PP2 OWNER EXPERIENCES - RAVES/QUIRKS

[mustang5o]

We run 30 minute sessions at Area 27 or just open track, the same at ORP in Oregon in 100 degree temps and the Full Tilt Boogie Racing diff cooler performs flawlessly. I think it is better than what comes on the Shelby.

I was talking stock for stock but yeah, there are ways to make the car better. I've been adding up my next few rounds of mods (FTB cooler is on the list) and I may just hold on to that money and put it towards a Mach 1. Getting the better cooling and transmission without voiding my warranty would be nice. I may throw a Blowfish racing shifter bracket on and if that really helps with shifting then I might stick with my PP2. We will see.

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[Ron]

"I'm curious as to what exactly is different between the PP1 & PP2?"

OK, w/out checking a non-PP2 Mustang, I looked at the front fender liner on mine. It appears that the PP2 plastic liner is molded w/a (for lack of a better word) pocket to allow for the wider turning radius of the 10.5" rim w/the 305 tire.

 

[Porsche Dude]

I was talking stock for stock but yeah, there are ways to make the car better. I've been adding up my next few rounds of mods (FTB cooler is on the list) and I may just hold on to that money and put it towards a Mach 1. Getting the better cooling and transmission without voiding my warranty would be nice. I may throw a Blowfish racing shifter bracket on and if that really helps with shifting then I might stick with my PP2. We will see.

A good shifter would be wonderful to have. I tried the Steeda but had too many problems with it. Is Blowfish a good one? The shift from second to third has always bugged me.

 

[Troutwrangler]

OK, w/out checking a non-PP2 Mustang, I looked at the front fender liner on mine. It appears that the PP2 plastic liner is molded w/a (for lack of a better word) pocket to allow for the wider turning radius of the 11.5" rim w/the 305 tire.

FWIW- Tasca auto parts shows 2 different fender liners per side for Mustang GTs.... One without Performance Package, and one with Performance Package. No distinction made between Performance Packages though.

 

[mustang5o]

A good shifter would be wonderful to have. I tried the Steeda but had too many problems with it. Is Blowfish a good one? The shift from second to third has always bugged me.

The only shifter that is worth the effort from what I've read is the MGW (mounts to trans instead of body). The Blowfish bracket is a bracket that makes it so the stock shifter is attached to the transmission instead of the body. The Blowfish bracket is almost half the price of the MGW shifter and should be a bit easier to install (and uninstall if needed). Blowfish also gives you an NHRA certified driveshaft safety loop. I don't drag race but a safety loop is good thing. Especially if you ever go to a lightweight one piece ($$$). 2-3 has given me issues as well and at the two tracks I go to the most they both have a turn that might be worthwhile to drop into second.

 

[Pkvir]

Unless you want magna ride and 10 speed auto...like me.

......and me

 

[kiksbutt]

For those that track their PP2, I'm looking to get SVE SP2 but they come in 19x10 35mm offset vs. 19x10.5 24mm on OEM. I have 305/30/19 for front and wondering if there are any risks running it on 19x10 wheel for track. Nothing too hard on track, just some fun spirited driving.

 

[kz]

For those that track their PP2, I'm looking to get SVE SP2 but they come in 19x10 35mm offset vs. 19x10.5 24mm on OEM. I have 305/30/19 for front and wondering if there are any risks running it on 19x10 wheel for track. Nothing too hard on track, just some fun spirited driving.

10 inch is too narrow for 305 tire - but if you squeeze it on, you will need spacer to fit it. You basically have to be at the effective 25mm offset (so 10mm spacer for ET35 wheel) to fit 305 tire and have some decent negative camber. I am using 19x11 ET50 with 25mm slip on spacer with 305/30 BFG Rival S and -3.3 camber and it doesn't have much room in there to the strut.

 

[kiksbutt]

10 inch is too narrow for 305 tire - but if you squeeze it on, you will need spacer to fit it. You basically have to be at the effective 25mm offset (so 10mm spacer for ET35 wheel) to fit 305 tire and have some decent negative camber. I am using 19x11 ET50 with 25mm slip on spacer with 305/30 BFG Rival S and -3.3 camber and it doesn't have much room in there to the strut.

Thanks - for your 19x11, you're using longer studs, right?

 

[kz]

Thanks - for your 19x11, you're using longer studs, right?

Yes - absolutely - these https://www.cjponyparts.com/arp-wheel-stud-kit-3-435-2015-2020/p/HW3858/ ARP studs and open ended lugs. They're longer than I really need for 25 mm spacer but doesn't hurt to have some thread left in case I go with a thicker spacer.

 

[TicTocTach]

Not wanting to run this very far off the rails, but for those looking for longer studs, the GT350R wheel bearing swaps with other Magneride cars and has super long studs for the CF wheels. Here's an aftermarket part on the Bay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Whee...971128?hash=item3b50945df8:g:r-oAAOSwNxxfj6UM

I'm sure the OEM bearings are available through Ford, but I'm not sure what they cost.

Back to our regularly scheduled program...

 

[wtb6mtv8rwd]

Seems a better choice would have been to include the diff and possibly transmission cooling as a separate option within PP2. Maybe package the cooling with the PSC2 tires and put the "base" PP2 on PS4S tires of the same size . . . make it the buyer's choice to be only a little hardcore about cornering & handling or seriously so.

This would've made so much sense.

If Ford was targeting the PP2 for some random dude who enjoys driving twisty roads, then they nailed the target with me. Fun car.

That's the precisely the thing. I'm exactly that guy and yet I can't make it through my favorite canyon pass without overheating the diff and being forced to slow down. Spoils the fun a bit.

 

[kz]

Not wanting to run this very far off the rails, but for those looking for longer studs, the GT350R wheel bearing swaps with other Magneride cars and has super long studs for the CF wheels. Here's an aftermarket part on the Bay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Whee...971128?hash=item3b50945df8:g:r-oAAOSwNxxfj6UM

I'm sure the OEM bearings are available through Ford, but I'm not sure what they cost.

Back to our regularly scheduled program...

Did you also notice it is a knock off part ? Non OEM ? Brand - NYC Autoparts.

Pulling the hub on these cars (unlike on no-MR cars where hub is held by single use 36 mm nut) is very easy and requires undoing 4 bolts that hold it to the knuckle. I think it's even possible to get studs out and in without pulling the hub although it makes not much sense...

 

[TicTocTach]

Did you also notice it is a knock off part ? Non OEM ? Brand - NYC Autoparts.

Pulling the hub on these cars (unlike on no-MR cars where hub is held by single use 36 mm nut) is very easy and requires undoing 4 bolts that hold it to the knuckle. I think it's even possible to get studs out and in without pulling the hub although it makes not much sense...

Yeah, I'm not sure of the source or how much quality you get in any brand of bearing these days. I happened to get my hubs in a complete 350R knuckle set, but I would have bought aftermarket if I could have found them cheaper at the time. I wanted to be able to replace my OEM bearing set if needed, but I'm less concerned with that now.

 

[Rapid Red]

This would've made so much sense.



That's the precisely the thing. I'm exactly that guy and yet I can't make it through my favorite canyon pass without overheating the diff and being forced to slow down. Spoils the fun a bit.

I gave this a shot, was not able to get a before and after temp read. Learning about the rear over heat, shortly before a mountain run. This was a hedge your bet kind of deal.
Rear never got hot to a fault.

Just food for thought.

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