Sham_POW's GT/Autocross build.

[Sham_POW]

Hi everyone!

Winter is here, and that means no more autocross events in my area for a little while. It also means that a lot of the mountain roads that my wife and I love to drive and film are a bit too cold or crowded (also a senior kitty that we can't be away from for very long). So, it's time to start making some upgrades.

Ultimately, I don't want to turn this car into something that isn't comfortable on a 500 mile road trip just for a few more tenths on the track. I like my heated/ventilated seats! This also means that I'll be leaving a bit of performance on the table in the name of NVH. I'll be running in the CAM-C class, and ultimately I just want a car fast enough to catch drivers with better-prepped cars if they make a mistake or have a few bad runs.

Anyways, here's what I'm starting with...

202 Mustang GT Premium - Magnetic Metallic
Performance Pack 1
A10
Magneride
Active Exhaust
Safe & Smart
B&O sound system.

So far, the only thing that's been done is a resonator delete with a Steeda X-Pipe. You can hear a sample of that here.

So, what's coming over the winter?
OP Mustang extended wheel studs
25mm slip-on wheel spacers for the front (OP Mustang, if the ever re-supply)
19x11 SVE SP2 wheels in bronze from LMR
305/30/19 BFG Rival S 1.5 tires. I know the RE71-R is arguably better, but it's going away soon.
Steeda Stop-the-Hop - Enthusiast kit

• 555-5754 - Steeda IRS Subframe Support Braces
• 555-4437 - Steeda IRS Subframe Bushing Support System
• 555-4438 - Steeda IRS Subframe Alignment Kit
• 555-4117 - Steeda S550 Mustang Rear Lower Control Arm Spherical Bearings

Steeda adjustable front sway bar and endlinks.
Steeda ultralight jacking rails.
Camber bolts.

I may leave it here for a while, so that I can run a few events and see how it feels. After this will be springs, camber plates, and any other assorted suspension bits I think I can do without sacrificing too much ride quality. I'll likely end up doing a rear seat delete and change out the rear seat belt receptacles so I can run a Schroth quick-fit harness if they haven't come out with one for 2018+ cars.

Power-wise, I don't plan on going FI. Too much weight in the front already. Next year I plan on intake, headers (with a ceramic coating for heat), possibly a different cat-back (for some more weight savings), and a tune.

You can find me on instagram (@moderngtlife) and youtube (Modern GT Life) if you'd like to follow along. I have some ideas for fun content, but I'm a bit camera shy. Working on that.

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[kz]

You may want to do sprints (not a huge selection available for Magneride cars) and camber plates instead of bolts. Car is way undersprung for autocross and plates give you much wider camber adjustment than bolts.

 

[Sham_POW]

You may want to do sprints (not a huge selection available for Magneride cars) and camber plates instead of bolts. Car is way undersprung for autocross and plates give you much wider camber adjustment than bolts.

That's the plan. I'm still debating on which particular ones I'll end up with. Just doing bolts first to at least get SOME camber while I get used to the IRS stiffening.

 

[kz]

I meant springs of course above - sorry - was typing on the phone and it corrected it.

 

[TeeLew]

I don't have a build thread, but if you want to kick around some CAM-C ideas, I'm pretty deep into it. The CAM-C thread on the track subforum has a lot of good info.

 

[Sham_POW]

I don't have a build thread, but if you want to kick around some CAM-C ideas, I'm pretty deep into it. The CAM-C thread on the track subforum has a lot of good info.

Oh, I've already read through that one many times over, and I'm looking forward to hearing how that DSC controller works out for you. ;)

 

[Sham_POW]

Got the tires mounted and balanced. Now I just need to get the extended wheel studs installed in the next couple of weeks.

LMR SVE SP2 - 19x11 +50 offset.
Falken Azenis RT660 305/30ZR19.

 

[TeeLew]

Get this : https://www.tooldiscounter.com/prod...JUyBYeE_HAK5h1OH-9edHDQRdYzOyUYhoCgy8QAvD_BwE

And these:

Front, especially if using spacers: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-7733/make/ford/model/mustang

Rear and/or no spacers: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-7732/make/ford/model/mustang

You'll need a good sized hammer (a 5# maul works nicely) to knock the stock ones out & it's best to have some sort of impact wrench (rechargeable works) to install the new ones.

Get the hubs off the car to do it. It's a relatively easy one. You can probably do the whole job in 3 beers.

 

[Sham_POW]

Get this : https://www.tooldiscounter.com/prod...JUyBYeE_HAK5h1OH-9edHDQRdYzOyUYhoCgy8QAvD_BwE

And these:

Front, especially if using spacers: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-7733/make/ford/model/mustang

Rear and/or no spacers: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-7732/make/ford/model/mustang

You'll need a good sized hammer (a 5# maul works nicely) to knock the stock ones out & it's best to have some sort of impact wrench (rechargeable works) to install the new ones.

Get the hubs off the car to do it. It's a relatively easy one. You can probably do the whole job in 3 beers.

I ended up going with the studs and spacers from OP mustang, and I'm going to try the ball-joint separator method first before I resort to the BFH. I know the wheel bearings can handle it, but I wanted to give this way a try first.

 

[TeeLew]

I ended up going with the studs and spacers from OP mustang, and I'm going to try the ball-joint separator method first before I resort to the BFH. I know the wheel bearings can handle it, but I wanted to give this way a try first.

If you take the hubs off the car, you can support the hub itself on a vice. None of the hammer force is going through the bearing. That would be a huge no - no for me.

 

[Brian@BMVK]

If you want to retain your magneride dampers, I would look at getting some GT350R or better yet, GT500 CFTP springs, and DEFINITELY camber plates, not bolts. You will not get enough front camber from bolts and you'll need that clearance for your front wheels. You can't add that much at the spindle without getting rubbing with the 19x11 setup. I would not even bother.

Long-term, DSC coilovers are available.

 

[EFI]

Next year I plan on intake, headers (with a ceramic coating for heat), possibly a different cat-back (for some more weight savings), and a tune.

How much experience do you have in these types of events? With this car?

I ask because it's seems you're throwing alot of money at the car for seemingly no reason other than what you either read or heard about the car. Even more so the point that you're thinking of adding power. Power is generally one of the last things to do (well after seat time, tires, brakes, suspension etc), especially on a powerful car as the GT. It's not like some gutless Miata or BRZ. Also, given the fact that you're doing autocross only events, it's seems even more odd to add power to something you will barely if ever need in those events. The car has way to much power to begin with for parking lot speeds, not sure how adding a bunch more is going to really help.

 

[kz]

or better yet, GT500 CFTP springs

Are those available ? What are the spring rates ?

Btw - DSC coilovers is (supposedly) much lighter setup than OEM Magneride.

Another note for OP - active exhaust with H-pipe (would imaging X-pipe as well) would blow sound at SCCA National events in Track mode - sometimes, since it highly erratic process.

 

[Brian@BMVK]

Are those available ? What are the spring rates ?

Btw - DSC coilovers is (supposedly) much lighter setup than OEM Magneride.

Another note for OP - active exhaust with H-pipe (would imaging X-pipe as well) would blow sound at SCCA National events in Track mode - sometimes, since it highly erratic process.

I believe I saw on the spec sheet that they are 265 lb/in for the fronts, and something around 960 rear, but I will double check. Either way, much better for autocross than OEM GT PP Magneride springs.

 

[Sham_POW]

How much experience do you have in these types of events? With this car?

I ask because it's seems you're throwing alot of money at the car for seemingly no reason other than what you either read or heard about the car. Even more so the point that you're thinking of adding power. Power is generally one of the last things to do (well after seat time, tires, brakes, suspension etc), especially on a powerful car as the GT. It's not like some gutless Miata or BRZ. Also, given the fact that you're doing autocross only events, it's seems even more odd to add power to something you will barely if ever need in those events. The car has way to much power to begin with for parking lot speeds, not sure how adding a bunch more is going to really help.

Experience? Some. With this platform? Just my handful of events last year.

I'm not completely sure how to respond to the second part. If I just wanted to spend money and add power I'd throw a whipple on and call it a day. Hell, I could take the N/A route even further with a TB and a manifold, but I'm not going to. Those mods you pointed out are intended to add power, sure. But they also have some other benefits like reducing some weight and/or helping to mitigate some underhood heat. And they are also a long way out. Plans may change, and this season is all about mild suspension changes and seat time.

My local autocross venue is at a drag strip. It's MASSIVE. Even the fastest cars/drivers rarely put down raw times less than 60 seconds. Power helps here.

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