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Rear brakes pads- any tool needed for piston?

pmr2000

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Need to change rear pads on my 2016 GT base model- is there any special tool needed to rotate or compress the pistons due to emergency brake? If anyone has screenshots of the factory manual procedure that would be great!

Have not done rear yet, unlike the front looks like standard remove a bolt and flip up the caliper type of change.

Thanks in advance.
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kz

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Need to change rear pads on my 2016 GT base model- is there any special tool needed to rotate or compress the pistons due to emergency brake? If anyone has screenshots of the factory manual procedure that would be great!

Have not done rear yet, unlike the front looks like standard remove a bolt and flip up the caliper type of change.

Thanks in advance.
Rear pistons rotate - you need fairly standard tool to "unrotate" them back - every parts store has them.

https://www.amazon.com/OrionMotorTe...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
 

Ebm

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Need to change rear pads on my 2016 GT base model- is there any special tool needed to rotate or compress the pistons due to emergency brake? If anyone has screenshots of the factory manual procedure that would be great!

Have not done rear yet, unlike the front looks like standard remove a bolt and flip up the caliper type of change.

Thanks in advance.
Like KZ said, you can go to Autozone, Advance, O'Reilly's, or NAPA and they will have the disc brake caliper tool for you to buy. Make sure it's the tool that rotates your piston as it is being pushed back.

You can rent the tool at Autozone, Advance, and O'Reilly's. But it is fairly inexpensive and you can use it on other vehicles. I just bought one.
 

Cobra Jet

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Here is the R&R process for the rear brakes for GT, EB or V6 (excluding GT350/350R) and also the rear parking brake adjustment instructions:
CC80F853-3FB4-414B-9462-DD993423FCBA.jpeg
AF1B7B91-7022-4FC0-8B47-42E2CD07E9B9.jpeg
1CB6205F-D46C-463E-B0A0-CEEEAD967493.jpeg
EA91E683-91B5-40D4-8647-1055EDAAA3E8.jpeg
A88B2624-8F24-4A7F-B6D4-ADFDAC22B431.jpeg
 
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pmr2000

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Thanks guys think I will pick up a kit can use it on my other cars!
 

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pmr2000

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Does anyone know if you typically turn the piston right to compress? Or do they both turn towards the back of the car?

Left clockwise, right counterclock wise?
 

Ebm

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Does anyone know if you typically turn the piston right to compress?
I believe the left rear side is clockwise to compress and the right rear side is counter clockwise to compress.
 
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pmr2000

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I did my front recently the brake pads had a extra thin metal plate sandwiched between piston and back of pad.

Should this be reused?

Also do you guys use any of the brake quiet stuff between the back of pad and pistons?

Thanks again.
 

TexasRebel

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I did my front recently the brake pads had a extra thin metal plate sandwiched between piston and back of pad.

Should this be reused?

Also do you guys use any of the brake quiet stuff between the back of pad and pistons?

Thanks again.
Needle nosed pliers work just fine as a rotation/compress tool.

The new pads should have all of the pieces they need.

By "brake quiet" stuff, if you mean high-temp pad grease... yes. Put it on any contact point that isn't a friction surface.
 

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Ebm

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The thin
I did my front recently the brake pads had a extra thin metal plate sandwiched between piston and back of pad.

Should this be reused?

Also do you guys use any of the brake quiet stuff between the back of pad and pistons?

Thanks again.
New brake pads usually come with the "thin metal piece" you are talking about. They are called abutment clips. They go in between the caliper bracket and brake pad and provide a uniform surface for the brake pads to make contact with. They also keep vibrations away. Those squeals or noises you hear from perfectly good brakes are because of vibrations. Don't reuse your old abutment clips as they could be fatigued or have rust. Always use new.
 
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pmr2000

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Thanks!
 

smoke_wagon_6g

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you can also use a C-Clamp, works just as well.
Not on rear pistons in my experience.

lot of bad advice and some good.
I've lost count of my rear brake jobs, many cars, many years.
My two cents on this Mustang.

Use the correct tool that simultaneously pushes and rotates, careful not to pinch and rip the piston boot. Wipe down and lube the boot first! The proper tool is a lot cheaper than your time when you fail to retract the piston sufficiently and have to run to the parts store or Amazon.

I've used needlenose pliers, the stupid little cube tool and even a C-clamp over the years. Worked okay on my Nissan and Subarus, not here.

Techs must also be making expensive errors because these pads in the box included beautiful directions. They state to rotate the piston clockwise regardless of side. And to bottom out the piston first before indexing the notch vertical on the piston face. I don't know why but they wouldn't bother to place this caution unless it mattered.

Please just follow the manual the rest of the way.

This is old but Google lands on this thread so it should be accurate.
 
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NightmareMoon

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you can also use a C-Clamp, works just as well.
No you absolutely can't use a C-clamp on the rear pistons. Won't work AT ALL. Pressure will not compress them, they rotate.

They rotate to retract in the usual way (clockwise). You can use a pair of needle nose pliers in a pinch if you don't have the tool, but you'd rather have the tool.
 

TX-2019-Black_GT

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No you absolutely can't use a C-clamp on the rear pistons. Won't work AT ALL. Pressure will not compress them, they rotate.

They rotate to retract in the usual way (clockwise). You can use a pair of needle nose pliers in a pinch if you don't have the tool, but you'd rather have the tool.
Nightmaremoon is right, they 'screw in' (clockwise) to co,press / make room for new pads. Both sides rotate the same direction. The Ford service manual picture shows CCW rotation, which is wrong. I've done mine twice, the second time was 2 days ago.

Anyone have problems with the rubber seal not retracting and/or getting torn? I think I need to rebuild, or moisture will get in fast.
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