Rear Lowering Springs Clunk

[Semi]

So I installed lowering springs, knockoff bmr lockout kit and koni yellows a week or 2 ago.

I heard the clunks right away, but naively thought maybe the springs needed to settle in or whatever other excuse I could have for my poor mechanical skills.

At first I didn't adjust the koni's and I know they're all the way to the lowest setting from the factory. When I had them out of the box I could compress them in my hands whereas the stock pp shock I could hardly move.

When I went to get it aligned I turned the shocks 2 and a quarter turns to the left or right, I forget based on a video I saw. It didn't change much.

Is the clunk possibly because the shocks aren't tight enough on resistance? That's my guess, just wanted your opinion.

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[jbailer]

For the springs, the most important part is that you got them seated correctly with the end of the spring against the stop in the seat. For the shocks, it's making sure you got the first nut torqued down properly by holing the top of the shock rod with a wrench so it doesn't turn then lock the locking nut down on it. Make sure you got the order of the parts correct when assembling the Konis. I can't help you with the BMR part, no experience there.

For the Koni adjustment, it will make no difference with noise, that is a separate problem. You'll probably want them adjusted at about 1/2 turn from full soft. That's a good place to start anyways.

 

[Semi]

The solution ended up being the tires need to have some pressure on the ground when torqueing the shock mounts.

I hadn't torqued the top shock mounts correctly. I remember reading someone saying the replaced the steeda top shock mounts and it fixed this problem. In all likelihood they probably did the same thing I did. Thanks for the response

 

[Dsquared]

The solution ended up being the tires need to have some pressure on the ground when torqueing the shock mounts.

I hadn't torqued the top shock mounts correctly. I remember reading someone saying the replaced the steeda top shock mounts and it fixed this problem. In all likelihood they probably did the same thing I did. Thanks for the response

Having the same issue, installed BMR lowering springs, vert links, cradle lockout and toe links. I was good w/ no noise at all for about a month, after hitting a small pothole, now I'm hearing a clunking sound out of the right rear wheel well. When I first start and drive, I hear nothing, within 15 minutes I'm hearing the clunking at low speeds, then noticeably louder at higher speeds. I'm hoping torquing the strut mounts takes care of the issue.

 

[scott_0]

a guy on another forum had rear clunking as well, he replaced his sway bar end links and the clunking cleared up, I have it and think I may try some BMR end links

 

[wildcatgoal]

I installed the real CB005 and some BMR springs for a guy a couple weekends ago... zero clunks after a quick 50 feet of driving as it all settled, all the work was done in the air. His alignment shop clocked the bushings. Suggest to folks that you put a thin layer of silicone grease on the rubber isolators top and bottom to let the slight settling of things happen much easier when the car is first dropped to the ground and as everything settles in the first mile or so of driving. Seems to be a great preventative solution. I always also final torque the front strut nut and the three mounting bolts with full weight on the car.

 

[Memphis-EcoStang]

If you removed the endlinks to make it easier to install the springs, check to make sure they are tight, I had a clunk was driving me nuts, turned out I had not tightened down the end link, went away immediately, just something else to check.

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