Winter Storage Mega-thread and Recommendations from Owners Manual

[Tank]

I did a forum search and didn't see that the recommended steps for winter storage were discussed. Apologies if it had.

I plan on following the steps as recommended in the Mustang Owners Manual for my GT350 this winter. I'm gonna fill with ethanol free, 91 octane unleaded that's available in my area. I have a CTEK 3300 and will be installing their 'comfort connector' once I figure out which one. My driveway is 60 ft. long and goes unsalted so where Ford recommends moving it 25 ft., I should be all set. It will be inside an old garage under a portable garage that provide UV protection. Any thoughts or modifications to this procedure? Thanks in advance:cheers:

VEHICLE STORAGE*
If you plan on storing your vehicle for 30 days or more, read the following maintenance recommendations to make sure your vehicle stays in good operating condition. We engineer and test all motor vehicles and their components for reliable, regular driving. Under various conditions, long-term storage may lead to degraded engine performance or failure unless you use specific precautions to preserve engine components.
General
• Store all vehicles in a dry, ventilated place.
• Protect from sunlight, if possible.
• If vehicles are stored outside, they require regular maintenance to protect against rust and damage.

Body
• Wash your vehicle thoroughly to remove dirt, grease, oil, tar or mud from exterior surfaces, rear-wheel housing and the underside of front fenders.
• Periodically wash your vehicle if it is stored in exposed locations.
• Touch-up exposed or primed metal to prevent rust.
• Cover chrome and stainless steel parts with a thick coat of auto wax to prevent discoloration. Re-wax as necessary when you wash your vehicle.
• Lubricate all hood, door and luggage compartment hinges and latches with a light grade oil.
• Cover interior trim to prevent fading.
• Keep all rubber parts free from oil and solvents.

Engine
• Change the engine oil and filter prior to storage because used engine oil contains contaminates which may cause engine damage.
• Start the engine every 15 days for a minimum of 15 minutes. Run at fast idle with the climate controls set to defrost until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.

Vehicle Care
• With your foot on the brake, shift through all the gears while the engine is running.
• We recommend that you change the engine oil before you use your vehicle again.

Fuel system
• Fill the fuel tank with high-quality fuel until the first automatic shutoff of the fuel pump nozzle.

Cooling system
• Protect against freezing temperatures.
• When removing your vehicle from storage, check coolant fluid level. Confirm that there are no cooling system leaks and that fluid is at the recommended level.

Battery
• Check and recharge as necessary. Keep connections clean.
• If storing your vehicle for more than 30 days without recharging the battery, we recommend that you disconnect the battery cables to maintain battery charge for quick starting. Note: It is necessary to reset memory features if battery cables are disconnected.

Brakes
• Make sure the brakes and parking brake release fully.

Tires
• Maintain recommended air pressure.

Miscellaneous
• Make sure all linkages, cables, levers and pins under your vehicle are covered with grease to prevent rust.
• Move vehicles at least 25 ft (7.5 m) every 15 days to lubricate working parts and prevent corrosion.

Removing Vehicle from Storage
When your vehicle is ready to come out of storage, do the following:
• Wash your vehicle to remove any dirt or grease film build-up on window surfaces.
• Check windshield wipers for any deterioration.
• Check under the hood for any foreign material that may have collected during storage such as mice or squirrel nests.
• Check the exhaust for any foreign material that may have collected during storage.
• Check tire pressures and set tire inflation per the Tire Label.
• Check brake pedal operation. Drive your vehicle 15 ft. (4.5 m) back and forth to remove rust build-up.
• Check fluid levels (including coolant, oil and gas) to make sure there are no leaks, and fluids are at recommended levels.
• If you remove the battery, clean the battery cable ends and check for damage. Contact an authorized dealer if you have any concerns or issues.

*Mustang (CZG) Canada/United States of America, Vehicles Built From: 13-07-2015 Vehicles Built Up To: 01-05-2016, enUSA, Edition date: 10/2015, Second Printing

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[SchultzLT1]

That seems intense.

 

[CliffClavin]

Full tank of fuel, oil change, battery tender, wash and cover for me. I think running the car for short periods of time does more harm than good. This is the way I have stored vehicles for the last 15 years and I have never had a problem.

 

[montreal ponies]

That list seems a bit exhaustive for those that will be storing their cars inside heated garages like me.

Also changing the oil prior to storing the car is fine and makes total sense, but changing it before driving it again in the Spring is a bit overdoing it.

 

[nastang87xx]

Do you guys put your cars up on jack stands or remove the wheels and tires? This winter will be the first time I will ever be storing a car I actually give a damn about.

 

[montreal ponies]

Do you guys put your cars up on jack stands or remove the wheels and tires? This winter will be the first time I will ever be storing a car I actually give a damn about.

I always leave all my stored cars on their wheels, i move them a foot or so every now and then to avoid flat spotting the tires. Also i can whenever i want drive the car out the garage and have the engine run until it gets up to temp.

 

[J_Maher_AMG]

That list seems a bit exhaustive for those that will be storing their cars inside heated garages like me.

Also changing the oil prior to storing the car is fine and makes total sense, but changing it before driving it again in the Spring is a bit overdoing it.

I will be changing mine twice for sure. Synthetic oil is like anything, even if it isn't used, it still uses some of its effectiveness over time. Its like a carton of milk. Just because you don't drink it, don't mean it doesn't go "bad" ;)

In fact, most off-road toys like dirt bikes and such recommend this very procedure, of changing the oil before and after storage, as a "flush" that ensure all contaminants have been removed prior to usage. I think $120 is a small price to pay for extra piece of mind on a very high performance engine, especially when we don't really know how well it will in regards to reliability over time

 

[J_Maher_AMG]

Do you guys put your cars up on jack stands or remove the wheels and tires? This winter will be the first time I will ever be storing a car I actually give a damn about.

A lot of people recommend inflating the tires to near the max operating pressure prior to storage to also help reduce flat spotting. This is probably more of an issue honestly with the R and the Sport Cup 2's where the tires are just so dam soft and pliable. I will be purchasing a set of "flat stoppers" from Race Ramps to store mine on. Some may say its a waste or not needed, but I would rather be safe than sorry ;)

Also, if you do leave the car on jackstands, yes do remove the wheels and tires. Not good to leave the suspension hanging with the wheel and tire weight for long periods of time like that.

 

[kairojya]

I think it's a catch 22 with idling the car to warm every so often while it's stored: http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/a19086/warming-up-your-car-in-the-cold-just-harms-engine/

If you don't run the car you risk corrosion internally (I guess?), though I wonder how bad it can get on the scale of a few months. If you do just idle it to operating temp once in awhile then you risk diluting the oil with fuel and whatever other bad things that article (just citing one source, there are plenty) discusses.

I haven't lived anywhere where I've had to store vehicles for the winter, but I've often had multiple vehicles. Those that don't get driven much, I used to crank them and idle them for a bit thinking I was doing good "keeping them running". Now I just try to take them for a short drive, 20~ min or so instead, and I disconnect the battery while they sit parked (outside). I guess this is something you can't do in places that have actual winters lol

 

[havasu486]

Full tank of fuel, oil change, battery tender, wash and cover for me. I think running the car for short periods of time does more harm than good. This is the way I have stored vehicles for the last 15 years and I have never had a problem.

Same as above but I also have the BMR jacking rails so my car sits on jackstands as well. No big deal the weight being displaced over the length of the rail and not sitting on pinch welds.

 

[Big Sky]

I store mine in heated shop. However, every 3 weeks or so I start it and move it outside for at least 30 min. I want full operating temp so the thermostat opens and circulates the coolant and since I have automatic transmission, I also go thru the gears multiple times. When put back in shop a battery tender is again connected.

 

[stshoo]

Good gas (ie non ethanol if you can find it), My dad (and I for shorter time) have been storing cars for over 30 yrs during the winter and they only get started if they are going for service or to a car show - I agree it does more harm than good - ie see all stories about letting your car warm up vs driving it right away.

Don't use mothballs, instead use dryer sheets - mice hate them and your car will smell fresh in the spring. Also a good idea to put them in the tailpipes as mice like to next in there.

Best not to have tires directly in contact with cold floor where moisture could condensate. We always park the cars on the thick landscape plastic. This way if your floor sweats, it's not sitting under your car - especially on a low car like this where you won't get much breathing or if you share a garage with a daily car that comes in wet and full of salt. This is why a lot of barn finds that are kept in dry barns with dirt floors actually last.

Battery tender and normally pull the battery and put it inside to stay warm.

If the oil is used, generally change it before it gets put away (sucks to do it on a high volume car) and in the spring. Used oil collects moisture.

 

[Blue Raptor]

Oil change, full tank with Sta-bil added, disconnect battery, cover. I also don't believe in intermittent starts.

 

[torque124]

the only thing that *could* happening if sitting too long and very humid and cold environment, is rust on some engine components ... like rings . I have seen surface rust on my older cars sitting throughout the winter.
It's probably my only concern on a non-started engine for longer than 30 days...

 

[Minn19]

That seems intense.

I guess after winterizing a fishing boat the last six years it doesn't seem too bad. Looks imposing until you get into it and it isn't that bad.

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