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Project NO1CARES (5.2/YSI-B/TH400)

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If it's the stock 2.48 / 1.48 gear ratios I'd definitely go with 3.73.
Yes, it is stock geared. Im going to finish up all the little details with the swap this winter, along with cleaning up more of the engine bay, swapping the gears, and hopefully getting into a better suspension. I have a feeling a chassis won't be until next winter or so.
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The oil restrictions in the heads were removed and a basic plug installed to allow the use of the small hole head gaskets. I went to cometic for this and 12mm arp head studs.
134738649_10221064218853755_5857009144540780506_n.jpg
Curious about the reason for removing the oil restrictors in the heads ? .
 
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Curious about the reason for removing the oil restrictors in the heads ? .
In the gen 1 coyote, the oil restrictor was located in the head gasket. In gen 2, they went to a restrictor in the oil passage in front of the head. Unsure if there's any big benefit but it allowed me to run the much more available cometic head gaskets which includes the oil restrictor. So i simply knocked out the factory restrictor in the head and replaced it with a freeze plug. Based off theory, the hole in the head gaskets is bigger and allow more oil get to the phasers and valvetrain. but i did not do a measurement comparison.
 

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In the gen 1 coyote, the oil restrictor was located in the head gasket. In gen 2, they went to a restrictor in the oil passage in front of the head. Unsure if there's any big benefit but it allowed me to run the much more available cometic head gaskets which includes the oil restrictor. So i simply knocked out the factory restrictor in the head and replaced it with a freeze plug. Based off theory, the hole in the head gaskets is bigger and allow more oil get to the phasers and valvetrain. but i did not do a measurement comparison.
Thanks for the response and great build .

I see you had GT 350 heads at some point . Are you going to use them?
I have had oiling issues with them in the past due to the oil restrictors . You have to swap them to the GT ones if not using a GT 350 oil pump .
So may be just using the head gaskets with the bigger head restrictions is a better fix ?
 
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Thanks for the response and great build .

I see you had GT 350 heads at some point . Are you going to use them?
I have had oiling issues with them in the past due to the oil restrictors . You have to swap them to the GT ones if not using a GT 350 oil pump .
So may be just using the head gaskets with the bigger head restrictions is a better fix ?
I currently have a set of gt 350 heads sitting on the shelf at the machine shop waiting for me to start spending money again. I've cut back after doing the 400 swap until i'm ready.

But that would make sense. I know Chris Holbrook who balanced and blueprinted my 5.2 told me that he removed oil restrictors in all his heads and goes to the early small hole head gaskets. He's had best of luck this way and has proved it with records.
 
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Project update; Haven't touched the car in about two weeks. Currently pretty frustrated because with the Th400 install, the drive line angle has changed and caused the supercharger volute to rub my hood real bad and f*** up my fresh powder coat.

My game plan to fix this is going to be lowering the Engine/trans 1/8-1/4 of an inch using my bmr mounts and shimming the trans cross member. Should be an easy fix and that is as long as the driveshaft angle is still acceptable.
 

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Project update; Haven't touched the car in about two weeks. Currently pretty frustrated because with the Th400 install, the drive line angle has changed and caused the supercharger volute to rub my hood real bad and f*** up my fresh powder coat.

My game plan to fix this is going to be lowering the Engine/trans 1/8-1/4 of an inch using my bmr mounts and shimming the trans cross member. Should be an easy fix and that is as long as the driveshaft angle is still acceptable.
How about a bmr crossmember to lower and save weight.
 
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How about a bmr crossmember to lower and save weight.
I like the way you think but my budget is currently being rebuilt so that i can finish up my voodoo heads. I have BMR adjustable engine mounts so i shouldn't need to purchase anything to do the job.
 
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Update, went to drive the car on thanksgiving and the engine was not happy. Oil pressure was good and while idling, had no signs of an issue. But when the oil temp reached normal, i revved the engine to create some more heat up to 2k RPM and something was slapping/knocking. So I removed the engine last night, dropped the oil pan and began investigating. Not yet sure the direction i'm going to take and if i'm going to go ahead with the voodoo head install or just refresh the engine and slam it back together. Will know more once disassembly is complete.
 
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So after investigation, it was determined that i have a wrist pin/small end of the rod creating a lot of brass debris and that was where my noise was coming from. I removed all of the rod caps for investigation and verified the thrust bearing is still in perfect shape (this was my suspicion because i start hearing noise after the th400 install)

The game plan is now to take the engine back to Holbrook and let him review the short block assembly and diagnose. Considering this engine has 6k miles, 4 oil changes, and only street/dyno pulls on the engine. I really did not want to do this work in my garage due to how expensive this engine can get. I'll do ls and sbf work in my garage all day but the coyote game needs a clean room.

Here's some pictures of the bottom end. The one picture of the rod bearing is the only bearing concern that i found but feeling the rod/piston assembly in the bore makes me suspect that this rod is also the concern for the small end beginning to fail.

Pretty sure I got lucky and made the right call by just removing the engine. It would have failed on the next hard pull.
IMG_8180.jpg

IMG_8179.jpg

IMG_8177.jpg


Also having a hard time considering that this much heat was put into this counter weight to balance the assembly. This is also the same position on the crank that i found the questionable rod bearing and loose wrist pin..

Engine updates will come most likely next year.
 
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@80FoxCoupe Maybe you can chime in with your thoughts on my engine issue?

the concern when i pulled the engine, what sounded to me like piston slap on bank 2 front of the engine at 2k rpm and a lot of brass in the engine oil.
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