Removed blower and returned to stock no power 2500 to 3500 rpm

[racingmason]

It’s still doing it. I’ve gone through everything. To include checking the fuel wiring to the FPDM and stock pump. I’ve disassembled the throttle body and made sure it is assembled correctly. I’ve had a friend operate the throttle with accessory power on and it responds appropriately.

What is weird is if I hold it wide open when the car doesn’t accelerate the car sits at that speed and rpm. Sometimes if I lift off the throttle and smash it WOT after that happens then it drives fine. This always happens when the load is high I.e on and incline etc. I believe something is torque limiting the throttle body but without a data logger or scan tool it’ll be hard to find.

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[WildHorse]

I believe something is torque limiting the throttle body but without a data logger or scan tool it’ll be hard to find.

Then your SOL. You need logs, it'll tell ya the problem in 2 seconds.

 

[Andy13186]

Ford dealer can log it Id just bring it there and ask them what is the problem? Are you still under powertrain warranty period?

 

[Nuked]

Find someone locally with an SCT and log TQ Source.

 

[luc]

If you bought a used car at a dealership, then shortly after buying the car it had issues, and you found out it was a race car before, or had been raced or what have you. The sales man, manager, and what not is going to look at you and say, "it's not our problem, sorry buddy.." a car dealership will flat out lie to someone's face and give them very false hopes when selling a car. Screw that dealership and let them deal with the fall out. I had tried to bring a car in for warranty work, told them what was wrong, what needed to be replaced, showed them what needed to be replaced. They kept telling me its covered under warranty but they had to charge me a diagnostic fee of 75 bucks to get a tech to come look at it and diagnose it. I told them there is nothing to diagnose and if it part didn't need to be repaired and I was wrong about the issue ill pay for the whole service out of pocket. No go. Point is, screw that dealership and the I would feel bad. They do not give a damn if they rip someone off, get a young stupid buyer into a high interest loan he doesn't understand how bad of a decision is it. Okay, off my soap box.

I have no problem regarding the dealer but in the end it’s the buyer/end user that you are screwing up and that is not cool at all

 

[WildHorse]

Then tell the dealer. IF they're cool with & can fix it, done.

 

[MKL_DS]

Check all your wiring. Especially throttle body connections. Anything you unplugged previously needs to be rechecked.
Try disconnecting the battery and drain voltage then reconnect to see if it helps too.

 

[racingmason]

Check all your wiring. Especially throttle body connections. Anything you unplugged previously needs to be rechecked.
Try disconnecting the battery and drain voltage then reconnect to see if it helps too.

I did that today for 6 hours. Still happens. Everything is plugged in and no vac leaks. The only thing I can think is it has something to do with the differential being a different ratio than the car came with, but I was told by a tuner it doesn’t matter.

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