Question for guys who actually have the the Roush Kit

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Stymee

Stymee

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Whipple guy is me.

OPG/CS stock
Axles stock
Driveshaft stock
Stock exhaust manifolds
Stock catalytic converters in place
Stock cat back
Stock throttle body
Stock transmission
Stock springs
Stock shocks
Stock front wheels and tires

Whipple stage 1.
X pipe
BMR cradle lock out
MT ET Street R 305/45/17
93 octane
7,800rpm shift points
PBD tuned.

best pass was 10.3 @ 136mph. There is a hesitation on the 1-2 shift. That will be addressed this week, car goes back to the shop Monday. Definitely has 10.20’s in it the way it sits.
Car is amazing, such a mild combo
Very impressed with your car

Great meeting u guys, had a ball
 

brucelinc

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Very impressive, Evolution! Thanks for sharing the info!
 

Meatball

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brucelinc, I’ve been following your posts since I’m in sort of a similar situation: Want to go FI and particularly concerned about reliability/warranty, if I have that right. Some big differences too (I have a 15-17, 6M and my car won’t see a drag strip).

I was also thinking Roush, in my case mostly because I suspect their kit is the most reliable due to strong warranty and relationship w/ Ford. Even w phase (stage?) 2 727 crank hp sounds pretty awesome and I’m guessing would still be reliable (for FI). But I’m locked out of that choice in a canned tune since I have the unfortunate combo of a 17 car in a carb state (no EO, and Roush simply won’t send a calibration). But if that weren’t the case I’d seriously consider it, even with the old tvs 2300. More for longer term reliability than warranty since I want to keep the car well past 3/36.

I’m leaning Whipple though I know I’m guessing it’s a bit less conservative / harder on the powertrain (riskier?). I like the v high power with the 50-state street legal kits, and the fact that the owner can essentially adjust the aggressiveness of the tune whenever they want through Flight Control, in a bunch of ways.

I don’t know, that’s what I’m thinking. Going to be interesting to see what you and Stymee do...
 
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Stymee

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brucelinc, I’ve been following your posts since I’m in sort of a similar situation: Want to go FI and particularly concerned about reliability/warranty, if I have that right. Some big differences too (I have a 15-17, 6M and my car won’t see a drag strip).

I was also thinking Roush, in my case mostly because I suspect their kit is the most reliable due to strong warranty and relationship w/ Ford. Even w phase (stage?) 2 727 crank hp sounds pretty awesome and I’m guessing would still be reliable (for FI). But I’m locked out of that choice in a canned tune since I have the unfortunate combo of a 17 car in a carb state (no EO, and Roush simply won’t send a calibration). But if that weren’t the case I’d seriously consider it, even with the old tvs 2300. More for longer term reliability than warranty since I want to keep the car well past 3/36.

I’m leaning Whipple though I know I’m guessing it’s a bit less conservative / harder on the powertrain (riskier?). I like the v high power with the 50-state street legal kits, and the fact that the owner can essentially adjust the aggressiveness of the tune whenever they want through Flight Control, in a bunch of ways.

I don’t know, that’s what I’m thinking. Going to be interesting to see what you and Stymee do...

It’s really a shame u cant run the Roush Kit, 15-17 Roush Kit is very good, no heat issues like the 18+

I agree with your thinking about being married to ford through Roush too, it’s a win/win
 

brucelinc

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brucelinc, I’ve been following your posts since I’m in sort of a similar situation: Want to go FI and particularly concerned about reliability/warranty, if I have that right. Some big differences too (I have a 15-17, 6M and my car won’t see a drag strip).

I was also thinking Roush, in my case mostly because I suspect their kit is the most reliable due to strong warranty and relationship w/ Ford. Even w phase (stage?) 2 727 crank hp sounds pretty awesome and I’m guessing would still be reliable (for FI). But I’m locked out of that choice in a canned tune since I have the unfortunate combo of a 17 car in a carb state (no EO, and Roush simply won’t send a calibration). But if that weren’t the case I’d seriously consider it, even with the old tvs 2300. More for longer term reliability than warranty since I want to keep the car well past 3/36.

I’m leaning Whipple though I know I’m guessing it’s a bit less conservative / harder on the powertrain (riskier?). I like the v high power with the 50-state street legal kits, and the fact that the owner can essentially adjust the aggressiveness of the tune whenever they want through Flight Control, in a bunch of ways.

I don’t know, that’s what I’m thinking. Going to be interesting to see what you and Stymee do...
Warranty is more valuable to Stymee than to me since his car is almost new and mine will be 2 years old in May. Warranty is only good for 3 years from the date the car went into service. Having a year of warranty would be nice to have but not critical to me.

Two things are very important to me: I want drivability to be as good as stock...smooth idle, no surging, no stalling and good transmission behavior. Secondly, I want a reasonable level of reliability and engine longevity without the need to upgrade internals. I think the Roush checks both of those boxes and that is why I am considering it. A third reason I like Roush is that I would not have to mess with a third vendor to get a custom tune. (Supercharger purchase, installer, tuner = 3 different vendors) I think most competitor's canned tunes are either lacking in good drivability or in engine reliability/longevity.

I do drag race all summer so if Roush has not drastically improved their performance in warm conditions, they are off the table. I do prefer the Eaton 2.65 TVS type supercharger so VMP and an Edelbrock tuner kit are high on my list. Both require dealing with a custom tuner....not my favorite thing but I have done it before and can do it again.
 
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Warranty is more valuable to Stymee than to me since his car is almost new and mine will be 2 years old in May. Warranty is only good for 3 years from the date the car went into service. Having a year of warranty would be nice to have but not critical to me.

Two things are very important to me: I want drivability to be as good as stock...smooth idle, no surging, no stalling and good transmission behavior. Secondly, I want a reasonable level of reliability and engine longevity without the need to upgrade internals. I think the Roush checks both of those boxes and that is why I am considering it. A third reason I like Roush is that I would not have to mess with a third vendor to get a custom tune. (Supercharger purchase, installer, tuner = 3 different vendors) I think most competitor's canned tunes are either lacking in good drivability or in engine reliability/longevity.

I do drag race all summer so if Roush has not drastically improved their performance in warm conditions, they are off the table. I do prefer the Eaton 2.65 TVS type supercharger so VMP and an Edelbrock tuner kit are high on my list. Both require dealing with a custom tuner....not my favorite thing but I have done it before and can do it again.
Bruce makes an excellent point, if u already have 15-20k miles on your car the warranty is basically mute

From the looks of it a Stage 1 of either EB, Whipple or upcoming VMP at 9lbs tuned by Lund with a 7200 shift pint should run and drive just fine.

But like Bruce said, I love the idea of going Roush as a package, letting a Roush dealer install it, load the tune and hand me my keys.

Bruce (EvoX) Whipple Stage 1 was so impressive, it idled perfectly, no surge and was quiet.

He ran low 10’s trapped 135-136 which imo is getting it done for a driver and his car is a true daily, very mild but with the devil’s blood coursing through its veins:like:
 

Meatball

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Warranty is more valuable to Stymee than to me since his car is almost new and mine will be 2 years old in May. Warranty is only good for 3 years from the date the car went into service. Having a year of warranty would be nice to have but not critical to me.

Two things are very important to me: I want drivability to be as good as stock...smooth idle, no surging, no stalling and good transmission behavior. Secondly, I want a reasonable level of reliability and engine longevity without the need to upgrade internals. I think the Roush checks both of those boxes and that is why I am considering it. A third reason I like Roush is that I would not have to mess with a third vendor to get a custom tune. (Supercharger purchase, installer, tuner = 3 different vendors) I think most competitor's canned tunes are either lacking in good drivability or in engine reliability/longevity.

I do drag race all summer so if Roush has not drastically improved their performance in warm conditions, they are off the table. I do prefer the Eaton 2.65 TVS type supercharger so VMP and an Edelbrock tuner kit are high on my list. Both require dealing with a custom tuner....not my favorite thing but I have done it before and can do it again.
Do you like the tvs2650 because of the superior low rpm power compared to a twin screw on the street?

Whipple certainly has out of the box power and potential. Maybe I’m wrong to assume that dialing things down in Flight Control is the same as going to a more conservative tune (safer). But if it is it seems pretty awesome to have huge power or a conservative tune at owners discretion right out of the box with no tuner involved (not that that’s bad).

Have you heard that the Whipple tune has driveability issues?

I probably should consider EB but I just like Whipple’s resources and history of improvement. EB is less expensive though...
 

Meatball

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Bruce makes an excellent point, if u already have 15-20k miles on your car the warranty is basically mute

From the looks of it a Stage 1 of either EB, Whipple or upcoming VMP at 9lbs tuned by Lund with a 7200 shift pint should run and drive just fine.

But like Bruce said, I love the idea of going Roush as a package, letting a Roush dealer install it, load the tune and hand me my keys.

Bruce (EvoX) Whipple Stage 1 was so impressive, it idled perfectly, no surge and was quiet.

He ran low 10’s trapped 135-136 which imo is getting it done for a driver and his car is a true daily, very mild but with the devil’s blood coursing through its veins:like:
For me tuning is a bit out of the question...I need to maintain my carb legal status. Otherwise I’d love to go PBD or Lund. They don’t deal with us sorry California cases now. AED does...

It’s a tough situation (first world problem). Spending around $10K and several good choices.
 

brucelinc

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This is only hearsay but I have heard it from several sources: The Whipple is an excellent supercharger but it puts more stress on the engine and pull on the crankshaft than the TVS system. It supposedly takes more power to turn it and creates a bit more vibration. Ford, Shelby and Roush use the TVS system on their factory supercharged vehicles....like the upcoming GT500. I think the Whipple tune provides decent drivability but there have been several cases of broken piston ring lands with their canned tune.

If I go custom tune, it will be with Lund...or VMP if I go with their supercharger. I have never dealt with either of these tuners and that makes me a little nervous. With my current tuner, Livernois, I get free tune revisions for life. If I want something specific....like revised shift points, for example..... all I have to do is ask. I can call them anytime and request changes if I like. Their flex fuel tune has given me superb drivability and 11.6 ET in 1200 DA with zero other mods except DRs. LIvernois seems to be a dirty word in most of the Mustang community but they have treated me well with 3 different vehicles in the past 10 years. They do not tune Supercharged Mustangs remotely, however.
 

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Very good point about Ford, Shelby and Roush choosing the inverted TVS. Obviously for them reliability is a huge financial consideration (as it is for us). My only 2650 choice for a gen2 Coyote is EB, right?. I just haven’t been paying attention to them but maybe some research is warranted...

Honestly the alternative I’ve been thinking of is Procharger, reliability wise. I don’t know if there’s merit to that, but a dedicated belt system (I think) and the more progressive boost build with rpm seems easier on the powertrain. That’s just an impression, I really don’t know if it’s an accurate thing to say. Generally lower boost and less complicated intercooling and heat soak too. But I’d miss the power at step-off and the spooling jet engine noise just doesn’t compare to that whine...

Why are neither of you (Stymee included) considering centris?
 
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Very good point about Ford, Shelby and Roush choosing the inverted TVS. Obviously for them reliability is a huge financial consideration (as it is for us). My only 2650 choice for a gen2 Coyote is EB, right?. I just haven’t been paying attention to them but maybe some research is warranted...

Honestly the alternative I’ve been thinking of is Procharger, reliability wise. I don’t know if there’s merit to that, but a dedicated belt system (I think) and the more progressive boost build with rpm seems easier on the powertrain. That’s just an impression, I really don’t know if it’s an accurate thing to say. Generally lower boost and less complicated intercooling and heat soak too. But I’d miss the power at step-off and the spooling jet engine noise just doesn’t compare to that whine...

Why are neither of you (Stymee included) considering centris?
Supposedly there’s more stress on the crank snout with a centri, and I like instant torque plus that whistle would drive me crazy after 2 weeks of driving the car.

For sure the whipple take more hp to turn and the Gen 5 rotor pack does have the power come on a bit later but that’s splitting hairs, u stand on a twin screw or a tvs and you have instant torque
 

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Thanks. I hope the R phase 2 ends up being a good option for you guys. Wish I had the choice!
 
 
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