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Reliable Department of Boost daily driver set-up

HourlyB

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Title says it all, I basically am looking into creating a set-up for the Department of Boost GT550 kit to make a daily driver that will see occasional track day/auto-x use. Dyno-queening is not the goal at all. Numbers mean little, usability means everything.
Basic requirements;
  • Run on pump gas (93)
  • Be usable as a daily driver in New England (including winter use)
  • Be able to go to a track/course, not overheat and drive home after
  • Not stress/shatter a MT82 drivetrain
  • Have a increase in power (At least 525)
My kit setup right now would be;
  • Base kit ("""Stock""" Blower, CAI, etc)
  • Comp Heat Barrier
  • 14 GPM Cooling Package
  • Spark Plugs
  • VPM Pump Booster Plug and Play
  • Moroso Catch Can
Should I be looking to replace anything else? I know the oil pump gear is prone to failing, would I want to replace it with a billet one? (https://www.opmustang.com/store/p24..._GT350_Boundary_Oil_Pump_Gear_Set.html.html#/) And I'm guessing the clutch will have to be replaced as well, would this clutch work? (https://www.steeda.com/mcleod-6912-25-mustang-rst-clutch)
My coyote also is currently using Pennzoil Platinum synthetic 5w-30, would I want to switch to another weight or brand or would that hold up?

Thanks in advance!
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Logan@Lethal

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I'd recommend a Procharger if you're planning to track the car. We have personal experience with hot-lapping a D1X GT350 with zero issue.

The oil pump gear / sprocket setup from Boundary will work well.. that's what is in my car. For clutch, debatable. The RST is a FANTASTIC clutch.. but you may be prone to roasting it with your application. I would look at the LPX if you wanted a similar engagement but stronger/more resistant to heat clutch.. or Mantic twin disc metallic.
5W50 is what I put in my boosted 5.0.

Let us know if we can help out at all with a quote or further information.
 

Zeb8806

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Going to guess your not going to get a ton of first hand info on this forum. The aftermarket setups are so proven and reliable that most people don’t piece together setups like DOB. I was intrigued by to DOB setup but ultimately decided to go with a Whipple setup.
 
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HourlyB

HourlyB

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I'd recommend a Procharger if you're planning to track the car. We have personal experience with hot-lapping a D1X GT350 with zero issue.

The oil pump gear / sprocket setup from Boundary will work well.. that's what is in my car. For clutch, debatable. The RST is a FANTASTIC clutch.. but you may be prone to roasting it with your application. I would look at the LPX if you wanted a similar engagement but stronger/more resistant to heat clutch.. or Mantic twin disc metallic.
5W50 is what I put in my boosted 5.0.

Let us know if we can help out at all with a quote or further information.
I'll be honest, I've never been a fan of centri SCs. Do PD chargers run hotter than centrifugal ones? Or is it more that a PD charger stresses the engine more than a centrifugal?

Thank you for the advice on the clutch, oil pump and oil grade! Looks like if I get a blower, I'll be switching fo Amsoil or Mobil 1 since Pennzoil doesn't make full synthetic 5w-50.

Going to guess your not going to get a ton of first hand info on this forum. The aftermarket setups are so proven and reliable that most people don’t piece together setups like DOB. I was intrigued by to DOB setup but ultimately decided to go with a Whipple setup.
Gotcha, I figured as much. Which set up did you go with? And anything you would suggest getting in addition?

vmp was selling their complete gen2r kit for 5500, id just go with that
Looking at their site, it looks like the budget kit is 5.5k, anything that I should get to round out the reliability? Seems like a very barebones kit.
 

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HourlyB

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I should also add, the Mustang has had a lot of suspension work done to it and is running on larger tires. Here's a complete list;
  • Ford Performance Track Shock and Strut kit
  • Steeda Front Roll Center and Bumpsteer kit
  • Steeda Rear Lower Control Arm Spherical Bearings
  • BMR Rear Cradle Lockout kit
  • BMR Rear Shock Mount
  • BMR Handling Springs
  • SVE R357 Wheels (19x10 all around)
  • Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 (285/35R19)
  • Ford Performance Strut Tower Brace

Next spring I plan to install Track Pack Brembo front brakes and put in a BMR adjustable sway bar. Any of these mods change the recommendations?
 

BrianH87

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PD blowers absolutely run hotter than Centris. And they also hit hard down low, which can break things. But I wouldn't let that deter you from owning one. Plenty of them running around with no issues. My opinion would be, whatever one you pick, go with a proven system. Especially since reliability is at the top of your list. I personally ended up with a Procharger. But I had a Roush kit on my 14. So I have experience with both.
 

Logan@Lethal

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I'll be honest, I've never been a fan of centri SCs. Do PD chargers run hotter than centrifugal ones? Or is it more that a PD charger stresses the engine more than a centrifugal?

Thank you for the advice on the clutch, oil pump and oil grade! Looks like if I get a blower, I'll be switching fo Amsoil or Mobil 1 since Pennzoil doesn't make full synthetic 5w-50.



Gotcha, I figured as much. Which set up did you go with? And anything you would suggest getting in addition?



Looking at their site, it looks like the budget kit is 5.5k, anything that I should get to round out the reliability? Seems like a very barebones kit.
Centrifugal superchargers dissipate heat very well.

I personally have a Whippled '20, so if you have any questions regarding either setup, feel free to reach out.
 
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HourlyB

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Centrifugal superchargers dissipate heat very well.

I personally have a Whippled '20, so if you have any questions regarding either setup, feel free to reach out.
Hmmm, it would also be nice to not have to throw out a pretty much new tower brace. Or get a new hood.
IDK, centris always felt like the "correct" answer to the FI question, but they just don't sound as good as a Roots, TS or a turbo. PDs banshee wail, turbos whistle and shudder but centris just kinda go EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE and woooooosh. Monkey brain no like EEEE and woosh.

For both set ups, how much does maintenance change? Would I be halving my maintenance periods or would they remain the same? Also would the tires be up to having that much more power put through them, or would they break traction? So far they have been solid, just making sure.

PD blowers absolutely run hotter than Centris. And they also hit hard down low, which can break things. But I wouldn't let that deter you from owning one. Plenty of them running around with no issues. My opinion would be, whatever one you pick, go with a proven system. Especially since reliability is at the top of your list. I personally ended up with a Procharger. But I had a Roush kit on my 14. So I have experience with both.
This is directed at both Logan and you, but what is the difference between the driving characteristics from a PD charger and a centri? People say that centris "lag" more than a PD at low RPM, how noticeable is that? Or is it a situation of just shift down and it/you disappear?
 

Dalton91

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"This is directed at both Logan and you, but what is the difference between the driving characteristics from a PD charger and a centri? People say that centris "lag" more than a PD at low RPM, how noticeable is that? Or is it a situation of just shift down and it/you disappear?"

I'm interested in this info as well... Understand the differences but in "real world" situation, with A10 trans, will I be struggling with daily driving, stop light and throttle etc with the PD? I drive aggressive but don't want to find myself spinning the tires during normal driving and I think that with a centri, it won't be as bad. ??? thoughts? thanks
 

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Logan@Lethal

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Centrifugal superchargers follow a linear powerband (think stock.. but a lot more power). The A10 shifts incredibly fast for a traditional automatic and sustains high RPM's through the shifts. It is a blast to drive.
With that being said, you traditionally have a much lower torque threshold with a centrifugal blower. This will help with "spinning the tires" though.
 
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HourlyB

HourlyB

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Centrifugal superchargers follow a linear powerband (think stock.. but a lot more power). The A10 shifts incredibly fast for a traditional automatic and sustains high RPM's through the shifts. It is a blast to drive.
With that being said, you traditionally have a much lower torque threshold with a centrifugal blower. This will help with "spinning the tires" though.
I've always heard that the PD chargers are pretty much just a flat boost to the HP/TQ figure due to the charger being volumetric (i.e boost is a constant), but a centri is more like a turbo in that it requires spooling to deliver more boost.
So going by the lethalperformance site, for a PC HO set-up, I would be looking at ~$7.9k with a Boundary Oil pump gear and camshaft sprocket set and some "extras". (Lund tune, thermometer & Brisk sparkplugs) A Whipple will run about $8.6k for a similar set up.
So the PC/centri set up;
  • More easily reversible
  • Can still run a improved IM
  • Keep certain upgrades
  • Better heat characteristics
  • Cheaper
  • Stealth element
Whipple/PD;
  • Sounds better
  • Looks better
  • More even power delivery
Anything else I missed?

Edit: IDK how it screwed up the formatting that bad.
 
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sigintel

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Tracked a Whippled 2015 for two seasons 6R80.
For continuous 20minute lap sessions, I had to go from 3.625 up to 4.0
Whipple tune was reliable.
Would have been interested in testing a centri as they can be found on road courses as well with softer torque curves easier to hook up at the limit on corner exit.
Started running various other turbo cars and next Stang toy will be TT instead of SC for track use.

Just focus on keep peak temps on track in the 235-240 range CHT and expect losing cyl 7 or 8 spending extended time at WOT at 245 and higher.
 

illtal

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"This is directed at both Logan and you, but what is the difference between the driving characteristics from a PD charger and a centri? People say that centris "lag" more than a PD at low RPM, how noticeable is that? Or is it a situation of just shift down and it/you disappear?"

I'm interested in this info as well... Understand the differences but in "real world" situation, with A10 trans, will I be struggling with daily driving, stop light and throttle etc with the PD? I drive aggressive but don't want to find myself spinning the tires during normal driving and I think that with a centri, it won't be as bad. ??? thoughts? thanks
I wouldn't say there's a "Lag" like a turbo per se, remember centri is still belt driven, It just doesn't make boost as fast (but quicker than a turbo) as a TVS or a Screw type with the TVS being the quickest. I've had 4 pounds of boost at 2500 RPM once I took of the pill on the bypass hose. As someone said think stock just more all across the powerband.

You should probably ask for rides in a centri, screw, and tvs style blower cars to understand the delivery differences

obviously, if you shift down the RPMs go up and you can make boost on that (centri) set up.
 
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HourlyB

HourlyB

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Tracked a Whippled 2015 for two seasons 6R80.
For continuous 20minute lap sessions, I had to go from 3.625 up to 4.0
Whipple tune was reliable.
Would have been interested in testing a centri as they can be found on road courses as well with softer torque curves easier to hook up at the limit on corner exit.
Started running various other turbo cars and next Stang toy will be TT instead of SC for track use.

Just focus on keep peak temps on track in the 235-240 range CHT and expect losing cyl 7 or 8 spending extended time at WOT at 245 and higher.
What was your setup? Looking at Whipple's site, a 4 in pulley is good for about 9 psi on 91, while a 3.625 is about 12 psi. Also most sites say the standard pulley for the 2.9L Stage 1 on a 2015 is 3.75.

I wouldn't say there's a "Lag" like a turbo per se, remember centri is still belt driven, It just doesn't make boost as fast (but quicker than a turbo) as a TVS or a Screw type with the TVS being the quickest. I've had 4 pounds of boost at 2500 RPM once I took of the pill on the bypass hose. As someone said think stock just more all across the powerband.

You should probably ask for rides in a centri, screw, and tvs style blower cars to understand the delivery differences

obviously, if you shift down the RPMs go up and you can make boost on that (centri) set up.
Wish I knew where they were lol. Most of the FI cars in NE are summer only cars that make about 850 hp on 104. Not daily drivers.
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