.
 

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I'm almost positive we put in a new stock slave cylinder. I'll find out in the morning because I don't remember.

So you think the new stock slave is failing? Let's hope it's that easy lol. I can't imagine everyone with these clutches is putting in an aftermarket slave cylinder since the price difference is so drastic. Could just be a one off issue.
If they did put a new slave cylinder in I would make sure that it's at least a motorcraft oe part or like you said maybe you will need a high performance slave. But most definitely my money is on the slave or fluid.
 
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If they did put a new slave cylinder in I would make sure that it's at least a motorcraft oe part or like you said maybe you will need a high performance slave. But most definitely my money is on the slave or fluid.
I'm sure it's the OEM Ford slave cylinder and I'm almost certain it was a brand new one we got at the dealership. I just checked the fluid and it's super full. Almost to the cap.

Seems like the next step is to pull it out and inspect everything.

Seems like its difficult to go from neutral into 1st from traffic lights now. Same rate of occurrence as the opposite shift.
 

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I'm sure it's the OEM Ford slave cylinder and I'm almost certain it was a brand new one we got at the dealership. I just checked the fluid and it's super full. Almost to the cap.

Seems like the next step is to pull it out and inspect everything.

Seems like its difficult to go from neutral into 1st from traffic lights now. Same rate of occurrence as the opposite shift.
If you are sure that the slave is new and a motorcraft i would start by bleeding the slave cylinder first, and drive it around. Then if it is still not shifting easily i would remove the ss line and replace stock line and bleed and drive.
 
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If you are sure that the slave is new and a motorcraft i would start by bleeding the slave cylinder first, and drive it around. Then if it is still not shifting easily i would remove the ss line and replace stock line and bleed and drive.
Confirmed it's a brand new OEM slave cylinder this morning.

If it were the slave cylinder, wouldn't I notice a difference in pedal feel at times? Since my first drive with the new clutch, the pedal feel hasn't changed at all.
 

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You are correct, you are going to have to pull the clutch to inspect. McLeod gave me a few things for the shop to check on the clutch to aid in troubleshooting the issue, give them a call about it. For me, I never got that far as the problem was obvious once I had it pulled out and I took to clutch home to inspect myself. A simple straight edge and feeler gauges was all it took.

Yours being new is odd, it almost sounds like the front friction disc was installed backwards. If you watch the install video on CJ Pony, you will see how they assemble the first part and spin the disc with the alignment tool to ensure there is no resistance.
 
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You are correct, you are going to have to pull the clutch to inspect. McLeod gave me a few things for the shop to check on the clutch to aid in troubleshooting the issue, give them a call about it. For me, I never got that far as the problem was obvious once I had it pulled out and I took to clutch home to inspect myself. A simple straight edge and feeler gauges was all it took.

Yours being new is odd, it almost sounds like the front friction disc was installed backwards. If you watch the install video on CJ Pony, you will see how they assemble the first part and spin the disc with the alignment tool to ensure there is no resistance.
I called Mcleod and they didn't even try to give me troubleshooting tips. They straight up asked me to send it in and file an RMA.

The guy that installed the clutch has done a LOT of these clutches. I'm strongly doubting install error, but no one is perfect.

I'm replacing the clutch with a Mantic 9000. I'm gonna RMA the Mcleod RST and have them send it back to me once they're sure it's perfect so I can sell it.
 

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Did McLeod say what was wrong with the clutch? Did you follow thru with the Mantic and, if so, how is it holding up?
 

 
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