Killspray
Well-Known Member
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Pic heavy.... sorry
I run 1" bolt-on spacers on all 4 corners with my stock PP wheels with no issues. I purchased a square 19x11 setup from Project 6GR with a +50mm offset and planned to run no spacer in the rear and keep my 1" spacer up front. I noticed something was up when trying to torque down my front wheels. My torque wrench clicked on all 5 lug nuts but when I went around a 2nd time to be sure, I could tighten them a little more before it clicked again. So I went around a 3rd time.... a 4th time... each time, it would turn a little more then click. Were the studs on the spacers spinning? Was my torque wrench busted? Was I accidentally upping the torque on the torque wrench each time? I was getting frustrated and was eager to get these wheels mounted to take a test drive around the block. So, going against my better judgement, I went around the lugs once last time torqueing PAST the click to make sure they were tight. Since I was on baby duty taking care of my 8 month old daughter, my buddy [MENTION=14107]tyshenry[/MENTION] volunteered to take the car around the block and test out them 305 R-S3's! As soon as he took off down the street, I panicked because i saw my front right wheel wobbling like crazy. :eyebulge: I called Tyson on his phone 3 times in a row hoping he'd pick up but it was on silent. Luckily, Tyson felt the wobble and didn't get far before coming straight back. To our surprise, the front lug nuts had backed off such that you could spin them the rest of the way off with your bare hand.
We took our time and finally got them properly torqued down all the way and went on another test drive. This time they held up and the square 19x11 setup wrapped in 305's proved to be quite the improvement over the stock setup.
It wasn't until I dismounted the wheels several days later that I was able to know for sure what was going on.
The stock studs poke through the 1" bolt-on spacers. However, the recess in the stock PP wheels were large enough and deep enough to compensate. I noticed the Project 6GR wheels had recesses too and just assumed they were in the same location and that I could bolt them on with no issues. Nope. The stock studs were fouling on the wheel. This is why I was able to keep tightening and tightening the wheel. I was compressing the aluminum wheel against the factory studs and was damaging the wheel with every turn of the wrench.
My solution was to hammer out the studs pressed into the bolt-on spacer and replace the stock studs with extended ARP studs. Rather than pay over $100 for a set of (10) 14mm extended studs, I paid $33 for a set of (10) 1/2" extended studs.
I had some small open-ended 1/2" lug nuts but the hex was digging into the conical portion of both my stock wheels and the Project 6GR wheels. So I found some longer, bulge lug nuts that work perfectly.
Honestly, tracking the car with 1" bolt-on spacers up front is debatable to begin with. Extended studs is the way to go. I just wanted to document this so the next guy won't make my same mistake and get out on the road only for his wheel to fall off....
Pics below.
Damage to Strut After Some Wheel Wobble:
Factory Studs Poking Through 1” Bolt-On Spacer:
Factory PP Wheel Recess VS Project 6GR Recess:
Bolt-On Spacer Mod w/ Extended Studs:
Too Small of Lug Nut in Project 6GR Wheel (Hex Digging):
Too Small of Lug Nut in PP Wheel (Hex Digging, Not Enough Hex to Bite, Rounding):
New Lug Nuts:
New Lug Nuts in Project 6GR Wheels:
New Lug Nuts in PP Wheels:
You notice the damage that the hex did on the smaller lug nuts? See the metal shavings left over?
I run 1" bolt-on spacers on all 4 corners with my stock PP wheels with no issues. I purchased a square 19x11 setup from Project 6GR with a +50mm offset and planned to run no spacer in the rear and keep my 1" spacer up front. I noticed something was up when trying to torque down my front wheels. My torque wrench clicked on all 5 lug nuts but when I went around a 2nd time to be sure, I could tighten them a little more before it clicked again. So I went around a 3rd time.... a 4th time... each time, it would turn a little more then click. Were the studs on the spacers spinning? Was my torque wrench busted? Was I accidentally upping the torque on the torque wrench each time? I was getting frustrated and was eager to get these wheels mounted to take a test drive around the block. So, going against my better judgement, I went around the lugs once last time torqueing PAST the click to make sure they were tight. Since I was on baby duty taking care of my 8 month old daughter, my buddy [MENTION=14107]tyshenry[/MENTION] volunteered to take the car around the block and test out them 305 R-S3's! As soon as he took off down the street, I panicked because i saw my front right wheel wobbling like crazy. :eyebulge: I called Tyson on his phone 3 times in a row hoping he'd pick up but it was on silent. Luckily, Tyson felt the wobble and didn't get far before coming straight back. To our surprise, the front lug nuts had backed off such that you could spin them the rest of the way off with your bare hand.
We took our time and finally got them properly torqued down all the way and went on another test drive. This time they held up and the square 19x11 setup wrapped in 305's proved to be quite the improvement over the stock setup.
It wasn't until I dismounted the wheels several days later that I was able to know for sure what was going on.
The stock studs poke through the 1" bolt-on spacers. However, the recess in the stock PP wheels were large enough and deep enough to compensate. I noticed the Project 6GR wheels had recesses too and just assumed they were in the same location and that I could bolt them on with no issues. Nope. The stock studs were fouling on the wheel. This is why I was able to keep tightening and tightening the wheel. I was compressing the aluminum wheel against the factory studs and was damaging the wheel with every turn of the wrench.
My solution was to hammer out the studs pressed into the bolt-on spacer and replace the stock studs with extended ARP studs. Rather than pay over $100 for a set of (10) 14mm extended studs, I paid $33 for a set of (10) 1/2" extended studs.
I had some small open-ended 1/2" lug nuts but the hex was digging into the conical portion of both my stock wheels and the Project 6GR wheels. So I found some longer, bulge lug nuts that work perfectly.
Honestly, tracking the car with 1" bolt-on spacers up front is debatable to begin with. Extended studs is the way to go. I just wanted to document this so the next guy won't make my same mistake and get out on the road only for his wheel to fall off....
Pics below.
Damage to Strut After Some Wheel Wobble:
Factory Studs Poking Through 1” Bolt-On Spacer:
Factory PP Wheel Recess VS Project 6GR Recess:
Bolt-On Spacer Mod w/ Extended Studs:
Too Small of Lug Nut in Project 6GR Wheel (Hex Digging):
Too Small of Lug Nut in PP Wheel (Hex Digging, Not Enough Hex to Bite, Rounding):
New Lug Nuts:
New Lug Nuts in Project 6GR Wheels:
New Lug Nuts in PP Wheels:
You notice the damage that the hex did on the smaller lug nuts? See the metal shavings left over?
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