Question on trading with a tuned car and separate question on base pp1

[FirstGT]

Starting to consider trading my 15 premium gt for 18 or 19 gt. Current car has lund flex tune. What's protocol for trade in? Flash it back to stock I assume?

Also on 18+ pp1 base gt, is there no drive modes? Seems on the base gt there aren't unless you get 301a. I'm assuming a pp1 that isn't 301a also has no drive mode? Seems to kinda defeat the purpose of the pp?

Lastly, if I wanted to lower the car is it stupid to get a pp1 if I'm lowering? I'd assume still a good buy due to larger radiator, brembo brakes etc. I'm 50 50 as is whether I'd lower

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[Nagare]

If you don't have any mods that depend on the tune, flash it back to stock and either keep the tuner for the new car or sell it. If mods depend on the tune, keep it with the car when it's sold.

Drive modes come with the Sync 3 screen (the bezel has toggles on it). The lowest that comes on is 301A I believe.

Not stupid to lower a PP1, the other parts add up but on the 18+ cars it isn't as great of a value bundle as it was before. If you don't really need the other bits, might be better to buy base and then upgrade shocks+struts, but the PP is a good combination of bracing as well as the Torsen.

 

[Kermitz]

If you don't have any mods that depend on the tune, flash it back to stock and either keep the tuner for the new car or sell it. If mods depend on the tune, keep it with the car when it's sold.

Drive modes come with the Sync 3 screen (the bezel has toggles on it). The lowest that comes on is 301A I believe.

Not stupid to lower a PP1, the other parts add up but on the 18+ cars it isn't as great of a value bundle as it was before. If you don't really need the other bits, might be better to buy base and then upgrade shocks+struts, but the PP is a good combination of bracing as well as the Torsen.

^THIS.
You don't need drive mode switches. Just gas, clutch and brake.

 

[Bluemustang]

Just asking but why are you doing this? Much cheaper and better imo to just add mods to your 15. Mod it, drive it more, done. The 18+ has more performance but not enough imo to justify the hit on the trade in. Also, imo the 15 has a better looking body. Mod the suspension so you can get the power to the ground and handle the corners. You're still going to end up modding the 18 GT. Just curious what your reason is.

 

[FirstGT]

^THIS.
You don't need drive mode switches. Just gas, clutch and brake.

I see where you're coming from but I slightly disagree. The difference between normal and sport are pretty drastic imo. And I also shift smoother in sport, I think due to the way the engine reacts. Seems to not have rev hang as much and enables for me to shift better. Could be the tune though as I don't recall how it behaved without it

Just asking but why are you doing this? Much cheaper and better imo to just add mods to your 15. Mod it, drive it more, done. The 18+ has more performance but not enough imo to justify the hit on the trade in. Also, imo the 15 has a better looking body. Mod the suspension so you can get the power to the ground and handle the corners. You're still going to end up modding the 18 GT. Just curious what your reason is.

I've got too many hobbies to just continue dumping money in to this thing for one. I haven't bought anything for current car in over a year I'd guess. I was thinking that with 18s power it should be similar to mine as it currently sits. Also I'm finally out of warranty and for some reason that's weighing on me, though it never has bothered me with any vehicle in past.

I'm not taking a big hit on price. I'm second owner, bought car at a good price 2.5 years ago and SHOULD be well to the good when it comes to trade in. If I'm not and I get low balled, no harm no foul. I'll just keep it.

Edit: forgot to add, leather seats. I'm tired of leather seats. I've never liked leather seats in my vehicles. And even with my cooled seats they're still insanely hot. Yes I know, I could mod that too

 

[Ebm]

I see where you're coming from but I slightly disagree. The difference between normal and sport are pretty drastic imo. And I also shift smoother in sport, I think due to the way the engine reacts. Seems to not have rev hang as much and enables for me to shift better. Could be the tune though as I don't recall how it behaved without it


I've got too many hobbies to just continue dumping money in to this thing for one. I haven't bought anything for current car in over a year I'd guess. I was thinking that with 18s power it should be similar to mine as it currently sits. Also I'm finally out of warranty and for some reason that's weighing on me, though it never has bothered me with any vehicle in past.

I'm not taking a big hit on price. I'm second owner, bought car at a good price 2.5 years ago and SHOULD be well to the good when it comes to trade in. If I'm not and I get low balled, no harm no foul. I'll just keep it.

Edit: forgot to add, leather seats. I'm tired of leather seats. I've never liked leather seats in my vehicles. And even with my cooled seats they're still insanely hot. Yes I know, I could mod that too

Says the guy that is dumping more money in the car hobby by trading up. Don't you think it's cheaper to mod something that will be paid off soon rather than starting the cycle of payments again?

I get it. I know people who have an itch for something new or get bored and get a different car every few years. If you are trading up to get the A10 or something like that, it makes sense. But if you trade cars every few years, consider leasing or leaving what you buy stock so you don't take such a hit when trading in. Just something to think about. Mods for a car are very expensive and you almost never get that money back.

 

[onlyturbo]

I agree with above, keep the 2015... You will save money overall for sure, and you know what you have. If you are so worried about the warranty, just get another...

 

[FirstGT]

Says the guy that is dumping more money in the car hobby by trading up. Don't you think it's cheaper to mod something that will be paid off soon rather than starting the cycle of payments again?

I get it. I know people who have an itch for something new or get bored and get a different car every few years. If you are trading up to get the A10 or something like that, it makes sense. But if you trade cars every few years, consider leasing or leaving what you buy stock so you don't take such a hit when trading in. Just something to think about. Mods for a car are very expensive and you almost never get that money back.

I agree with above, keep the 2015... You will save money overall for sure, and you know what you have. If you are so worried about the warranty, just get another...

jesus Christ.i should've known better. anywhere in my post did I ask for financial advice? I drive 25 to 30k miles a year. keeping this car for 10 years or something like that isn't in the cards. I've got maybe 2k in to my car for mods, not chump change but far from modded to the teeth. I'm not upside down, should be far from it, payment could even drop lower. Who knows. That's all irrelevant to the questions at hand and will be decided by me if/when the time comes to move on a new(er) car.

the comment about dumping money in to it is in regards to continually modding it. I don't really want to go all out by dumping several thousand more in to modding it. that's adding more money to it I would rather allocate elsewhere.

is it really that hard to stick to the questions at hand? Seemed simple enough

 

[Ecoboosted]

Starting to consider trading my 15 premium gt for 18 or 19 gt. Current car has lund flex tune. What's protocol for trade in? Flash it back to stock I assume? Yes i would flash it back

Also on 18+ pp1 base gt, is there no drive modes? Seems on the base gt there aren't unless you get 301a. I'm assuming a pp1 that isn't 301a also has no drive mode? Seems to kinda defeat the purpose of the pp? I have the 301a and it has the drive modes. I don't think the base has drive modes.

Lastly, if I wanted to lower the car is it stupid to get a pp1 if I'm lowering? I'd assume still a good buy due to larger radiator, brembo brakes etc. I'm 50 50 as is whether I'd lowerYou can lower it even if it is a PP1. I had a 15 GT premium non PP and swapped the suspension for the Ford Racing Track Pack suspension which lowered it 1". With it being lowered it had too much negative camber so i had to get caster/camber plates. Honestly it rode crappy on the stock suspension because it felt "floaty" with the Track Pack suspension it hit bumps harder.

 

[Bluemustang]

jesus Christ.i should've known better. anywhere in my post did I ask for financial advice? I drive 25 to 30k miles a year. keeping this car for 10 years or something like that isn't in the cards. I've got maybe 2k in to my car for mods, not chump change but far from modded to the teeth. I'm not upside down, should be far from it, payment could even drop lower. Who knows. That's all irrelevant to the questions at hand and will be decided by me if/when the time comes to move on a new(er) car.

the comment about dumping money in to it is in regards to continually modding it. I don't really want to go all out by dumping several thousand more in to modding it. that's adding more money to it I would rather allocate elsewhere.

is it really that hard to stick to the questions at hand? Seemed simple enough

I certainly understand where you're coming from. I have had hobbies that eventually I don't have time for. This is all about your opinion and what works for you. I also didn't know that you weren't the 1st owner of the 2015 as that changes the money situation a bit.

I was just asking in my earlier post because I wanted to get a sense for your reasons. I would also consider that the 18-19 GT is a new engine. Personally if I were switching to a 18 or 19 GT I would get the PP at least for the Torsen, braces and brakes. And I'd keep the engine stock as 460hp is enough. If doing any modding, do suspension and wheel/tire upgrades.

If you want I say go for it.

 

[FirstGT]

thanks for the input

edit: whoops. meant to quote ecoboosted but failed apparently.

 

[FirstGT]

I certainly understand where you're coming from. I have had hobbies that eventually I don't have time for. This is all about your opinion and what works for you. I also didn't know that you weren't the 1st owner of the 2015 as that changes the money situation a bit.

I was just asking in my earlier post because I wanted to get a sense for your reasons. I would also consider that the 18-19 GT is a new engine. Personally if I were switching to a 18 or 19 GT I would get the PP at least for the Torsen, braces and brakes. And I'd keep the engine stock as 460hp is enough. If doing any modding, do suspension and wheel/tire upgrades.

If you want I say go for it.

I hear ya. I've only bought 2 brand new cars out of about 12 or 13 bc I hate to take the bath on the depreciation. And yeah that bit of info I left out does change the situation from a financial stand point. I just didn't put it in bc it wasn't relevant to the questions at hand but I see what you mean.

The plan mod wise for any new car would be a short list: short throw shifter and maybe exhaust and that would be it. Probably not even tune it. I never track my car and I don't street race so other than "bragging" rights about extra HP, tune doesn't really help me much. The PP add ons are appealing to me but again I don't know that I would really utilize them enough. I just need to go test drive a couple and see what's what I guess.

thanks for the input!

 

[TheSnowmanMafia]

^THIS.
You don't need drive mode switches. Just gas, clutch and brake.

Nah.... the throttle mapping in normal mode or non 301a/400a/401a cars is just dead. It's not linear and you REALLY have to push the pedal to give it gas.

It's annoying.

 

[Kermitz]

I guess I should've clarified my statement:
You don't need drive mode switches. Get a tune. Just gas, clutch and brake.

 

[NoVaGT]

Glossing over whatever the hell happened above this post;

If you've got the $$, just get the 301A with Magneride. It's really worth the money. The active exhaust is great too, but skipable. The stereo/Sync 3 alone is worth the cost of the 301A.

And yes, you flash your trade-in back to stock.

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