RLCA removal / re-install

[kz]

What is the right way to get to forward bolt on RLCAs ? I have knuckle out, can likely get the camber link out too, would rather not remove half shafts.

Manual talks about removing exhaust but I don't see where the exhaust would be in the way of accessing that bolt...

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[NGOT8R]

I didn’t remove my half shafts when I did mine, but the exhaust was off of the car at the time because I was installing LTs. With the spring removed, a 1/2” drive breaker bar and some extensions, I was able to remove the front RLCA bolts without issue.

 

[kz]

I didn’t remove my half shafts when I did mine, but the exhaust was off of the car at the time because I was installing LTs. With the spring removed, a 1/2” drive breaker bar and some extensions, I was able to remove the front RLCA bolts without issue.

From which side did you insert the ratchet ? From the side of the car ? From the bottom ? I still have the spring in (since arm is coming out, spring will too so I won't lower the subframe if I don't have to) but can take it out.

Since manual talks about exhaust it seems like they're suggesting getting there from opposite side of the car but I don't see a line of sight to it, exhaust in or out.

 

[NGOT8R]

From which side did you insert the ratchet ? From the side of the car ? From the bottom ? I still have the spring in (since arm is coming out, spring will too so I won't lower the subframe if I don't have to) but can take it out.

Since manual talks about exhaust it seems like they're suggesting getting there from opposite side of the car but I don't see a line of sight to it, exhaust in or out.

I accessed the bolts from the bottom (underneath the half shafts). You don’t have to take the spring out, but IMO, taking the pressure off of the control arm made it a little easier for me. you won’t have to completely remove the subframe bolts to lower the subframe enough to get the spring out, so it won’t affect your alignment.

 

[Grimreaper]

there's a direct line of sight for the socket and extension going from the back to the front diagonally. axle back exhaust has to be off usually though. knuckle and axle can stay in. the wrench/breaker bar/tq wrench is rear of the subframe under the rear floor pan with the extension and socket on the bolt head. slides into the subframe openings through the space with the axle and keeps going.

from the center of the rear floor pan its roughly 45 degrees towards the front of the qter panel wheel openings or door edges. youll be off center to each side of the floor pan but youll see once things line up

 

[moffetts]

Like this. It's a slow grind to get it out of there.

 

[kz]

Well - I was actually quite dumb - since I've had knuckles off already, I got the damper off that got me more access to forward bolt with the number of ratchets. Once that was out, spring came out without unbolting the subframe (which I could - not worried about alignment since at this point everything is apart anyway) and got the rear bolt out.

To answer my question - exhaust is in the way of removing the rear bolt - it's long and doesn't quite come out when it hits it - I wiggled it out having loosened H-pipe clamps.

Thanks a lot for help.

 

[NGOT8R]

Glad you got it out. Your on your way now. I hope the bushings come out pretty easily for you.

 

[kz]

Glad you got it out. Your on your way now. I hope the bushings come out pretty easily for you.

Going to friend's tomorrow to use his press. After an attempt to get the knuckle bushing out and then pressing the bearing it I just decided to take everything out and use a press. I'll swap rear studs for APR ones too while I'm at it.

 

[NGOT8R]

Going to friend's tomorrow to use his press. After an attempt to get the knuckle bushing out and then pressing the bearing it I just decided to take everything out and use a press. I'll swap rear studs for APR ones too while I'm at it.

I wish I had thought to swap rear studs when I was doing mine.

 

[kz]

Reviving this thread - I am struggling with fitting the rear lower control arm back into the subframe - front part has Steeda bearing in it, rear has original sealed bearing.

Which side should go in first to be able to fit the other one ? Front or rear ?

 

[NGOT8R]

I put the front side in first on mine. It will be a snug fit, but if you sit the RLCA on top of a floor jack pad and lift it into place, that will help keep it nice and level while you insert the bolts.

 

[kz]

I put the front side in first on mine. It will be a snug fit, but if you sit the RLCA on top of a floor jack pad and lift it into place, that will help keep it nice and level while you insert the bolts.

Thanks - off to the garage to try. Did you insert the arm into the subframe mount from the bottom then ?

 

[NGOT8R]

Please don’t take this the wrong way, but if you’re trying to

Thanks - off to the garage to try. Did you insert the arm into the subframe mount from the bottom then ?

Yes, I did (sort of). I inserted the RLCA from the bottom, but towards the front of the subframe while pushing it back into the subframe at the same time.

 

[NGOT8R]

You aren’t trying to do this with the spring in the perch are you? The spring should be installed last, otherwise you will have a significant fight on your hands to accomplish the task at hand.

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