Rattle over curbs and bumps with Steeda suspension

[TireSlayer]

I have a 2019 Mustang Gt. I am getting a rattle over bumps and pulling out of my driveway only. Here is my list of parts installed. I thought the issue was front at first. Then i laid down my back seat and definitely heard it from the rear.

• Steeda Mustang IRS Subframe Bushing Support System
• Steeda Mustang IRS Subframe Alignment Kit
• Steeda Mustang Billet Aluminum Vertical Links
• Steeda Mustang IRS Subframe Support Braces
• Steeda Mustang Adjustable Rear Toe Links
• Steeda rear sway bar with billet bushings
• Steeda rear sway bar endlinks
• Steeds front coilovers with camber plates.
• Steeda front sway bar with billet bushing.
• Steeda front sway bar adjustable end links.

Conservative alignment. Non performance pack specs. One Inch drop on all 4 corners. While eyeballing the rear height. Seems left side could be 1/4 inch higher in height.

20 inch MRR M600 10 inch front and 11 inch rear. 275/35 - 305/35 <-- I know this has nothing to do with it. Rattle was happening on stock wheels


I torqued every single bolt on the front and rear suspension to factory specs. The one thing I just thought of, I did not check if both sway bar endlinks are adjusted to same height. Im sure they are though. I adjusted all 4 shocks to the same rebound. Rear springs seem to be centered with weight on vehicle.

I am kind of out of ideas...Any thoughts?

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[SteedaTech]

I have a 2019 Mustang Gt. I am getting a rattle over bumps and pulling out of my driveway only. Here is my list of parts installed. I thought the issue was front at first. Then i laid down my back seat and definitely heard it from the rear.

• Steeda Mustang IRS Subframe Bushing Support System
• Steeda Mustang IRS Subframe Alignment Kit
• Steeda Mustang Billet Aluminum Vertical Links
• Steeda Mustang IRS Subframe Support Braces
• Steeda Mustang Adjustable Rear Toe Links
• Steeda rear sway bar with billet bushings
• Steeda rear sway bar endlinks
• Steeds front coilovers with camber plates.
• Steeda front sway bar with billet bushing.
• Steeda front sway bar adjustable end links.

Conservative alignment. Non performance pack specs. One Inch drop on all 4 corners. While eyeballing the rear height. Seems left side could be 1/4 inch higher in height.

20 inch MRR M600 10 inch front and 11 inch rear. 275/35 - 305/35 <-- I know this has nothing to do with it. Rattle was happening on stock wheels


I torqued every single bolt on the front and rear suspension to factory specs. The one thing I just thought of, I did not check if both sway bar endlinks are adjusted to same height. Im sure they are though. I adjusted all 4 shocks to the same rebound. Rear springs seem to be centered with weight on vehicle.

I am kind of out of ideas...Any thoughts?

Re-Check your rear sway bar end-links are torqued to spec.

Steeda tech

 

[EFI]

Also check the top bolt that secures the camber plates. I left that a little loose during my install and I would get nasty clunking that all went away when I tightened it down.

 

[TireSlayer]

Re-Check your rear sway bar end-links are torqued to spec.

Steeda tech

I torque those to specs.. But I will do it again soon

 

[TireSlayer]

Endlinks checked again... same issue.

I am using the factory upper shock mount. I remember having to drill a hole it to make the steeda shocks fit. Could this be it?

 

[NightmareMoon]

Thread title says rattle when going over bumps and curbs. I’d think that after the first one you might have a couple of rattles.

In all seriousness, I have a lot of Steeda parts in my suspension and I have a small inconsistent noise from the right rear which isn’t the (stock) endlink, and I suspect the Steeda shock mount, but haven’t been serious enough to swap it out because the top nuts were almost as large as the opening they sit in, I know I didn’t like torquing them down the first time because the wrenches kept slipping off and I am avoiding going back in there. If I go back in to fiddle with them, even if they seem solid, I’m not sure I’d put them back on the car anyway just because of that design detail. Currently that corner pf the car has been quiet but it was making noises not that long ago and seems to be a little weather sensitive. I thought it was a loose body panel for a while, because Ford bumpers.

I did have an issue with a Steeda front control arm which they replaced under warranty, but that was the opposite corner and the play was found on an alignment rack, and didn’t make noticeable noises.

 

[TireSlayer]

Thread title says rattle when going over bumps and curbs. I’d think that after the first one you might have a couple of rattles.

In all seriousness, I have a lot of Steeda parts in my suspension and I have a small inconsistent noise from the right rear which isn’t the (stock) endlink, and I suspect the Steeda shock mount, but haven’t been serious enough to swap it out because the top nuts were almost as large as the opening they sit in, I know I didn’t like torquing them down the first time because the wrenches kept slipping off and I am avoiding going back in there. If I go back in to fiddle with them, even if they seem solid, I’m not sure I’d put them back on the car anyway just because of that design detail. Currently that corner pf the car has been quiet but it was making noises not that long ago and seems to be a little weather sensitive. I thought it was a loose body panel for a while, because Ford bumpers.

I did have an issue with a Steeda front control arm which they replaced under warranty, but that was the opposite corner and the play was found on an alignment rack, and didn’t make noticeable noises.

I do not have the Steeda rear shock mounts. I have the OEM stock mount. During install of the Steeda shock, you have to drill a 10mm-12mm hole in the OEM shock mount. I thought maybe it could be moving in that hole. Not sure

 

[moffetts]

For what it’s worth, improperly torquing the nut on the top of the shock is a common source of noise when people install the steeda shock mounts.

 

[NightmareMoon]

I do not have the Steeda rear shock mounts. I have the OEM stock mount. During install of the Steeda shock, you have to drill a 10mm-12mm hole in the OEM shock mount. I thought maybe it could be moving in that hole. Not sure

Ok ya, its less likely that the shock mounts are the culprit then. The stock mounts are typically pretty quiet. The Streeda parts are a balljoint and those can clunk if they go bad.

 

[TireSlayer]

I found a gap in the front IRS spacer on the top(right side of car.) No matter what... I can not close that Gap.. The left side of my car is fine and not issue. Was this something that the alignment shop goofed on? What can I adjust to fix that?

In the pictures. It sites like that with everything bolted up and with jack support.

 

[Cardude99]

I found a gap in the front IRS spacer on the top(right side of car.) No matter what... I can not close that Gap.. The left side of my car is fine and not issue. Was this something that the alignment shop goofed on? What can I adjust to fix that?

In the pictures. It sites like that with everything bolted up and with jack support.

Looks like it's not tightened down

 

[TireSlayer]

Looks like it's not tightened down

This ended up being the rear spacer was on the front. Spacer on the front is bigger. Corrected all. This eliminated a ton of the noise..

Today was my first day to drive it after the spacer fix. I still get a small rattle. When I leave work today, I am going to test it again.. maybe the suspensions needs to settle?

 

[Cardude99]

This ended up being the rear spacer was on the front. Spacer on the front is bigger. Corrected all. This eliminated a ton of the noise..

Today was my first day to drive it after the spacer fix. I still get a small rattle. When I leave work today, I am going to test it again.. maybe the suspensions needs to settle?

I had no rattle. Check all bolts to make sure everything torqued to spec. Double check things installed properly. That's the best advice I can give

 

[Det_Riot]

Check all the dumb things that got moved out of the way to install your parts. Parking brake bracket, caliper bolts, etc. Sometimes you can be certain that the parts were correct but getting to the parts might have been overlooken

 

[TireSlayer]

So i fixed that gap.. it was because the front spacer had the left side of the cars small spacer... this fixed alot of the heavy rattle. I still have a small rattle in the rear. So i bought the steeda rear mounts.. we will see..

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