Question on stock exhaust bolts sticking down the chassis

[Elp_jc]

Hey gang, have 2 questions. Looking at the bottom of my car the other day, to see if the Steeda 'G' brace bar would stick down or not (it would, a little), noticed a long exhaust bolt on the left side of the car sticking straight down more than an inch, which could be dangerous if it hits something. It's right behind the cat, so obviously the one connecting the cat with the mid-pipe. CAN THAT CLAMP BE ROTATED??? If not, then I'd just cut the sucker with my Dremel, so it doesn't stick down... but much prefer being able to rotate the clamp. By the way, what's the torque for that bolt if it can be rotated? Thx.

The other 4 sticking down a little are the long clamps for the resonator. I don't think those can be rotated, for what I could see, but hope to be wrong . Those I'd probably leave alone if not able to rotate the clamps, since the bolts are sticking out of the nuts very little. Thank you.
JC

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[Stranger706]

My 2019 has that too, I noticed it when I was installing my MF catback and meant to play with it. Then I lowered the car and forgot about it. It looks exactly like the clamps from MF. Kind of an after thought on Fords part? Looks like they missed a weld and threw a huge clamp on there last minute.

Oh and you are correct the large resonator clamps cannot be rotated they have a cutout that only fits one way.

 

[sabtaj1]

Mine was bugging me too. Long tubes fixed the problem. LOL

 

[Elp_jc]

Okay folks, so there's nothing we can do with the resonator clamps, but at least they're not sticking down much. The more concerning one is the other bolt, so when I change the oil, will take a closer look and see if the clamp has a notch, or tack-welded. If that's the case, will just cut the bolt. The threads will be messed up a little, but removing the nut would fix that, so not an issue. Plus most of the times you just want to loosen the nuts, not remove them. If it can be rotated, will do that, but need the torque value, to put it back to factory specs. Thank you. Oh, and also need the resonator clamps torque value, since I want to remove the exhaust to paint the ugly cans with flat black paint I already bought. Thank you.

 

[Elp_jc]

Nobody has the torque for ALL of those clamp bolts???

 

[sabtaj1]

No idea. Just cranked mine down. Lol

 

[ice445]

Nobody has the torque for ALL of those clamp bolts???

Gutentight works here.

 

[Elp_jc]

It should be specified in the service manual, right? Hopefully somebody with it will chime in soon .

 

[Mustang_Lou]

I think you're being way to concerned but if no one finds a tq value, you can always put your tq wrench on and tighten it until the wrench stops clicking - adjust up obviously as you go. When it start turning and stops clicking, that's your reading.

 

[OF5.0]

It should be specified in the service manual, right? Hopefully somebody with it will chime in soon .

Steeda’s X- and H-pipe instructions state to torque the bolts to 50-55 lb-ft. However, the service manual states 35 lb-ft:

 

[Elp_jc]

you can always put your tq wrench on and tighten it until the wrench stops clicking.

That wouldn't be accurate; It takes quite a bit more force to start the nuts going (static friction). Plus the car being close to a year old, the nut is probably harder to move now than when new, further increasing the initial torque needed to start moving it. But thanks for the idea anyway .

However, the service manual states 35 lb-ft

Thanks a lot brother; that's exactly what I was looking for. I assume it's the same for the other clamp on the left side, which hope I can rotate upward. And yes, 55 ft/lbs seems quite high to me, but if they're suggesting that, the clamps and pipes might be able to take it if needed. I might mark the nuts before touching them to see if the 35 ft/lbs puts them more or less where they were before.

 

[OF5.0]

That wouldn't be accurate; It takes quite a bit more force to start the nuts going (static friction). Plus the car being close to a year old, the nut is probably harder to move now than when new, further increasing the initial torque needed to start moving it. But thanks for the idea anyway .


Thanks a lot brother; that's exactly what I was looking for. I assume it's the same for the other clamp on the left side, which hope I can rotate upward. And yes, 55 ft/lbs seems quite high to me, but if they're suggesting that, the clamps and pipes might be able to take it if needed. I might mark the nuts before touching them to see if the 35 ft/lbs puts them more or less where they were before.

You do not want to rotate those clamps. The forward resonator connection (clamps) are butted connections, not slip joints.The tabs on the clamps make sure that the two pipe sections stay together via the nubs on the pipes. If the clamps are rotated and they are loose or vibrate loose, you will have an exhaust leak. I just replaced my resonator with a X-pipe. Those clamps and bolts don’t sit low at all.

 

[Elp_jc]

You do not want to rotate those clamps.

Indeed. I will only rotate the one on the driver's side, ahead of the resonator. And if I can't rotate it, will cut the excess bolt. The resonator bolts barely stick down, so not a big deal, as I mentioned before. I didn't think they could be rotated at all anyway, but thank you for confirming that.

 

[IrishStallion]

lol...

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