Rotors and pads for daily driving and light track use?

Rodpwnz

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Hi Everyone,

I've been noticing some minor issues with braking since my last track day - I believe I have some glazing and cracking going on with my rotors. The car has stock PP1 pads and rotors with 37K miles and I daily drive it with 3-4 track days a year on these pads/rotors. I'm wondering what my best options are moving forward without this happening again.

So far I've seen talk of people who want either street only pads or track only pads, and not much on anything else besides our stock ferodo DS2500 that is good for dual duty light track days and DD. I consider myself a light track day weekend warrior...this is pretty decent after 37K miles of aggressive street and light track duty right? or am I no longer in casual/light track day territory? I've never felt any brake fade or smelled burning brakes until my last track event.

I've read threads here about G-Loc, Powerstop, EBC, Hawk and Carbotech pads and my head is spinning because I don't know which one would be best for my use case. Thinking of sticking with stock PP1 rotors and brakes again, or maybe some quality slotted rotors. Obviously less brake dust would be nice but I'd like to at the very least maintain the same performance of the stock/DS2500, or better. Would you guys mind sharing your experiences and advice for me in regards to pads and rotors? Thanks!

I'll be visiting a local shop tomorrow to get them inspected, but here are some pictures of my rotors:

Front Right rotor:
Close up front right Rotor.jpeg


Front left rotor:
Close up front left rotor.jpeg


Back right rotor:
close up back right rotor.jpeg

 

NightmareMoon

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What issues have you noticed? You mention issues and then say you've never felt any brake fade or smelled burning brakes. Is it just the rotors looking worse for wear?
 

DrZed

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This same thing happened to me after two track days this year ('21 PP1). You can feel the brake pedal has no "bite" to it on the street anymore, once the pads are glazed.

For this year I am looking at the same options a rotor friendly track pad that does not need the rotor changed. So far Ferodo DS1-11 seems to be the best choice for this application, and then your choice of street pad (I use Power Stop Z16 ceramic low dust for daily $65 from rock auto!).

Pagid seems to be the gold standard, and apparently there are ways to use them with one set of rotors as well, as the brake pad material adheres to the rotor and this is why all the talk of two sets.

As you know changing the fronts out are super easy, and I have learned NOT to use aftermarket hardware kits that come with the new pads they simply don't fit well, get a second set of hardware (the two pins and metal hold down bracket).

For the rear, this is more complicated. I found the pads glazed with the traction control/stability on and in track mode as the brakes were overheating with consistent intervention. Either turn stability off completely, or look at a race pad that can handle the heat and won't screech or be useless on the street. I've reached out to G-loc for some advice on this, and will plan on running this track pad on the rear only all the time. The other issue is that the dust boots on the rear caliper is so fragile I ended up tearing mine just compressing the piston (with the proper tool), thus another reason for one set of pads and leave them on. I don't want to keep touching the rear.

.... dang that was a lot of writing for a simple answer... my bad..

- Head over to trackmustangsonline.com for some techy stuff.
- Brake hardware kit OEM: https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-part...tdXN0YW5nJnk9MjAyMCZ0PWd0JmU9NS0wbC12OC1nYXM=
 

shogun32

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I have learned NOT to use aftermarket hardware kits that come with the new pads they simply don't fit well, get a second set of hardware (the two pins and metal hold down bracket).
I go to OP Mustang for my needs on that front.
 

NightmareMoon

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If your pads are glazed (i.e. shiney and mirror like), then yes you need to step up to a higher temp pad for the track.

I did this and even with new track pads pretty well bedded in, I still never got back to that aggressive bite feel and I think it was because the rotors were kinda too worn and grooved. Replacing the rotors helped.

The issue with track and street pads is that if you're using the same rotor you need to be careful that the pad compounds are compatible, otherwise you need to get the old pad deposits off before running the new pads. (a lot of pads work by depositing material onto the rotor, others are strictly abrasive and just wear the rotor down).

Anyhoo, I've had good luck with GLOC GS1 for the street and GLOC R12/R10 (F/R) on for the track. Prices are decent. Dust is low on the GS1, and the R12/10 track pads are compatible with the GS1 deposits and hold up to the track use.
 

NightmareMoon

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ya I like OPMustang too.
 

DrZed

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Anyhoo, I've had good luck with GLOC GS1 for the street and GLOC R12/R10 (F/R) on for the track. Prices are decent. Dust is low on the GS1, and the R12/10 track pads are compatible with the GS1 deposits and hold up to the track use.
I'm feeling this is likely the way I will be going as well, but had not considered the GS1 for street, which makes sense.
 

NightmareMoon

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I'm feeling this is likely the way I will be going as well, but had not considered the GS1 for street, which makes sense.
Its a good daily driver pad, lower dust than stock which is nice. Just slap on the track pads and its race car mode. You want the staggered pad setup for the track pads as far as I can tell. R12 front R10 rear is a good place to start.

I boiled the F out of my brake fluid doing a pretty good job of keeping up with a GT3 on slicks at the last track night in america with those pads. Need to not skip on flushing the brake fluid if I'm going to be driving like that. heh. Learned my lesson and didn't go off.
 

DrZed

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Its a good daily driver pad, lower dust than stock which is nice. Just slap on the track pads and its race car mode. You want the staggered pad setup for the track pads as far as I can tell. R12 front R10 rear is a good place to start.

I boiled the F out of my brake fluid doing a pretty good job of keeping up with a GT3 on slicks at the last track night in america with those pads. Need to not skip on flushing the brake fluid if I'm going to be driving like that. heh. Learned my lesson and didn't go off.
Good call. I have a motive power bleeder and the darn VW and BMW master cylinder connector fits the Mustang! Bleeding is a breeze with that thing... I'm use ATE TYP200. I know there is better but this is impressive stuff for the price.
 

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I was in the same situation last season. I was going through OEM brake pads a lot as I was progressively getting faster. With that in mind I still think fro dual duty car the OEM brake pads are the best of both worlds. Only downslide of OEM pads is the brake dust. However I upgraded for track to GLoc R10/R8 (which are stritable but they are noisy my car sounds like train with them). For track use and our cars R12/R10 will be better option for faster tracks than mine but mine is really short and I can't get enough heat in my pads. Regarding OEM's I have over 400 laps on a breaks heavy track and the OEM rotors are still looking great so I guess I'm sticking with OEM rotors. Only reason to get 2 piece rotors if you have a dedicated track car otherwise the chatter from the 2 pieces and the price doesn't worth it.
 

Andy13186

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For the rear, this is more complicated. I found the pads glazed with the traction control/stability on and in track mode as the brakes were overheating with consistent intervention. Either turn stability off completely, or look at a race pad that can handle the heat and won't screech or be useless on the street. I've reached out to G-loc for some advice on this, and will plan on running this track pad on the rear only all the time. The other issue is that the dust boots on the rear caliper is so fragile I ended up tearing mine just compressing the piston (with the proper tool), thus another reason for one set of pads and leave them on. I don't want to keep touching the rear.
What mode are you in when the rear pad issue happens? I found that for aggressive track driving put the car into track mode, this illuminates the tcs off light, but then you can toggle TCS off switch and it will say TCS off, in this "secret" mode you can rip 400+ foot burnouts if you keep it straight enough with stability control still on. (atleast I think its still on, it has almost never kicked in for me in this mode or its imperceptible) This is pretty much the only mode that works properly for me after going whippled without having an insane amount of stability kicking in - even when tcs is toggled off in the other modes too.
 
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DrZed

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What mode are you in when the rear pad issue happens? I found that for aggressive track driving put the car into track mode, this illuminates the tcs off light, but then you can toggle TCS off switch and it will say TCS off, in this "secret" mode you can rip 400+ foot burnouts if you keep it straight enough with stability control still on. (atleast I think its still on, it has almost never kicked in for me in this mode or its imperceptible) This is pretty much the only mode that works properly for me after going whippled without having an insane amount of stability kicking in - even when tcs is toggled off in the other modes too.
Track mode for 3 sessions and stability/TC off entirely for one session. It seemed that in track mode a lot of traction control action was happening with the rear brakes. I do chalk this up to the Pirellis which are so poor in traction. A decent tire this year will likely deal with that.

Thoughts?
 

Andy13186

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Track mode for 3 sessions and stability/TC off entirely for one session. It seemed that in track mode a lot of traction control action was happening with the rear brakes. I do chalk this up to the Pirellis which are so poor in traction. A decent tire this year will likely deal with that.

Thoughts?
Have you tried putting it in track mode then toggling the TCS off but not fully toggling advancetrac off? The tcs off light illuminates automatically when you put it in track despite it not actually being off, atleast thats what it does for me and my current tune. Put in track mode the use the toggle tcs switch next time you go for a drive, if it says "TCS off" and the tcs off light stays on then it worked. You can also toggle it back on then off again and it will be in the same very lenient mode.
 

DrZed

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Have you tried putting it in track mode then toggling the TCS off but not fully toggling advancetrac off? The tcs off light illuminates automatically when you put it in track despite it not actually being off, atleast thats what it does for me and my current tune. Put in track mode the use the toggle tcs switch next time you go for a drive, if it says "TCS off" and the tcs off light stays on then it worked. You can also toggle it back on then off again and it will be in the same very lenient mode.
Hmmm... no. I'll try that. Thx for tip.
 

 
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