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Question on trading with a tuned car and separate question on base pp1

jcl78

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I agree with NoVaGT, if you are going to jump, you have to make it count by getting Magneride.

Edit: and 301A, it is worth it.
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FirstGT

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I guess I should've clarified my statement:
You don't need drive mode switches. Get a tune. Just gas, clutch and brake.
My current car is tuned and there's still noticeable difference between drive modes and throttle mapping. So unless a non drive mode car which is tuned is similar to drive mode in sport, I'd still want drive modes. I guess maybe that's where a true custom tune comes in to play?

Either way I just need to go test drive next week and see what's what.
 

Zinc03svt

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I have a base PP1 car and love it. But, I had a new BDX waiting at home to tune before I picked up the car. Lol. So $450 for tuning was better deal for me (drag mode) than the 301a. The pp1 is a no brainer if your not drag only focussed. Had a loaded 14 GT/CS and do not miss all the extra options I never used. Jmo.
 

Jmtoast

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Starting to consider trading my 15 premium gt for 18 or 19 gt. Current car has lund flex tune. What's protocol for trade in? Flash it back to stock I assume?

Also on 18+ pp1 base gt, is there no drive modes? Seems on the base gt there aren't unless you get 301a. I'm assuming a pp1 that isn't 301a also has no drive mode? Seems to kinda defeat the purpose of the pp?

Lastly, if I wanted to lower the car is it stupid to get a pp1 if I'm lowering? I'd assume still a good buy due to larger radiator, brembo brakes etc. I'm 50 50 as is whether I'd lower
Drives modes are huge. Even after boost I still use them. Not as often due to drag mode and boost on the street is like being thrown at a wall. At 460hp Drag mode is a blast. If you're considering lowering then I assume the look of the car matters. If that's the case then you want the PP1. Brembos, tires, wheels look better. Unless you want to piecemeal all of that which while will look how you want but will be more expensive. Of course suspension pieces are a part of that and tires that allow you to enjoy the drag modes. Personally I don't see the point of drag modes without the ability to put the power to the ground. Even with coil overs, lowered, and Continental Extreme sports I would lose traction in drag mode regularly when I was stock. Just going from 1st to 2nd (A10 not manual) was a real kick in the butt with grip.
 

shogun32

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So unless a non drive mode car which is tuned is similar to drive mode in sport, I'd still want drive modes.
you ask your tuner to set whatever gradients you want.
I have a baseGT+PP+tune and an eco+PP+tune+drive_modes. The drive modes are quite noticeable on the Eco even with the tune. I've driven a GT+PP+modes (stock tune) and while there is a perceptible difference it's not as pronounced.

Unless you gotta have the torsion I would pass on the PP. The suspension isn't very good. The brakes and bracing can be sourced from BMR, Steeda, etc for a fraction of the outlay and you'll only buy once instead of twice. The MR is a considerable improvement over OE so this comes down to do you want Ford or Steeda suspension be it the adjustable or the new 'Active' setup.

You can swap seats with anyone who wants to take the leather off your hands. :)
 
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FirstGT

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I've found a couple options I may consider though nothing really local so I'll have to see how these dealers out of town are in negotiating over the phone.

Only thing local I'm liking is a new 18 premium. While not what I was looking for, if price is right it's a definite option.

Thank you for every one who put in actual input to my questions.
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