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SCCA F-Street Setup. What's Everyone Done so Far?

DickR

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that chart may end up costing me a lot of money.
Racer Math: The sooner you trade the more your trade will be worth and you will beat next year's price increase.;)

Racer Math ignores the overall financial advantage of keeping a car for 10 years or more.:D
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DickR

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I did a very careful level floor camber check on my as delivered 2018 GTPP with MagneRide this morning using a "racing camber gauge" which uses bubble levels. The camber gauge measures from the wheel flange or from a straight edge which is positioned to avoid "bottom of tire bulge". All four corners are very close to -1.5 deg neg camber. F & R toe using toe plates and tape measures are both 0".

I've ordered the service bolts.
 

jdub.csu

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I did a very careful level floor camber check on my as delivered 2018 GTPP with MagneRide this morning using a "racing camber gauge" which uses bubble levels. The camber gauge measures from the wheel flange or from a straight edge which is positioned to avoid "bottom of tire bulge". All four corners are very close to -1.5 deg neg camber. F & R toe using toe plates and tape measures are both 0".

I've ordered the service bolts.
Pretty good the car we just had here for an initial alignment check before figuring out what to do about camber is only 1 degree
 

DickR

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Pretty good the car we just had here for an initial alignment check before figuring out what to do about camber is only 1 degree
18 GTPP with MagneRide?

FYI my 15 GTPP base as delivered front camber was about -1. Rear was about -1.5. I'm pleased to see the additional - 1/2 degree with the 18.

I weighed the car today with FULL tank and trunk junk using Intercomp scales but being an old guy completely forgot to take a picture. I did write the numbers down however. :doh:

GTPP with MagneRide, 10A, and 301A package plus Nav.

Total: 3875

LF: 1031 RF: 1093
LR: 899 RR: 852

My 2015 base GTPP weighed 3752 on the same scales with a FULL tank, trunk junk, etc. I have to see if I can find the detailed notes to see if this was with the oem wheels and tires or the slightly lighter Forgestars.
 

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jdub.csu

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18 GTPP with MagneRide?

FYI my 15 GTPP base as delivered front camber was about -1. Rear was about -1.5. I'm pleased to see the additional - 1/2 degree with the 18.

I weighed the car today with FULL tank and trunk junk using Intercomp scales but being an old guy completely forgot to take a picture. I did write the numbers down however. :doh:

GTPP with MagneRide, 10A, and 301A package plus Nav.

Total: 3875

LF: 1031 RF: 1093
LR: 899 RR: 852

My 2015 base GTPP weighed 3752 on the same scales with a FULL tank, trunk junk, etc. I have to see if I can find the detailed notes to see if this was with the oem wheels and tires or the slightly lighter Forgestars.
Our alignment was on a 2018 PP no magnaride and the toe was jacked up already. Haven’t weighed it yet.
 

destoups

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[MENTION=12865]DickR[/MENTION] Also no photo, but mine was just over 3,500 with minimal gas and no trunk junk, but on stock rims and snow tires. I'll guess 3,480 or so with the OZs and 285s -- about 30 pounds heavier than my 2015.
 

DickR

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[MENTION=12865]DickR[/MENTION] Also no photo, but mine was just over 3,500 with minimal gas and no trunk junk, but on stock rims and snow tires. I'll guess 3,480 or so with the OZs and 285s -- about 30 pounds heavier than my 2015.
Interesting that yours is only slightly heavier with the automatic. Still heavier than Mark's 2 L turbo Camaro, correct?

Question: How hard were the splined bolts to remove this time compared to 2015? Any tricks given that I failed to DIY mine in 2015?

Thanks!

Dick
 

destoups

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Oh yeah, about 300 pounds heavier (my 2.0T weighs 3,164!). IIRC in the Camaro the auto is a bit lighter than the manual! It may just be added technology, sound deadening, the new nose, etc.

After last go-round, I went to a pro for the alignment. Nothing more frustrating than to watch someone with an air tool do in 1 second what took an afternoon on the 2015.
 

DickR

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Oh yeah, about 300 pounds heavier (my 2.0T weighs 3,164!). IIRC in the Camaro the auto is a bit lighter than the manual! It may just be added technology, sound deadening, the new nose, etc.

After last go-round, I went to a pro for the alignment. Nothing more frustrating than to watch someone with an air tool do in 1 second what took an afternoon on the 2015.
Sounds like a plan. ;)
 

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Question: How hard were the splined bolts to remove this time compared to 2015? Any tricks given that I failed to DIY mine in 2015?
FWIW, on my '16 I found that taking a bit of tension off the lower arm allowed a couple of swings from a BFH to knock those out without air tools (and I have the air tools). I've done this three times now for various reasons and it works slick. The issue is getting the jack to put the right amount of pressure into the arm to release the tension; T&E but it works.
 

jdub.csu

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Use the nut and back it off until the end of the bolt and then use a big ass hammer and smack it a few times. Also if you can use a jack to release tension on the bolt it helps a ton! Air tools make it easier but you can do it yourself
 

DickR

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I did some autocross relevant testing of the 10A today.

1) As Des said with the shifter in S "automatic" the trans holds a gear for "awhile" after you lift from full or "heavy" throttle. I don't know if it will hold a gear long enough such that changing to manual mode won't be needed.

2) In S the trans can start in second just by using the upshift paddle. I tried 2nd gear starts in Track mode with whatever level of nannies are used in Track still on. In 45 degree weather wheel spin resulted.

3) Manual up and down shifts are FAST. The only shifting that seemed to be "slow" was when flooring the throttle at a low speed while in automatic mode when cruising in a high gear ratio. Realistically it probably is no slower than suddenly downshifting a manual from a high ratio to a low ratio or even down shifting one ratio in a manual.
 

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I did some autocross relevant testing of the 10A today.

3) Manual up and down shifts are FAST. The only shifting that seemed to be "slow" was when flooring the throttle at a low speed while in automatic mode when cruising in a high gear ratio. Realistically it probably is no slower than suddenly downshifting a manual from a high ratio to a low ratio or even down shifting one ratio in a manual.
Are they only 'firm' or are some of them 'harsh'? Or somewhere in between?

Would you even think of manually upshifting on corner exit on a wet track?


Norm
 

SteveW

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Des, your new car looks great out there on the Crows Practice Course! Nice and composed and quick, too.
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