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PP2 OWNER EXPERIENCES - RAVES/QUIRKS

Ron

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"Does anyone know what color or touch-up can be used if there's a stone chip in the OEM PP2 Wheel?"
The color is "Dark Tarnish". The paint code is available from any Ford dealer. Before picking up my Magnetic PP2 some time back, I asked if the dealer could paint the 5.0 & GT emblems the same color as the wheels ... he nailed it. :like:
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danno1

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The color is "Dark Tarnish". The paint code is available from any Ford dealer. Before picking up my Magnetic PP2 some time back, I asked if the dealer could paint the 5.0 & GT emblems the same color as the wheels ... he nailed it. :like:
They can just lookup that color? No VIN needed?
 

danno1

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I just called Ford about the Dark Tarnish. They have nothing coming up on it. I know it must be the color, but he tried a few ways to locate it. Do you have a paint code?
 

TicTocTach

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I just called Ford about the Dark Tarnish. They have nothing coming up on it. I know it must be the color, but he tried a few ways to locate it. Do you have a paint code?
If you have a local paint & body supply shop nearby, they can likely find the code or do an optical match for a custom mix. From there, they can probably mix a rattle can or touch up bottle for you. I have to do the same for some aftermarket wheels that donā€™t have a code.
 

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Ron

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"I just called Ford about the Dark Tarnish. They have nothing coming up on it. I know it must be the color, but he tried a few ways to locate it. Do you have a paint code?"
Any competent body shop can match ANY color from any part on any car from any year.

"Dark Tarnish" is the color description used for the PP2 wheels in the Ford Mustang brochure.
 

NYRangers2911

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ā€˜I went with a 20 x10 square..with +40 offset on 275/35/20 Nittos.
Did you need spacers up front? Iā€™m looking to go this exact setup just trying to make sure the front will not rub or hit the struts. Iā€™m lowered 1 inch on steed progressives. TIA
 

hemistar1

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Did you need spacers up front? Iā€™m looking to go this exact setup just trying to make sure the front will not rub or hit the struts. Iā€™m lowered 1 inch on steed progressives. TIA
My suspension is stock and the +40 works with the squared setup. No cutting, spacers or mods needed. I was able to bolt right up.

The car sits higher now and less space in between fender and tire. Just enough poke to look aggressive. No issues turning lock to lock.
 

Fly2High

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Anyone have RokBlox mud flaps on their car? I do. I seem to be getting some debris stuck between the fender and the mud flap. Anyone else have this going on?

What did you do to stop it?
 

Smunczen

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Anyone have RokBlox mud flaps on their car? I do. I seem to be getting some debris stuck between the fender and the mud flap. Anyone else have this going on?

What did you do to stop it?
Same issue here. I used some paint protection film behind mine before the install. I think some cut foam filling the space would help. The only issue with that could hold water.
 

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danno1

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Isn't there a way to keep the active exhaust in the mode you leave it before you shut off the car? I still would want the active exhaust. But not where it automatically starts up in quiet if I don't want to.
 

Schwerin

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Isn't there a way to keep the active exhaust in the mode you leave it before you shut off the car? I still would want the active exhaust. But not where it automatically starts up in quiet if I don't want to.
Nope.
Normal or Quiet is all you can set for startup.
 

mustang5o

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I can now confirm two things:

1) The OEM Ford rivets are pieces of shit. A quarter of mine didnā€™t grip right or at all.

2) The 6.3mm off-brands worked GREAT. After nuking a bunch of the OEM rivets, I ran down to Harbor freight and picked up two POM assortments. These were a world better - they snapped tight every time and were easier to use with the wonky POM tool. You need 21 rivets for the splitter and only 20 come in the pack, but two packs are only $20 so no heartburn.

Pro-tip: install ALL of the small screws first, leaving them loose. Then push in all of the rivets. Pop the rivets starting in the middle and tighten the screws when everything is done.

Pics of the HF rivet pack and the splitter job attached. Thanks again!

68E33F99-B5E7-4A4C-8915-9C4421C8B976.jpeg


B7968C88-A7C3-41A7-9348-8B319C2BD69B.jpeg
Do you happen to know what size bolt/screw to use for the splitter? I need to replace a few rivets and I think a couple of screws came out as well (or were never put in in the first place).

Thanks
 
 




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