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Return To Stock

Enoch

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Well I've finally done it.... I've returned to stock tune:)

Here's the story.

When I first put the Lund tune in, straight away, I didn't like the gear change:mad:

Up or down the box, sport mode, paddles or just in D, it was harsh and jerky and nothing like what it was before the tune....

So I contacted Lund and asked if they could "soften" the gear changes a bit.
They sent a new tune, and it was a lot better, but still nowhere near stock...

I've lived with it like this since Feb in the hope that I'd get used to it or it'd improve a bit with time..

Well it hasn't, so with the long Scottish trip just around the corner, I decided to return to stock and see how it felt...

I replaced the CAI insert and put the stock tune back in:)

Oh my oh my....what a revelation, the car is absolutely silky smooth, and you can hardly tell it's changing gear at all:thumbsup:. Tried all the modes, paddles everything, it's bloody fantastic.:clap2:

So I've just sent Lund a tune request, to see if they can give me an engine tune only??:shrug:

I shall report back what they say:)
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Gibbo205

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This is so funny!

You know why!

Jon at Lund is doing exactly same for me, told him stock air box, the car is stock, just send me an engine tune, leave TQ management alone (apart from throttle blade TQ limiter) and please stock DBW and throttle maps.

Lets see.

For now I am running my JDM tune which is essentially a canned SCT/DS/FRPP map with a few simple tweaks, but in short it maintains stock drive ability with just more engine power/torque and ability to adapt to better fuel and air flow etc. Plus it has no lift shift feature, pretty cool, but hardly ever use it as my brain won't compute not lifting off the throttle whilst clutching in, LOL.

Its a bit weak up top, hence asking Lund for the custom tune, we shall see.


If I were you mate, I'd seriously consider putting the stock air box back on if your gonna run the CAI with the insert, because by doing that well the stock air box simply still drives nicer, has lower temps so more power.

The CAI will only give you benefit if you remove that insert, as you do have headers to help maximise the flow.

Check your maf flow rates, you could compare Roush with insert, to stock box with the emissions filter removed etc.


I even considered buying HP tuners pro suite and well learning to tune myself, did my 306HDI years ago myself (yep forgot to add that to the list of owned cars) and got it to go from 88HP upto 110HP, no ill effects and though at first it looks a minefield it starts to make sense.

But saying that tuning a 306HDI is easy, there is not many tables to modify, on the Mustang there is more throttle tables and ignition tables than the 306HDI had in its whole ECU, they are a true mind field.


It would just be good if the current tuners would allow you to specify to maintain elements of the stock tune like automatic shift points and shift/line pressure, throttle maps, DBW settings, TQ management settings etc. Its a shame they feel the need to ramp DBW/Throttle, TQ management, shift pressure to essentially make the car more violent to give the false impression of it being faster than it is.

It is also a benefit on a Whipple, because they actually dial most of all that stuff back from stock to prevent the car snapping in half, why a Lund tuned Whipple car is a sheer blissful thing to drive.

But in short we need a UK tuner, but for me to learn the VCT, cams, throttle maps I feel it would take me months and before I ever sold anything to anyone I would have to have run it on my car for at least a year and put it through some very abusive environments to be confident all was safe, with a full time job and getting old just not able. Tuning a 306HDI was easier, just for myself, no risk and if it blew well it was a sub 1k car. :D
 

Lone Survivor

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I'm at the point of returning my shifter back to stock, having real difficulties getting rid of the vibration on the MGW. Also discovered a prop weight has come off, not impacting on the shifter but needs fixing, been quoted £90 for re-balance, but I might just go along warranty route if I return to stock shifter.
 

Gibbo205

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I'm at the point of returning my shifter back to stock, having real difficulties getting rid of the vibration on the MGW. Also discovered a prop weight has come off, not impacting on the shifter but needs fixing, been quoted £90 for re-balance, but I might just go along warranty route if I return to stock shifter.

Do prop weight first, can cause all kinds of nasty vibration.

The MGW does not have a lift up collar does it? You push down? If so I bet you its the collar area just rattling, try wedging something or even blu tac as a test in that area, see if it goes. ;)
 

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Lone Survivor

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No lift up Gibbo, it vibrates under load from @3k revs up. Driving me nuts, I'll give it a go, but it's all quite solid in that area :(
 

666mac

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MGW shifter in mine reverse is a struggle but I'm a fat lad so lean on it helps, the only vibration I get is if I labour the car stock one was same but not as bad, welcome to have a drive of mine brotha I may play with the reverse setting in a bid to make it easier.
 

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Cheers Mac :thumbsup: Yeah it's a special effort for reverse :lol:, good job I'm a fat bastard :D
 
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Enoch

Enoch

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Is this a pre prepared excuse for your speed on said trip...? :D
Don't need any excuses mate.....Gibbo will confirm I'm driving miss daisy:D
 

666mac

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I will be running my tyres in so will follow you Enoch
 

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Gibbo205

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I will be running my tyres in so will follow you Enoch
Hahahahahahahah!

Don't lie, we know your tyre bedding in procedures all too well :D
 
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Enoch

Enoch

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I will be running my tyres in so will follow you Enoch
Mmm.... based on our last run out, I think I'd prefer you in front:lol::lol::ninja:
 

Manders Mustang

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Mmm.... based on our last run out, I think I'd prefer you in front:lol::lol::ninja:
No you definitely want him at the back based on his last run out!!!!!! And no bikes. someone block him off if you see mr fireblade :lol:
 

666mac

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Lol my last run out cost me £12000 beat that for a meet cost
At this rate I will have enough spares to buy a new car.
 

GR11M

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Lol my last run out cost me £12000 beat that for a meet cost
At this rate I will have enough spares to buy a new car.
I still haven't seen what the actual damage was
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