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Shaker vs. B&O system. How do they compare? Worth the money?

m3incorp

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Unless the 350R is has a different B&O setup than the other S550s, the amp is located in the drivers side footwell. There is nothing behind the stock subwoofer enclosure in the trunk.

Ok I think I found out that the one amp it has is a 9 channel 1000 watts? And is located behind the woofer enclosure.
 

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Unless the 350R is has a different B&O setup than the other S550s, the amp is located in the drivers side footwell. There is nothing behind the stock subwoofer enclosure in the trunk.
Yes, you are correct. Turns out I was misinformed.

Here is what I'm thinking:
Kenwood Excelon P-XR600-6DSP with Maestro AR interface
iDatalink HRN-AR-FO2 Harness vehicle specific.
Run the tweeters on one channel each(2), mids and bass on one channel(2) and the rears on the last channel(2) = 6. Run a mono amp for the Kicker 8 inch woofer replacement I'm looking at. I'm replacing the 6 in the front doors and disconnecting the center. Leaving the stock B&O's in the rear. Any suggestions on what brand and types for the front doors? I'm leaning Infinity.
 

StangTime

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Yes, you are correct. Turns out I was misinformed.

Here is what I'm thinking:
Kenwood Excelon P-XR600-6DSP with Maestro AR interface
iDatalink HRN-AR-FO2 Harness vehicle specific.
Run the tweeters on one channel each(2), mids and bass on one channel(2) and the rears on the last channel(2) = 6. Run a mono amp for the Kicker 8 inch woofer replacement I'm looking at. I'm replacing the 6 in the front doors and disconnecting the center. Leaving the stock B&O's in the rear. Any suggestions on what brand and types for the front doors? I'm leaning Infinity.
If you are using the original speaker wiring, you can't run the mids and mid-bass drivers on the same channels because the mids and tweeters are wired in parallel. Not to mention, you shouldn't do this even if you did rewire. Normally you would pair the mids and tweeters together with a passive crossover (band-pass for mids & high-pass for tweeters) and run the mid-bass with a low-pass separately. Now, lots of people are still hung up with the idea that they must use the rear speakers because they are there. Rear speakers will degrade your sound quality and draw the sound towards the back (plus the OEM speakers sound like dog shit). Since you have a 6 channel DSP here are a couple ways you could configure your car:

Run tweeters, mids, and mid bass all on separate channels. Forget about rear. This will get you the best sound quality. You will need to run new wires for your tweeters to do this.

Run tweeters and mids on passive crossovers (2 ch), mid-bass (2 ch), rear (2 ch). This is not as good as it won't allow you to do time alignment and EQ for each driver. But will play a bit louder due to the rear speakers.

Your car has a subwoofer, there IS an amp attached to the back of the sub enclosure. There are low level signal lines running from the front DSP amp to the subwoofer amp. You should be able to use this harness to feed your new amp/sub woofer setup using the line-out on the Kenwood. (Not sure how the Kenwood functions though)

On my car I ditched the mid ranges, rear, and center channels, for a quality 2-way Hertz component system, 5 channel amp and 8 channel DSP. Again rear speakers not required unless you are only interested loudness over quality.

The Mustang/ GT350 audio systems are not easy to upgrade and I know people that have tried to do it cheaper and ended up ripping it all out and starting over with better components. If you can swing some extra money (buy once, cry once) I would go with a Maestro HRN-AR-FO3 harness to a JL TwK88 or Helix DSP and any kind or number of amps you need. Ultimate flexibility and infinitely adjustable. Plus you get a bass control knob with the TwK.
 

m3incorp

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Stang, I agree mostly with what you posted. You are right that many people get hung up with the rear speakers. I will say that a good quality rear speaker can be worth it, depending on what you listen to and how you have your system tuned......I've heard many say the surround mode is never used, but I've run across a few audio tracks where the entire surround stage is used, and actually sounds pretty good.

The OP has the B&O system. The amp for the subwoofer is part of the amp/dsp in the front footwell. The Shaker systems have the amp mounted in the rear. (If you would like to see what is behind the B&O subwoofer enclosure, I'll gladly snap a pic, or I probably have some from where I initially replaced the B&O Sub with a JL Audio Sub, before moving to an aftermarket enclosure.) Heck, who knows....maybe the Canadian market cars still came with the Shaker system or some other version of the B&O.

You can use the line outputs that go to the B&O Subwoofer to drive an external amp for aftermarket subwoofers.

I also agree that the S550 platform is not fun to work with audio-wise.


If you are using the original speaker wiring, you can't run the mids and mid-bass drivers on the same channels because the mids and tweeters are wired in parallel. Not to mention, you shouldn't do this even if you did rewire. Normally you would pair the mids and tweeters together with a passive crossover (band-pass for mids & high-pass for tweeters) and run the mid-bass with a low-pass separately. Now, lots of people are still hung up with the idea that they must use the rear speakers because they are there. Rear speakers will degrade your sound quality and draw the sound towards the back (plus the OEM speakers sound like dog shit). Since you have a 6 channel DSP here are a couple ways you could configure your car:

Run tweeters, mids, and mid bass all on separate channels. Forget about rear. This will get you the best sound quality. You will need to run new wires for your tweeters to do this.

Run tweeters and mids on passive crossovers (2 ch), mid-bass (2 ch), rear (2 ch). This is not as good as it won't allow you to do time alignment and EQ for each driver. But will play a bit louder due to the rear speakers.

Your car has a subwoofer, there IS an amp attached to the back of the sub enclosure. There are low level signal lines running from the front DSP amp to the subwoofer amp. You should be able to use this harness to feed your new amp/sub woofer setup using the line-out on the Kenwood. (Not sure how the Kenwood functions though)

On my car I ditched the mid ranges, rear, and center channels, for a quality 2-way Hertz component system, 5 channel amp and 8 channel DSP. Again rear speakers not required unless you are only interested loudness over quality.

The Mustang/ GT350 audio systems are not easy to upgrade and I know people that have tried to do it cheaper and ended up ripping it all out and starting over with better components. If you can swing some extra money (buy once, cry once) I would go with a Maestro HRN-AR-FO3 harness to a JL TwK88 or Helix DSP and any kind or number of amps you need. Ultimate flexibility and infinitely adjustable. Plus you get a bass control knob with the TwK.
 

StangTime

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I wasn't aware, SUB amplification on the B&O was in the kickpanel. I was sure the sub had the amp mounted to the enclosure in the trunk, but hey... I stand corrected. :like:

You can do surround rear fill with some DSP's and create an ambiance channel by subtracting all mono info from the L and R signals. This can add some fake surround with added delay. But for me, stuff like that is not worth the hassle or cost.
 

MandoGt350R

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I wasn't aware, SUB amplification on the B&O was in the kickpanel. I was sure the sub had the amp mounted to the enclosure in the trunk, but hey... I stand corrected. :like:

You can do surround rear fill with some DSP's and create an ambiance channel by subtracting all mono info from the L and R signals. This can add some fake surround with added delay. But for me, stuff like that is not worth the hassle or cost.
Ok Stang I like your first option suggestion. Run the 6 channel to the 6 speakers in the front. Each having their own channel. Bypassing the center an rear speakers. And running a mono for the sub by itself.
If you are using the original speaker wiring, you can't run the mids and mid-bass drivers on the same channels because the mids and tweeters are wired in parallel. Not to mention, you shouldn't do this even if you did rewire. Normally you would pair the mids and tweeters together with a passive crossover (band-pass for mids & high-pass for tweeters) and run the mid-bass with a low-pass separately. Now, lots of people are still hung up with the idea that they must use the rear speakers because they are there. Rear speakers will degrade your sound quality and draw the sound towards the back (plus the OEM speakers sound like dog shit). Since you have a 6 channel DSP here are a couple ways you could configure your car:

Run tweeters, mids, and mid bass all on separate channels. Forget about rear. This will get you the best sound quality. You will need to run new wires for your tweeters to do this.

Run tweeters and mids on passive crossovers (2 ch), mid-bass (2 ch), rear (2 ch). This is not as good as it won't allow you to do time alignment and EQ for each driver. But will play a bit louder due to the rear speakers.

Your car has a subwoofer, there IS an amp attached to the back of the sub enclosure. There are low level signal lines running from the front DSP amp to the subwoofer amp. You should be able to use this harness to feed your new amp/sub woofer setup using the line-out on the Kenwood. (Not sure how the Kenwood functions though)

On my car I ditched the mid ranges, rear, and center channels, for a quality 2-way Hertz component system, 5 channel amp and 8 channel DSP. Again rear speakers not required unless you are only interested loudness over quality.

The Mustang/ GT350 audio systems are not easy to upgrade and I know people that have tried to do it cheaper and ended up ripping it all out and starting over with better components. If you can swing some extra money (buy once, cry once) I would go with a Maestro HRN-AR-FO3 harness to a JL TwK88 or Helix DSP and any kind or number of amps you need. Ultimate flexibility and infinitely adjustable. Plus you get a bass control knob with the TwK.
Ok Stang I like your first option suggestion. Run the 6 channel to the 6 speakers in the front. Each having their own channel. Bypassing the center and rear speakers. And running a mono for the sub by itself. I want to go with this amp combo:
Alpine R-A90S and Rockford Fosgate Punch P300X1. with front speakers I have yet to decide on.
Now, which of these products do I need to work with these 2 amps? :
Rockford Fosgate DSR1
AudioControl 6XS
iDatalink HRN-AR-EXT4 Harness
and crutchfield suggests using the iDatalink HRN-AR-FO2 Harness but you mentioned the using HRN-AR-FO3 Harness earlier? Do I need anything else to make this work, am I forgetting something?
thanks Stang.
 

MandoGt350R

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and Stang tell me about the JL Audio TwK™ 88 System Tuning Processor. Is it like the audioControl 6XS? Does the same job?
 

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It’s weird my 18 GT is fully loaded There’s Not an option missing except the shaker system And I have always thought the 9 speaker system sounded great. I guess when you have a mustang, to me the only thing I really wanna or can hear is my full exhaust/headers system. That’s just me though. Lol
 

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StangTime

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Ok Stang I like your first option suggestion. Run the 6 channel to the 6 speakers in the front. Each having their own channel. Bypassing the center an rear speakers. And running a mono for the sub by itself.


Ok Stang I like your first option suggestion. Run the 6 channel to the 6 speakers in the front. Each having their own channel. Bypassing the center and rear speakers. And running a mono for the sub by itself. I want to go with this amp combo:
Alpine R-A90S and Rockford Fosgate Punch P300X1. with front speakers I have yet to decide on.
Now, which of these products do I need to work with these 2 amps? :
Rockford Fosgate DSR1
AudioControl 6XS
iDatalink HRN-AR-EXT4 Harness
and crutchfield suggests using the iDatalink HRN-AR-FO2 Harness but you mentioned the using HRN-AR-FO3 Harness earlier? Do I need anything else to make this work, am I forgetting something?
thanks Stang.
Sounds like a solid plan.
At a minimum you will only need the DSR1 and the HRN-AR-FO3 to connect the Alpine and Rockford amps.
The Audiocontrol 6XS is just an electronic crossover. You don't need it with the DSR1 as the DSR1 has electronic crossovers built in.
Not sure what the FO2 harness is. The connectors don't look right to me. Maybe this is for the base model stereo. You want the FO3 harness for the 9 or 12 speaker platform. The DSR1 or TwK can be mounted in the space occupied by the OEM amplifier. Take the amp off the mounting plate and attach the DSR1 or the TwK to the plate and you have a solid mount for it. Your chimes and warning sounds will play through the instrument panel if you go Twk. The DSR1 will retain playing chimes through the speakers (it's only advantage over TwK). You won't need the EXT4 extension harness in that case. Run 7 pairs of twisted interconnects back to your amps.

Another option if using the TwK. You can mount it in the trunk too and run just the Front Left and Right twisted pair signals from the FO3 harness to the back. Then use short RCA patch cords to connect your amps. This will save you some money on long runs of twisted pair interconnects.

and Stang tell me about the JL Audio TwK™ 88 System Tuning Processor. Is it like the audioControl 6XS? Does the same job?
The TwK and the 6XS are not in the same league. The 6XS is an electronic crossover nothing more. The TwK is a configurable electronic crossover/mixer, DSP (time alignment), and parametric EQ all in one box. If you are into sound quality and are willing to invest a little money (and a lot of time LOL) in a calibrated microphone, you can use a program called REW to allow you to see your frequency response and adjust to obtain a smooth curve. Like I said, I know at least 2 members on this forum that started with the DSR1 and returned it for the TwK.
You can download and play with the Tun software from JL audio: https://www.jlaudio.com/pages/discover-tun-jl-audio-s-dsp-tuning-software

I suggest doing some research on the DSR1 and learn about potential issues (like losing all it's settings). It can work but it also can be problematic. Whereas the TwK is a solid piece of hardware.

Edit: Just saw another post of yours in a different thread. You don't need a JL FIX82 if you use Forscan to remove the factory EQ curve from the head unit. The head unit can provide a flat frequency response up to 2.7V without any clipping with the volume dial cranked to full.
 
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StangTime

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It’s weird my 18 GT is fully loaded There’s Not an option missing except the shaker system And I have always thought the 9 speaker system sounded great. I guess when you have a mustang, to me the only thing I really wanna or can hear is my full exhaust/headers system. That’s just me though. Lol
It's a personal preference. I could never get the sound good enough and it just irritated me.
With an upgraded sound system, I can have great sound inside or I can roll the windows down and have great sound from outside.
 

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It’s ok. Not great. Bass is muddy and unnatural. Mids and highs are ok. B&O has a great reputation but I think they phoned this one in.....
Ford is just using the B&O name. Real B&O stereo systems are just re-branded Panasonic or something.

The B&O system in Mustangs is just an upgraded system. B&O probably have nothing to do with it, other than lending their name to it, for a price.
 

MandoGt350R

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Sounds like a solid plan.
At a minimum you will only need the DSR1 and the HRN-AR-FO3 to connect the Alpine and Rockford amps.
The Audiocontrol 6XS is just an electronic crossover. You don't need it with the DSR1 as the DSR1 has electronic crossovers built in.
Not sure what the FO2 harness is. The connectors don't look right to me. Maybe this is for the base model stereo. You want the FO3 harness for the 9 or 12 speaker platform. The DSR1 or TwK can be mounted in the space occupied by the OEM amplifier. Take the amp off the mounting plate and attach the DSR1 or the TwK to the plate and you have a solid mount for it. Your chimes and warning sounds will play through the instrument panel if you go Twk. The DSR1 will retain playing chimes through the speakers (it's only advantage over TwK). You won't need the EXT4 extension harness in that case. Run 7 pairs of twisted interconnects back to your amps.

Another option if using the TwK. You can mount it in the trunk too and run just the Front Left and Right twisted pair signals from the FO3 harness to the back. Then use short RCA patch cords to connect your amps. This will save you some money on long runs of twisted pair interconnects.


The TwK and the 6XS are not in the same league. The 6XS is an electronic crossover nothing more. The TwK is a configurable electronic crossover/mixer, DSP (time alignment), and parametric EQ all in one box. If you are into sound quality and are willing to invest a little money (and a lot of time LOL) in a calibrated microphone, you can use a program called REW to allow you to see your frequency response and adjust to obtain a smooth curve. Like I said, I know at least 2 members on this forum that started with the DSR1 and returned it for the TwK.
You can download and play with the Tun software from JL audio: https://www.jlaudio.com/pages/discover-tun-jl-audio-s-dsp-tuning-software

I suggest doing some research on the DSR1 and learn about potential issues (like losing all it's settings). It can work but it also can be problematic. Whereas the TwK is a solid piece of hardware.

Edit: Just saw another post of yours in a different thread. You don't need a JL FIX82 if you use Forscan to remove the factory EQ curve from the head unit. The head unit can provide a flat frequency response up to 2.7V without any clipping with the volume dial cranked to full.
Thanks Stang. So the DSR1 and Twk do the same thing as far as retaining the factory stuff? With the TWK being the better and more expensive option? So it’s either or? I don’t mind spending the extra bucks to get it right the first time and sounding awesome so I choose the TWK hands down. So just to recap before I pull the trigger on purchases. I need the FO3 harness, only the TWK, what ever door speakers I choose, and my 2 amps(and amp kits of course)? No ext4 extension.
p.s. when you say sounds coming from the instrument panel, and not the speakers that means from the kick panel area? And a last second option is you would also do one 6 channel amp running 2 channels on each door and one bridged channel for the sub? Run a component bass drive and tweeter channel and one channel for the mids?
 

MandoGt350R

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Oh yeah, and do I need any Metra speaker mounts?
 

BimmerDriver

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Oh thanks! I was just looking for that. Hahahaha, it's like disabling a bomb in a movie "Cut the red wire or the green wire??"
Dude, no. It's always the blue wire. Cut the blue wire.

Seriously, it's a bit more trouble, but just disconnect the speaker. It's a lot easier and better to plug it back in if it doesn't do what you expect, rather than splicing back some wires that may not have quite as much slack as you'd thought.

* - I was just making a joke, do not cut the blue wire unless you are defusing a bomb.
 

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Thanks Stang. So the DSR1 and Twk do the same thing as far as retaining the factory stuff? With the TWK being the better and more expensive option? So it’s either or? I don’t mind spending the extra bucks to get it right the first time and sounding awesome so I choose the TWK hands down. So just to recap before I pull the trigger on purchases. I need the FO3 harness, only the TWK, what ever door speakers I choose, and my 2 amps(and amp kits of course)? No ext4 extension.
p.s. when you say sounds coming from the instrument panel, and not the speakers that means from the kick panel area? And a last second option is you would also do one 6 channel amp running 2 channels on each door and one bridged channel for the sub? Run a component bass drive and tweeter channel and one channel for the mids?
The DSR1 and the Twk will both get the job done but the TwK will do it better.

DSR1: Advantage = Less expensive, chimes and warnings through stereo system (like OEM)
Disadvantage = Reports of firmware update problems and randomly losing settings.

Twk: Advantage = More flexible and more reliable than DSR1
Disadvantage = More expensive, chimes and warnings will sound from the gauge cluster area, not through the stereo speakers.

The FO3 harness has all the right connectors if your amp looks like this:
IMG_1252.JPG


For a 3-way all active system you need at least a 6 channel amp and a second amp mono (or bridged stereo) amp for your sub(s). You will run new wires for your tweeters and use the factory wiring in the doors for mids and mid-bass.

Metra speaker connectors and adapters are good. You will need a spacer for the mid-bass or cut-up the OEM speakers and take the cones out. Leaving the connectors you wouldn't need the Metra plugs. Now mind your space behind the door panel. If you use something like a Hertz 6.5 mid-bass, they will hit the door panel with any spacer height over 1/2" thick. Just be aware and measure, check, and measure and check again. You don't want the cone excursion to go beyond the OEM height.
 
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