Question for guys who actually have the the Roush Kit

SH!FT

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Thanks for the advice! I was already looking at the Max cooling kit and a radiator upgrade because I live in Phoenix. Guess I may need to add the pillar gauge pod as I already have the Shelby Gauge Pod to add Oil and Intake temps. I just installed the Fuel Pressure sensor last night after waiting for a new fuel rail adapter to arrive. The boost gauge awaits the SC install. I installed these so I could get baselines. I am doing all of the prep work first before I add the SC so, subframe supports, half shafts, clutch, etc. is going in and the SC is the very last piece.

1673011943362.png
Take a look at the factory gauge cluster options available which would free up space in your Shelby gauge pod. Although.. that pod does look super clean with all the same brand gauges in it.

You can use FORScan to add a factory boost gauge. How-to video

Another option is repurposing the center vent.
1673129831403.png
1673130278789.png

I made a short how-to here:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/boosted-and-interchillin.170024/post-3587101
 

bassbaritoneca

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Take a look at the factory gauge cluster options available which would free up space in your Shelby gauge pod. Although.. that pod does look super clean with all the same brand gauges in it.

You can use FORScan to add a factory boost gauge. How-to video

Another option is repurposing the center vent.
1673129831403.png
1673130278789.png

I made a short how-to here:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/boosted-and-interchillin.170024/post-3587101
I actually chose the Shelby Gauge Pod because I didn't want to mess with cutting up the HVAC for a cleaner install. I only needed to cut the speaker cover in the center and that is a reality easier part to replace and is pretty cheap. I almost did the factory gauge setup. I also spoke with Shelby about any options for different gauges in the pod but, the pod only comes one way unless you are buying a super snake - bummer. However, I can put any gauges I want in the pod that are 2 1/16. I didn't really want to use the pillars either but, that might be the cleanest approach. I did notice a way to run gauges behind the steering wheel that I may consider. The goal with the interior was to make it look like it might have come from the factory.

When I was out with the car club today, a lot of guys didn't notice the steering wheel and though it just came with the factory package because it matched the seats perfectly. Some even asked if the carbon fiber was an option. So, I think I got the interior just right.

1673137238414.png


1673136926383.png
 

SH!FT

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I actually chose the Shelby Gauge Pod because I didn't want to mess with cutting up the HVAC for a cleaner install. I only needed to cut the speaker cover in the center and that is a reality easier part to replace and is pretty cheap. I almost did the factory gauge setup. I also spoke with Shelby about any options for different gauges in the pod but, the pod only comes one way unless you are buying a super snake - bummer. However, I can put any gauges I want in the pod that are 2 1/16. I didn't really want to use the pillars either but, that might be the cleanest approach. I did notice a way to run gauges behind the steering wheel that I may consider. The goal with the interior was to make it look like it might have come from the factory.

When I was out with the car club today, a lot of guys didn't notice the steering wheel and though it just came with the factory package because it matched the seats perfectly. Some even asked if the carbon fiber was an option. So, I think I got the interior just right.

1673137238414.png


1673136926383.png
I'm not thrilled with the look of the vent gauge either. I like things to look OEM as well. Your's looks great.

Glow Shift sells a vent insert so no cutting necessary.
https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/air-vent-single-gauge-pod-for-2015-2021-ford-mustang/

A-pillar pods aren't a bad option, but it's tough to find factory quality. It sticks out like a sore thumb from inside and outside the car when the pillars don't match. I lucked out and found one made from the factory pillar for my Subaru.
1673139806067.png
 

bassbaritoneca

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I'm not thrilled with the look of the vent gauge either. I like things to look OEM as well. Your's looks great.

Glow Shift sells a vent insert so no cutting necessary.
https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/air-vent-single-gauge-pod-for-2015-2021-ford-mustang/

A-pillar pods aren't a bad option, but it's tough to find factory quality. It sticks out like a sore thumb from inside and outside the car when the pillars don't match. I lucked out and found one made from the factory pillar for my Subaru.
1673139806067.png
I have seen the gauges in the vents and I just don't like them. I really was on the fence about doing the performance pack gauges in the dash with the GT350 gauges. Took me about 6 months to decide after a ton of research. I might just get a mechanical liquid filled fuel pressure gauge and get it setup somewhere in the engine bay and then replace the cobalt gauge in the pod and call it a day.
 

JBird

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Very generic question. I have an E85 fuel system and H/E going in this winter. Currently tuned on 91 since it's all we have. Are 90/70 gains reasonable?.. just trying to keep my expectations in check as I'm anxiously waiting. Thanks.
 

SH!FT

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I have seen the gauges in the vents and I just don't like them. I really was on the fence about doing the performance pack gauges in the dash with the GT350 gauges. Took me about 6 months to decide after a ton of research. I might just get a mechanical liquid filled fuel pressure gauge and get it setup somewhere in the engine bay and then replace the cobalt gauge in the pod and call it a day.
I don't disagree. The vent gauge definitely doesn't look great.

If you're ok with going digital, the OBDII port offers access to display a bunch of the factory PIDs.

List of what the AeroForce interceptor gauge can interpret via OBDII:
1673290824873.png


What Roush offers for DMR datalogging via the OBDII:
1673290926146.png
 

bassbaritoneca

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I don't disagree. The vent gauge definitely doesn't look great.

If you're ok with going digital, the OBDII port offers access to display a bunch of the factory PIDs.

List of what the AeroForce interceptor gauge can interpret via OBDII:
1673290824873.png


What Roush offers for DMR datalogging via the OBDII:
1673290926146.png
much appreciated!!
 

Navymike

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Lots of updates

the 103 tb can fit under the stock hood, the adapter that comes with the throttle body needs to be redesigned, which it currently is, even after that you have to shave some of the throttle body electronic cover off, part of the cam cover and a little bit of the bolt, remove the hood blanket and I lowered the motor 1/4 with the poly motor mounts I have. I also made a 4” intake to better fit the TB

with that said everything clears, the data logs have shown that on a 88mm pulley I’m seeing 10.3-10.5lbs up top, that’s with the cnc blower, ported lower and long tubes with no cats

timing is peaking at 20 degrees on 93, with the knock sensors adding 3.5 degrees

The PWR brick is dropping IAT durning the pulls. My starting temps have been in the 90s and consistently drop 4-5 degrees by the end of the pull

the car is a animal and quite frankly scares me

BC560CD1-DAB8-49BD-BFB3-B003EEE239FC.jpeg


466ECF3F-BBA2-426D-A80C-B5229C0105D3.jpeg


C2BE98DB-900B-4B86-B187-D8EB87CF2060.jpeg


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6A4D1C3F-9E87-4D05-94B3-7E4D599E1353.jpeg
 
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Stymee

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Lots of updates

the 103 tb can fit under the stock hood, the adapter that comes with the throttle body needs to be redesigned, which it currently is, even after that you have to shave some of the throttle body electronic cover off, part of the cam cover and a little bit of the bolt, remove the hood blanket and I lowered the motor 1/4 with the poly motor mounts I have. I also made a 4” intake to better fit the TB

with that said everything clears, the data logs have shown that on a 88mm pulley I’m seeing 10.3-10.5lbs up top, that’s with the cnc blower, ported lower and long tubes with no cats

timing is peaking at 20 degrees on 93, with the knock sensors adding 3.5 degrees

The PWR brick is dropping IAT durning the pulls. My starting temps have been in the 90s and consistently drop 4-5 degrees by the end of the pull

the car is a animal and quite frankly scares me

BC560CD1-DAB8-49BD-BFB3-B003EEE239FC.jpeg


466ECF3F-BBA2-426D-A80C-B5229C0105D3.jpeg


C2BE98DB-900B-4B86-B187-D8EB87CF2060.jpeg


83DAFBE7-5A9D-45CB-B75D-A439FA9010DF.jpeg


6A4D1C3F-9E87-4D05-94B3-7E4D599E1353.jpeg
Honestly do u think the bigger TB is worth the hassle? Point being at 11lbs on say E85 with the New Brick and Headers & No Cats I would think it would still be PLENTY scary.

Obviously porting helps too but lets say u didn't do that either. A non catted E85 Roush with the Better Brick may be a bad ass little combo at 11lbs?

Awesome post by the way, looking forward to seeing your results (ET OR DYNO)
 

Navymike

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Honestly do u think the bigger TB is worth the hassle? Point being at 11lbs on say E85 with the New Brick and Headers & No Cats I would think it would still be PLENTY scary.

Obviously porting helps too but lets say u didn't do that either. A non catted E85 Roush with the Better Brick may be a bad ass little combo at 11lbs?

Awesome post by the way, looking forward to seeing your results (ET OR DYNO)
Is it needed? Not really at my boost level no I don’t think so, but it was part of the porting service so I wanted to give it a shot, PD blower do pick up quite a bit from larger TB, plus if I ever step it up and say going 15lbs or so it will be ready.
 
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Stymee

Stymee

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Is it needed? Not really at my boost level no I don’t think so, but it was part of the porting service so I wanted to give it a shot, PD blower do pick up quite a bit from larger TB, plus if I ever step it up and say going 15lbs or so it will be ready.
Makes perfect sense when u see how Whipple gives you the big boy TB on the Stage II for the peeps looking to eventually step up the boost

That said I still bet a non ported Roush with that brick, better ic pump and 11lbs would be bad little setup on a 93/Octanium mix

Very Impressive setup on your Car. By the way what State are you in, just curious?
 

Navymike

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Makes perfect sense when u see how Whipple gives you the big boy TB on the Stage II for the peeps looking to eventually step up the boost

That said I still bet a non ported Roush with that brick, better ic pump and 11lbs would be bad little setup on a 93/Octanium mix

Very Impressive setup on your Car. By the way what State are you in, just curious?
I’m in VA

I have some Boostane that I plan on running pretty much every tank, it’s not knocking now but I just like to play it safe
 

m3incorp

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I got the code for a malfunctioning catalyst converter today, so will make an appointment to take it in and have it replaced.
 

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A big reason I got rid of my 19 Roush Stage 3 running the Phase 2 calibration was too many P0420/P0430 cat codes and had 3 cats replaced on the drivers side and 2 on the passenger side. That’s ridiculous.
 

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I just had to have my driver side replaced at 12k miles, supercharger was installed at 5k.
 
 
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