MandoGt350R
Well-Known Member
Got it, thanks Stang. For sure I’m getting the TWK and FO3 harness. And the best way to do it would be the 3 way active with 6 channel amp with mono. But, is the second option one 6 channel amp viable? 2 channels for the mids and 2 channels to a component bass and tweeters and bridge the last 2 channels for the sub? I’m sure it is not as efficient but is it a reasonable method that sounds great? Sorry, I’m just covering all options.The DSR1 and the Twk will both get the job done but the TwK will do it better.
DSR1: Advantage = Less expensive, chimes and warnings through stereo system (like OEM)
Disadvantage = Reports of firmware update problems and randomly losing settings.
Twk: Advantage = More flexible and more reliable than DSR1
Disadvantage = More expensive, chimes and warnings will sound from the gauge cluster area, not through the stereo speakers.
The FO3 harness has all the right connectors if your amp looks like this:
For a 3-way all active system you need at least a 6 channel amp and a second amp mono (or bridged stereo) amp for your sub(s). You will run new wires for your tweeters and use the factory wiring in the doors for mids and mid-bass.
Metra speaker connectors and adapters are good. You will need a spacer for the mid-bass or cut-up the OEM speakers and take the cones out. Leaving the connectors you wouldn't need the Metra plugs. Now mind your space behind the door panel. If you use something like a Hertz 6.5 mid-bass, they will hit the door panel with any spacer height over 1/2" thick. Just be aware and measure, check, and measure and check again. You don't want the cone excursion to go beyond the OEM height.
Sponsored