Reliable Department of Boost daily driver set-up

[illtal]

What was your setup? Looking at Whipple's site, a 4 in pulley is good for about 9 psi on 91, while a 3.625 is about 12 psi. Also most sites say the standard pulley for the 2.9L Stage 1 on a 2015 is 3.75.



Wish I knew where they were lol. Most of the FI cars in NE are summer only cars that make about 850 hp on 104. Not daily drivers.

Where are you in Florida. Tons of FI cars all over the place there. Maybe take a trip and see some of the lethal guys they probably have most of the setups for s550 mustang on their own personal cars.

I run a eb2650 sc stage 1, Long tube, catless, mangnaflow street cat back, Lund tune, eb 103mm tb, return fuel system. Manual transmission, other than that stock stuff. The TVS kits all have the same rotor pack, just different case designs and different intercoolers. The edelbrock has a nitrous restrictor in the bypass hose to make the boost onset more gradual.

Obviously all of these power adders will make power it's about delivery, and what your useage will be.

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[Logan@Lethal]

What was your setup? Looking at Whipple's site, a 4 in pulley is good for about 9 psi on 91, while a 3.625 is about 12 psi. Also most sites say the standard pulley for the 2.9L Stage 1 on a 2015 is 3.75.



Wish I knew where they were lol. Most of the FI cars in NE are summer only cars that make about 850 hp on 104. Not daily drivers.

If you ever hop in a plane and come to FL, we have a ton of local cars that I could scrounge together for you... Including my own '20 with a Whipple.

There are times I wish I went with a Procharger due to the "lethal" simplicity and ease of reversal, but I am overall happy with my Whipple. We had one on our '18 that went mid 8 second 1/4 mile with a stock motor, too, so it's hard to discredit them at all in terms of powder delivery.

With all this discussion I really would like to emphasize there is no wrong choice.. You're handpicking between the favorite children.. all of them will work. Message me when you have free time and we'll jump on a phone call together and discuss even further, too.

Where are you in Florida. Tons of FI cars all over the place there. Maybe take a trip and see some of the lethal guys they probably have most of the setups for s550 mustang on their own personal cars.

I run a eb2650 sc stage 1, Long tube, catless, mangnaflow street cat back, Lund tune, eb 103mm tb, return fuel system. Manual transmission, other than that stock stuff. The TVS kits all have the same rotor pack, just different case designs and different intercoolers. The edelbrock has a nitrous restrictor in the bypass hose to make the boost onset more gradual.

Obviously all of these power adders will make power it's about delivery, and what your useage will be.

Think that was fi (FI) like forced induction in Nebraska.. wish he was in Florida.. I'd hook him up with some rides!

 

[HourlyB]

Where are you in Florida. Tons of FI cars all over the place there. Maybe take a trip and see some of the lethal guys they probably have most of the setups for s550 mustang on their own personal cars.

I run a eb2650 sc stage 1, Long tube, catless, mangnaflow street cat back, Lund tune, eb 103mm tb, return fuel system. Manual transmission, other than that stock stuff. The TVS kits all have the same rotor pack, just different case designs and different intercoolers. The edelbrock has a nitrous restrictor in the bypass hose to make the boost onset more gradual.

Obviously all of these power adders will make power it's about delivery, and what your useage will be.

Gotcha, makes sense. I think the general take away I've gotten is a centrifugal will be cheaper, easier to install and take off but a positive displacement will offer just as good performance. What matters is going with a quality brand (Whipple, PC, Edelbrock, Paxton) and replacing the oil pump gear and crank sprocket with a billet version and change/check spark plugs often.

If you ever hop in a plane and come to FL, we have a ton of local cars that I could scrounge together for you... Including my own '20 with a Whipple.

There are times I wish I went with a Procharger due to the "lethal" simplicity and ease of reversal, but I am overall happy with my Whipple. We had one on our '18 that went mid 8 second 1/4 mile with a stock motor, too, so it's hard to discredit them at all in terms of powder delivery.

With all this discussion I really would like to emphasize there is no wrong choice.. You're handpicking between the favorite children.. all of them will work. Message me when you have free time and we'll jump on a phone call together and discuss even further, too.


Think that was fi (FI) like forced induction in Nebraska.. wish he was in Florida.. I'd hook him up with some rides!

Should have been more clear about NE lol. New England, but more specifically Mass.

I could technically drive down, I have some family near the 'glades. But I think I'll wait until (hopefully) a COVID vaccine comes out before I do any serious interstate travel. Plus, it gives me time to prepare my bank account for the next great drainage. (Hopefully next summer, maybe spring)

I think in the end, the advantages of a centri overrule my monkey brain's love of VREEEEE. Too many positives lol.

 

[illtal]

Gotcha, makes sense. I think the general take away I've gotten is a centrifugal will be cheaper, easier to install and take off but a positive displacement will offer just as good performance. What matters is going with a quality brand (Whipple, PC, Edelbrock, Paxton) and replacing the oil pump gear and crank sprocket with a billet version and change/check spark plugs often.



Should have been more clear about NE lol. New England, but more specifically Mass.

I could technically drive down, I have some family near the 'glades. But I think I'll wait until (hopefully) a COVID vaccine comes out before I do any serious interstate travel. Plus, it gives me time to prepare my bank account for the next great drainage. (Hopefully next summer, maybe spring)

I think in the end, the advantages of a centri overrule my monkey brain's love of VREEEEE. Too many positives lol.

Mine is pretty silent sounds like I'm just running LTH, and a muffler less exhaust on a pull.
The advantages of the centri is real just make sure you get the right set up for what you want to run.
There are some disadvantages to running a centri as well, one of which is the hissing noise in vacuum, but from my experience some guys noise is louder than others probably because of different setups with the BOV.

Just make sure you do the proper research, some people will get mad at you for asking but it is a substantial investment.

 

[HourlyB]

Mine is pretty silent sounds like I'm just running LTH, and a muffler less exhaust on a pull.
The advantages of the centri is real just make sure you get the right set up for what you want to run.
There are some disadvantages to running a centri as well, one of which is the hissing noise in vacuum, but from my experience some guys noise is louder than others probably because of different setups with the BOV.

Just make sure you do the proper research, some people will get mad at you for asking but it is a substantial investment.

I know that the guys who run turbos love that stutter/flutter noise. I do to tbh.

And I think right now I'm liking the P1SC HO set up. (https://www.lethalperformance.com/l...charger-high-output-supercharger-package.html), keep the stock pulley and pretty much everything else, with of course the boundary oil pump gear and crank sprocket and some brisk RR14YS sparkplugs. Try to get it installed and tuned at a local place, but it looks like the only relatively local procharger place mostly does GM cars.

 

[sigintel]

What was your setup? Looking at Whipple's site, a 4 in pulley is good for about 9 psi on 91, while a 3.625 is about 12 psi. Also most sites say the standard pulley for the 2.9L Stage 1 on a 2015 is 3.75.
Wish I knew where they were lol. Most of the FI cars in NE are summer only cars that make about 850 hp on 104. Not daily drivers.

600rwhp in an S550 chassis is plenty on track. Handling setup is going to be the biggest issue in how fast the car is. When you buy a GT350, GT500, MACH1, you are really paying for a handling setup quickly adjustable to explore road course limits in a safe manner.

I had 3.5, 3.625 and 4.0 pulleys for use on 93 oct in Texas.
Stock exhaust.
Our gas quality here at Shell/Texaco/Chevron, Exxon, Sunoco, etc is pretty good. Dont buy Venzuelan/Valero/Stripes/grocerystore fuel and fewer problems.
Stage 2 Whipple from 2015. Started as Base GT then basically pulled the entire front bumper, fenders and supports to run 18x11 and 19x11 square for track day fun(drift) (run a staggered setup w smaller fronts until you are absolutely sure how to tune out oversteer at 80-145 lift throttle). Lots of mods along the way while tracking: FRPP handling pack suspension is fine, kept adding cooling. GT350/PP rad, Reische 170tstat, added trans cooler right front. Used my original water pump to run a water rad dedicated to oil cooler and removed the main rad engine oil cooler bypass section, Sheet aluminum partial enclosed under rear engine bay around headers/cats and opened rear cowl.
I killed 3 diffs (3.15 LSD) but paid only $800 for all 3 from a junk yard.
3 sets timing chains with redline 7900 - 8300 (wear showed chains start to "climb" the TG as the lash opened up).
Really high temps in summer 2018 prolly hurt 7,8 with some on track CHT above 243.
I did kill the motor off after 7,8 started dropping below 190 compression like 180 - 160. But the replacement service long block was only $3800 so totally happy.

Bought a 2018(7yr,100kpowertrain,lol) to go low mount TT but then got sidetracked running a turbo Audi wheel to wheel and recently acquired an X5M. Have a GT350 full suspension in garage waiting for me to decide wtf is next. Almost ordered a GT500 short block back when they were available...
If Mach1 pricing can get closer to 1SS 1LE, I'll consider grabbing a Mach1 for a turbo build.

 

[HourlyB]

600rwhp in an S550 chassis is plenty on track. Handling setup is going to be the biggest issue in how fast the car is. When you buy a GT350, GT500, MACH1, you are really paying for a handling setup quickly adjustable to explore road course limits in a safe manner.

I had 3.5, 3.625 and 4.0 pulleys for use on 93 oct in Texas.
Stock exhaust.
Our gas quality here at Shell/Texaco/Chevron, Exxon, Sunoco, etc is pretty good. Dont buy Venzuelan/Valero/Stripes/grocerystore fuel and fewer problems.
Stage 2 Whipple from 2015. Started as Base GT then basically pulled the entire front bumper, fenders and supports to run 18x11 and 19x11 square for track day fun(drift) (run a staggered setup w smaller fronts until you are absolutely sure how to tune out oversteer at 80-145 lift throttle). Lots of mods along the way while tracking: FRPP handling pack suspension is fine, kept adding cooling. GT350/PP rad, Reische 170tstat, added trans cooler right front. Used my original water pump to run a water rad dedicated to oil cooler and removed the main rad engine oil cooler bypass section, Sheet aluminum partial enclosed under rear engine bay around headers/cats and opened rear cowl.
I killed 3 diffs (3.15 LSD) but paid only $800 for all 3 from a junk yard.
3 sets timing chains with redline 7900 - 8300 (wear showed chains start to "climb" the TG as the lash opened up).
Really high temps in summer 2018 prolly hurt 7,8 with some on track CHT above 243.
I did kill the motor off after 7,8 started dropping below 190 compression like 180 - 160. But the replacement service long block was only $3800 so totally happy.

Bought a 2018(7yr,100kpowertrain,lol) to go low mount TT but then got sidetracked running a turbo Audi wheel to wheel and recently acquired an X5M. Have a GT350 full suspension in garage waiting for me to decide wtf is next. Almost ordered a GT500 short block back when they were available...
If Mach1 pricing can get closer to 1SS 1LE, I'll consider grabbing a Mach1 for a turbo build.

Jesus. Was that all just to make it reliable? And how much rwhp was it making

Also I already have a 19x10 square set up with some suspension work done already.

• Ford Performance Track Shock and Strut kit
• Steeda Front Roll Center and Bumpsteer kit
• Steeda Rear Lower Control Arm Spherical Bearings
• BMR Rear Cradle Lockout kit
• BMR Rear Shock Mount
• BMR Handling Springs
• SVE R357 Wheels (19x10 all around)
• Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 (285/35R19)
• Ford Performance Strut Tower Brace

Next spring I plan to install Track Pack Brembo front brakes and put in a BMR adjustable sway bar. Any of these mods change the recommendations?

Also, with a stock engine, how bad is AL Prime/Local station/cheap 93 octane after 13k miles/1 year of daily driving? Anything that I should do to mitigate it?

 

[shitstang01]

Who do you plan on being tuned by for the DOB Kit?

 

[HourlyB]

Who do you plan on being tuned by for the DOB Kit?

I think right now I'm more leaning towards a Whipple, Paxton or Procharger. DoB is a good idea and def saves money but I want no questions as to reliability.

 

[shitstang01]

I think right now I'm more leaning towards a Whipple, Paxton or Procharger. DoB is a good idea and def saves money but I want no questions as to reliability.

Yea I was going to go DOB but I just took the vmp gen2r deal while they lasted, and my tuner told me to steer clear of the m122 for power reasons.

 

[HourlyB]

Yea I was going to go DOB but I just took the vmp gen2r deal while they lasted, and my tuner told me to steer clear of the m122 for power reasons.

Yeah, the m122 works but can't really make anything over the OEM specs.

Lowest bidder, as usual.

 

[AZ18yote]

I know that the guys who run turbos love that stutter/flutter noise. I do to tbh.

And I think right now I'm liking the P1SC HO set up. (https://www.lethalperformance.com/l...charger-high-output-supercharger-package.html), keep the stock pulley and pretty much everything else, with of course the boundary oil pump gear and crank sprocket and some brisk RR14YS sparkplugs. Try to get it installed and tuned at a local place, but it looks like the only relatively local procharger place mostly does GM cars.

If you go the PC route do yourself a favor and opt for the p1x upgrade in your kit.

 

[RCK605]

I think right now I'm more leaning towards a Whipple, Paxton or Procharger. DoB is a good idea and def saves money but I want no questions as to reliability.

I just finished a Whipple Gen 5 Stage 1 install on my car. The kit was very well put together and install was fairly easy. Whipple tune runs great as well. I would highly recommend it if you want an all inclusive kit.

 

[HourlyB]

I just finished a Whipple Gen 5 Stage 1 install on my car. The kit was very well put together and install was fairly easy. Whipple tune runs great as well. I would highly recommend it if you want an all inclusive kit.

Nice! Anything you would suggest getting to support it? So far I have;

• Billet Oil Pump Gear/Crank Sprocket
• Switch to 5w-50 oil
• Upgrade to a LPX clutch (or Mantic Twin Metallic)
• Don't use crummy cheap gas

If you go the PC route do yourself a favor and opt for the p1x upgrade in your kit.

Can you elaborate?

 

[AZ18yote]

Nice! Anything you would suggest getting to support it? So far I have;

• Billet Oil Pump Gear/Crank Sprocket
• Switch to 5w-50 oil
• Upgrade to a LPX clutch (or Mantic Twin Metallic)
• Don't use crummy cheap gas

Can you elaborate?

You had mentioned the p1sc ho kit. If going that route definitely consider the p1x upgrade. More efficient and powerful head unit and only like a $200 difference if doing it up front.

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