PP2 OWNER EXPERIENCES - RAVES/QUIRKS

[Silver Bullitt]

I tracked the car and never had any issues with the diff. I choose not to track in July or August for many reasons.

Same here. Once with ambient in the 70’s and once in the 50’s. I was running a street tire both times (not the SC2’s), but no issues running 20 minute sessions pushing as hard as I could on the rubber I have.

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[Fly2High]

Little off topic (not the first time though) - is this just a simple swap from the stock one ? Or does it require any further modifications ? Do they have something that is close to size to stock but heavier ?

They have a narrower bore on the Raceseng knobs so you will need to replace the plastic stock reverse lockout. That requires you unscrew the old knob and carefully pry up the chrome ring around the bottom of the boot. I will admit that I broke my ring. They make the chrome part separate from a black mounting frame. when I pried it up, it split on one side. a little E6000 glue and it is better than new. To install the new reverse lockout, you split a glue joint on the OEM lockout to remove it from the boot. Open a stitch or two on each side and slide in the new lockout.

I think I am making it sound worse than it is. here is a video for installing the lockout and the knob

Reverse lockout install:


Knob install:


One thing I will say is that there was no way my OEM reverse lockout was going to come apart. They really glued mine together really well, that is until I got at it. Took almost an hour of very careful prying and cutting with an Xacto hobby knife before it came apart. The new one can never come apart and, with the narrower bore, I could also use shift knobs meant for other cars with reverse lockouts too should I ever want to change.

 

[kiksbutt]

They have a narrower bore on the Raceseng knobs so you will need to replace the plastic stock reverse lockout. That requires you unscrew the old knob and carefully pry up the chrome ring around the bottom of the boot. I will admit that I broke my ring. They make the chrome part separate from a black mounting frame. when I pried it up, it split on one side. a little E6000 glue and it is better than new. To install the new reverse lockout, you split a glue joint on the OEM lockout to remove it from the boot. Open a stich or two on each side and slide in the new lockout.

I think I am making it sound worse than it is. here is a video for installing the lockout and the knob

Reverse lockout install:


Knob install:


One thing I will say is that there was no way my OEM reverse lockout was going to come apart. They really glued mine together really well, that is until I got at it. Took almost an hour of very careful prying and cutting with an Xacto hobby knife before it came apart. The new one can never come apart and, with the narrower bore, I could also use shift knobs meant for other cars with reverse lockouts too should I ever want to change.

Also, if you're just looking to change knob, it's much easier to just snap on an adapter (they sell for $15 or so) and screw in knob. That's what I did and left everything else as is.

 

[Fly2High]

Also, if you're just looking to change knob, it's much easier to just snap on an adapter (they sell for $15 or so) and screw in knob. That's what I did and left everything else as is.

I was under the impression that you needed a 'Big Bore' knob to be able to do that. Not all the knobs come that way. Most require the adapter and the lockout. In fact all their knob require their adapter for mounting.

 

[kiksbutt]

I was under the impression that you needed a 'Big Bore' knob to be able to do that. Not all the knobs come that way. Most require the adapter and the lockout. In fact all their knob require their adapter for mounting.

Correct. I got the big bore and adapter. Took 2 mins to setup.

 

[kiksbutt]

Here’s a look

 

[Fly2High]

Here’s a look

very cool. reminiscent of a Bullitt knob.

I wanted the leather option because I heard all metal knob can get hot in the summer. Also like the chrome tie in with the rest of my interior.

Yeah, these cars really need more weight in the knob. Makes for a better feeling tranny.

 

[Ron]

"I wanted the leather option because I heard the an all metal knob can get hot in the summer."

Just a couple quick notes here ... Yes, the knob will get hot. As will the top half of the steering wheel. I stumbled across a quick fix when I discovered a 'sock' that a long gone pair of sunglasses came with. Works perfect when dropped over the shift knob. Very discreet & toss it in the console or glove box when not in use. As for the steering wheel, just a small hand towel will both keep it from heating up & from (over time) fading.

2nd note ... Leather shift knobs have that classic look &, as noted, do not get as hot as a metal/plastic knob. However, if you track a car, the metal/plastic knob will give you a better 'feel' (for lack the proper engineering term) of the transmission shift gate. It IS a more precise shifting instrument. Also, I have had a leather knob separate from the threaded insert. Not a big deal when just driving around a race track all day, but, if you are actually competing, it can have consequences. If I recall, a shift knob failure was depicted in the movie "Rush".

There is also the whole other issue of heavy v. light shift knobs, but, for now, we return you to our regularly scheduled program.

 

[Arknsawchuck]

Has there been any proof, other than use experience, that shows that the diff is overheating because of proximity to the exhaust?

I also wonder if high speed versus low speed driving has any part in overheating. What I mean is, your mods may have been enough because of the driving, in autocross or track, that you place on your car. I wonder if having more long straightaways and a less turn track might keep the diff cooler? The faster you go, the more air is running under the car and the less turns you have to make should keep it cooler I would think. If you have lots of hard accelerations from lots of turns, it might make the diff work harder. Also, it might expose it to less air flow keeping the heat up. Not sure if sustained high speed heats up a diff more of if it is lots of accelerations from lower speeds.

Not sure I know how to figure out if the exhaust plays a roll in this. I guess you could place a heat sensor by the diff and compare the temp around the diff with and without the wrap. This doesn't mean that the diff will not overheat. this just means that you have improved the temperature of the air around the diff and postponed when it will overheat. The diff is still heating up. Colder air around the diff will keep it cooler.

I saw a company that made a diff cover that had an air scoop at the bottom and would force the air up along the cooling fins on the back of the cover. Also, the inside of the cover was designed to extract heat better. Unfortunately, they did not make one for the Mustang. Only trucks so far as I could tell.

I would love to know what causes the overheating. Is another radiator and fan the only real solution? Not sure I love the idea of having that fan under the car. I would think it would be too easy, on a daily driver, for it to be damaged. If they were able to mount it in the front grill, I might be happier and less damage prone. of course, what cooling unit will it be behind preventing it from maximum cooling ability?

All good questions. The track I've been on only has one good straight stretch, rest is all turns with short stretches between. The pipes do run very close to the diff, not certain that is all the issue but only my daily driving it does run cooler now that it is wrapped. Even while doing spirited mountain runs. Of course I did a fluid change also for what thats worth.

 

[Fly2High]

Just a couple quick notes here ... Yes, the knob will get hot. As will the top half of the steering wheel. I stumbled across a quick fix when I discovered a 'sock' that a long gone pair of sunglasses came with. Works perfect when dropped over the shift knob. Very discreet & toss it in the console or glove box when not in use. As for the steering wheel, just a small hand towel will both keep it from heating up & from (over time) fading.

2nd note ... Leather shift knobs have that classic look &, as noted, do not get as hot as a metal/plastic knob. However, if you track a car, the metal/plastic knob will give you a better 'feel' (for lack the proper engineering term) of the transmission shift gate. It IS a more precise shifting instrument. Also, I have had a leather knob separate from the threaded insert. Not a big deal when just driving around a race track all day, but, if you are actually competing, it can have consequences. If I recall, a shift knob failure was depicted in the movie "Rush".

There is also the whole other issue of heavy v. light shift knobs, but, for now, we return you to our regularly scheduled program.

great information and thank you. Will need to move my detailing towel from the trunk into the car to cover the wheel. great ideas.

As for the Raceseng, it appears to be a solid aluminum block when viewed within the threads. There is a screw which holds the top cap on. Not sure how the bottom metal piece is attached. The top and bottom are what hold the leather in place. There is no plastic in this unit.

As for heating, Raceseng did include a soft bag which the knob came in and which is meant to be used to cover the knob when not in use. It is white and has their logo on upside down intentionally so you can read it while it is on the knob.

I appreciate the indication that it might come apart but this appears extremely well made and solid. I really doubt it has any greater chance of failure than any other metal knob based on how it is made. Maybe the leather will stretch and eventually wear out or the threads could fail but I would expect the leather to be easy to replace by a leather shop or Raceseng and you really need to be abusing it for those threads to fail. I do appreciate the guidance and respect your experience and will keep an eye out for those reasons you suggest.

thank you.
Frank

 

[kiksbutt]

Has anyone located the K-brace in our cars? Ford states the pp2 comes with k brace but I can't see it. Also, for those that have installed the steeda subframe brace 555-5754, any feedback on it? Is it a must or does it negatively affect the ride. I ask because adding parts to one area may give or take away somewhere else. Given how pp2 was modeled, I don't want to mess with any parts unless there's documented need for it.

 

[Ron]

"Also, for those that have installed the Steeda sub-frame braces (555-5754,) any feedback on it? Is it a must or does it negatively effect the ride. I ask because adding parts to one area may give or take away somewhere else. Given how PP2 was modeled, I don't want to mess w/any parts unless there's documented need for it."

1st off, there are NO negatives to the installation. What the Steeda sub-frame bracing will do is stiffen the chassis. This, in turn, will enhance the effects of the upgraded PP2 suspension (plus any future upgrades). A lot of the energy absorbed by your suspension gets transferred to the chassis making the suspension less effective in doing its basic job. How much you notice these subtle changes is pretty dependent on your own driving abilities & how well you know your Mustang. Bottom line? The ride might feel a wee bit stiffer (in reality, it is not stiffer, just more effective) due to the chassis no longer acting like a sponge, but given that you have a PP2, methinks ya'll gonna like it!!!

 

[NeverSatisfied]

1st off, there are NO negatives to the installation. What the Steeda sub-frame bracing will do is stiffen the chassis. This, in turn, will enhance the effects of the upgraded PP2 suspension (plus any future upgrades). A lot of the energy absorbed by your suspension gets transferred to the chassis making the suspension less effective in doing its basic job. How much you notice these subtle changes is pretty dependent on your own driving abilities & how well you know your Mustang. Bottom line? The ride might feel a wee bit stiffer (in reality, it is not stiffer, just more effective) due to the chassis no longer acting like a sponge, but given that you have a PP2, methinks ya'll gonna like it!!!

I’d caution on this. The PP2 is comfortable quiet highway cruiser off the shelf in my opinion. If you want to keep it that way, you may want to hold off.

Every bushing elimination I added which claimed negligible or no increase in NVH, was not correct.

I did the basic BMR rear lockout to the cradle on my PP2 and immediately noticed an increase in a certain noise frequency on the highway from the rear. Not an intolerable amount, but it’s enough to make me go “hmm I guess I can live with it...”

 

[Ron]

"Has anyone located the K-brace in our cars? Ford states the PP2 comes w/a K-brace, but I can't see it."

I opted to answer the easy question (chassis bracing) 1st. This is a little more difficult as Ford (& others) tend to identify both an upper AND lower brace as a K-brace when, in reality, I think they both look more like C-braces. And the Steeda lower brace (which does not replace, but actually supplements, the lower factory C-brace) is actually a K-brace. Have I caused your eyes to gloss over yet?

OK, below is the basic S550 factory upper C-brace. It connects the shock towers to the firewall. As you can see, there ain't nothing 'K' about it. I have chosen to illustrate this separately v. installed as it is kinda buried under a lot of plastic when installed. On the 1st gen Shelby GT350, this was referred to as an export brace as Ford actually installed them on Euro market Mustangs. It was never a U.S. market option.

Below is the lower factory C-brace (far upper left in photo) that runs forward of the cross-member. Highlighted is the Steeda K-brace which, as you can see, runs rearward of the cross-member. There are two (2) perks to the Steeda piece. The 1st being the obvious chassis enhancement which was covered in the 1st response. The 2nd (tho not mentioned by Steeda) is that is does provide a bit of protection to the Mustang's composite oil pan. Steeda also offers this in a 2-point ultra-lite version ... just straight across w/out the forward arms. Don't waste your money.

 

[kiksbutt]

I’d caution on this. The PP2 is comfortable quiet highway cruiser off the shelf in my opinion. If you want to keep it that way, you may want to hold off.

Every bushing elimination I added which claimed negligible or no increase in NVH, was not correct.

I did the basic BMR rear lockout to the cradle on my PP2 and immediately noticed an increase in a certain noise frequency on the highway from the rear. Not an intolerable amount, but it’s enough to make me go “hmm I guess I can live with it...”

That is exactly what I'm worried about.

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