Reusing OEM pp1 pads with Baer Eradispeed rotors?

[Andy13186]

Is it ok to replace the pp1 rotors with baer eradispeed+ rotors and reuse the OEM pads? If not, what pads would you guys suggest for these rotors? dont really need increased braking performance and I would like the same or less dust as the OEM pads, replacing the rotors mainly for weight reduction.

Sponsored

 

[shogun32]

you can use any pad. I like the stock Ferodo myself.

 

[Andy13186]

you can use any pad. I like the stock Ferodo myself.

Is it ok to use the pads that have 16750 miles on them with new rotors? Thats my current plan.

 

[shogun32]

why not? what's the remaining pad thickness? Are your old pads still flat

 

[Radiation Joe]

Is it ok to use the pads that have 16750 miles on them with new rotors? Thats my current plan.

What do your current rotors look like? If they are smooth, then you have no problem using the current pads. If the rotors are grooved, then move to a new pad of your choice.

 

[NightmareMoon]

It wouldn’t be a bad idea to take the pads to a sander and make them properly flat again. A good sander with a flat metal backing plate, ideally not some hand tool.

If your pads had any irregularities from fitting to the old rotors, they’ll transfer some of those features to the new rotors. Remove a little material and flatten them put and they’ll be as good as fresh pads.

i didn’t do this at first and got some weird hot spots on my new rotors, and sanding the rotors down a little helped significantly.

if you want to look at alternative pads, I think the GLOC GS1 street pad is a little less dusty (maybe 25% less, if you don’t wash the car they’ll still dust up the wheels), not quite so grabby on initial contact, and still performs very well. Honestly the stock pads are pretty good aside from dust.

 

[Andy13186]

The pads looked fine and had a lot of life, my rotors were .. somewhat normal I think. I installed the front rotors today and just reused the stock pads. I am assuming nightmare you meant you sanded the pads right or did you sand both?

One thing I was disappointed in Baer with is them not including any installation instructions or torque specs. The caliper bolts came off relatively easy with a torque wrench but I read that the torque specs were 85 foot lbs for the caliper bolts, achieving this tightness seemed about 10x as hard as breaking the stock bolts loose so I got confused and questioned myself and found a source stating 25 foot lbs for those bolts which seemed much more reasonable than 85 considering the amount of effort difference there was in achieving breaking loose and 85 foot lbs tightening. I am still questioning the proper torque specs for the bolts that hold the caliper on the bracket that holds it on the rotor. They are at around 45 currently and well, obviously that isnt right its either too high or too low. Havent done the rears yet.

Does anyone have a haynes manual or definitely know the torque specs for the bolts that actually screw into the caliper through the bracket?

 

[shogun32]

Rear brake line to caliper: 35 lb/ft (47.5 Nm) - replace brass washers
Rear caliper mounting bracket (18mm bolt): 129 lb/ft (175 Nm) - blue loctite
Rear caliper to mounting bracket (14mm bolt): 24 lb/ft (32 Nm)

That second line sounds absolutely preposterous but I'd have to look at how it's attached. But the other 2 are fairly sane.

 

[Andy13186]

Rear brake line to caliper: 35 lb/ft (47.5 Nm) - replace brass washers
Rear caliper mounting bracket (18mm bolt): 129 lb/ft (175 Nm) - blue loctite
Rear caliper to mounting bracket (14mm bolt): 24 lb/ft (32 Nm)

That second line sounds absolutely preposterous but I'd have to look at how it's attached. But the other 2 are fairly sane.

I am referring to the front rotors but 24 for mounting the the rear rotor to the rear bracket may be reasonable

 

[shogun32]

yes, I know you were asking about front. The bolt is in sheer and unlike wheel lug bolts does not depend on clamping force to locate the part. That's done by the shoulder of the bolt. The 75% of yield on a 14mm 8.8 grade is 103lb/ft so even as high as 85 is not going to break it. I am just mystified why you would need much north of 35 to 50. Vibration?

Ok, so looking at similar kits
https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/FORDINSTSHTM-2300-T.PDF
https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-2300-S.pdf
https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-2300-Y_Brake_Kit.pdf

It would appear 85ft/lb is the number to use after all.

also

Sponsored