Rear Convertible Speaker Clearance

[petemossmorrone]

I am considering using the back speaker locations for 2 6.5" subs. Has anyone measured the clearance behind the speaker .... ie how deep a speaker can i put in there?

I looked all over the forums but cant find anyone that has measured it.

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[SWallace]

Crap, I was just in there replacing mine with Polk DB651's the other night. I had about a quarter inch of clearance to the closest thing behind if I recall. It was really easy to get in there. Would only take literally a min to remove the two panels.

All of that said, the speakers sit in a plastic bracket without much int he way of a cavity behind them. I didn't get any improvement in bass with the DB's. Just better clarity. I know they aren't subs, but I think you are going to be disappointed with subs in there.

Just my two cents.

Do you have the 9 speaker? Mine was the 9. I added a JL MicroSub in the trunk.

 

[petemossmorrone]

so with the polks installed you had only about a qtr inch?

I know that some folks take the old speaker and rip out the guts and use the outside ring as a kind of spacer...adding about an inch of clearance. Did you do that or mount them directly to the main plastic brace that the old speakers were bolted to?

Did you use the adapter plates the polks usually come with?

Thanks...i have the 9 speaker setup. Thinking of 1 of two things...

Leave everything stock and just replace the 3.5" speakers (doors and center) with full range and perhaps kill the tweaters as well...then put some better speakers in the back (like your polks)

Or

RIp out the amp, set the head unit to give me line out and kill all the noise cancelation stuff. Then Put in a micro amp (like the cerwin vega 5 channel bomber b54...and make a 2 way in the front (some 6.5" mid woofer...dayton, sb, gr or silver flute) and a full range 3" for the highs. Then use the rear locations for some 6.5" low profile subs just to take on the 80 hz and down. Totaly non optimal location and that plastic bracket makes me nervous.

 

[SWallace]

I used the bracket that Polk provides. I had to tweak it a little by drilling out two extra holes to line up with the factory bracket.

I bought a set of Polk DB6501's to do the tweeter and 6.5 in the front. I'm not going to use the cross over for the tweeter but put a cap on it to tune it. I also bought three Dayton Audio 3.5's for the mids in the door and dash. I really don't want to go and do an amp and run new wires for the speakers.

That said, this factory system is the worst I've heard in a while. One thing I learned after I installed my sub us that Ford dramatically cuts the bass as soon as you unlatch the top. It is done in the DSP within the AMP. I had to use Forescan and edit the DSP setting and use a coupe's config. Took a fair amount of time to find that.

 

[petemossmorrone]

I used the bracket that Polk provides. I had to tweak it a little by drilling out two extra holes to line up with the factory bracket.

I bought a set of Polk DB6501's to do the tweeter and 6.5 in the front. I'm not going to use the cross over for the tweeter but put a cap on it to tune it. I also bought three Dayton Audio 3.5's for the mids in the door and dash. I really don't want to go and do an amp and run new wires for the speakers.

That said, this factory system is the worst I've heard in a while. One thing I learned after I installed my sub us that Ford dramatically cuts the bass as soon as you unlatch the top. It is done in the DSP within the AMP. I had to use Forescan and edit the DSP setting and use a coupe's config. Took a fair amount of time to find that.

Do you remember what in forscan you changed?

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