Procharged 2014 overheating issue HELP NEEDED

Jackson1320

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I Agree. In such a hot climate you should not run that low of a thermostat, the airflow and the efficiency of the radiator cooling will be none existent.
- Verify Cats are not clogged restricting flow, either remove (Best for Engine) or get a set of high flow cats which will flow enough for the FI boost you are using.
- Send your data log to a good tuner like Wengerd and see if they can see an issue which could cause overheating.
- Make sure all of the radiator shrouds, air deflectors, covers ETC are installed.
- Manually connect your radiator fans to an on-Off switch inside so you can turn them On-Off when racing or necessary.
- Make sure your AC is turning off under full throttle.
- Do a Pressure/drop down on your Coolant system to ensure their are no leaks (remove thermostat during test).
- Do a Cylinder Pressure Leak Down check not a Compression check, to see if all cylinders are within specs from each other.
- Bore scope your cylinders/Pistons and check for hot spots, uneven burning ETC.
- Make sure your hood vents are working and actually removing the engine compartment heat not trapping it.
- ** Mount a Digital Wifi Thermostat in your engine compartment and data log the engine bay temperatures during cruising and Hard pulls see if you see an issue.
Good luck
These are all good ideas but I’m not sure what some of them have to do with overheating. The car doesn’t overheat all winter so I’m thinking it’s not engine damage or cats. It just can’t dissipate enough heat. During the winter the radiator did not need as much airflow through the radiator because the air was much cooler. You don’t need as much air if it’s cold. You need a lot more air to cool if it’s warmer air.
I would like him to add a way to measure the airflow through the radiator if possible
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DougS550

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These are all good ideas but I’m not sure what some of them have to do with overheating. The car doesn’t overheat all winter so I’m thinking it’s not engine damage or cats. It just can’t dissipate enough heat. During the winter the radiator did not need as much airflow through the radiator because the air was much cooler. You don’t need as much air if it’s cold. You need a lot more air to cool if it’s warmer air.
I would like him to add a way to measure the airflow through the radiator if possible
in life, when everything else fails, you have to think outside the box and go for things you normally wouldn't think would cause a particular issue. And yes, all of those things I listed can and will cause overheating issues. Good luck
 

Inthehighdesert

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Please explain that. That makes absolutely no sense. I’m in NM, north of a hundred from end of May to end of Sept.We do not, nor have we ever left a 210 tstat in a vehicle that see’s any kind of real use during the summer. 160’s are the norm as are over sized radiators. Whipple as I’m sure just about every other company comes with low tstat as part of there kits.

I Agree. In such a hot climate you should not run that low of a thermostat, the airflow and the efficiency of the radiator cooling will be none existent.
 

Jackson1320

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in life, when everything else fails, you have to think outside the box and go for things you normally wouldn't think would cause a particular issue. And yes, all of those things I listed can and will cause overheating issues. Good luck
A leak down test is not going to help with overheating. Factory cats are better than high flow cats. And a lower thermostat is not going to have a negative effect on cooling. Just like taking it out won’t ether
 

K4fxd

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Just like taking it out won’t ether
Have not tried it on today's engines but back in the day we had to put a restrictor washer in the Tstat housing or they would overheat, Coolant was moving too fast to properly cool.
 

Inthehighdesert

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We use to drill bypass holes in the tstat's instead of completely removing them for the reason you stated.


Have not tried it on today's engines but back in the day we had to put a restrictor washer in the Tstat housing or they would overheat, Coolant was moving too fast to properly cool.
 

Jackson1320

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Have not tried it on today's engines but back in the day we had to put a restrictor washer in the Tstat housing or they would overheat, Coolant was moving too fast to properly cool.
Used to do that to race cars but I’ve never heard of anyone doing it on a street car. If you take out the thermostat on these cars it will cause it to not maintain operating temperature
 
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Procharged 5.0

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Alright well I installed this exact fan today and took the car out again. Same outcome. cylinder head temps got over 230 and coolant was around 220 all in a 15min drive and never going over 3500rpm or seeing any boost. also the outside air temp was only 95 degrees today which if 15 degrees cooler than last time i drove it.

the weird thing is the car runs and drives great. no symptoms of any engine damage at all. So i'm really at a loss at the moment.

Does anyone know if its possible to install the wrong head gasket or intall them incorrectly? that's the only thing I can think of right now
 

K4fxd

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There are 2 gaskets. Gen 1 and 2 use the same one, gen 3 uses a different one. I do not know if a gen 3 gasket will fit a gen 2.

I also know there is left and right

With no boost and driving 45 and faster you should not need a fan
 

ice445

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Alright well I installed this exact fan today and took the car out again. Same outcome. cylinder head temps got over 230 and coolant was around 220 all in a 15min drive and never going over 3500rpm or seeing any boost. also the outside air temp was only 95 degrees today which if 15 degrees cooler than last time i drove it.

the weird thing is the car runs and drives great. no symptoms of any engine damage at all. So i'm really at a loss at the moment.

Does anyone know if its possible to install the wrong head gasket or intall them incorrectly? that's the only thing I can think of right now
Definitely points to a mechanical issue of some kind. Airflow isn't even needed on these until a certain point, the factory cars have grille shutters that stay closed a lot of the time for efficiency reasons. Just cruising around even with a blower shouldn't even max out factory cooling, let alone what you have.

As far as the head gasket question, it is possible to install the wrong gasket and block cooling passages. I haven't seen the differences between the gen 2 and 3 heads, but I know it's possible on the ecoboost.
 

CJJon

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I don't think it is an outside temp issue. When the weather was cooler you didn't have a problem, but you certainly would have. So I don't think it was a bad install of a gasket. The car would have run hot from the start if that had been the case.

Something went bad, broke, etc.
 

DonnieO

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Once again I'll ask... have you removed the thermostat and tried driving? Does your water pump work?
 
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