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Powered Subwoofer Install w/ Pics (RF Punch 12)

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HappySquirrel

HappySquirrel

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I just used the velcro. So far it hasn't budged.
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ValidusTalon

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Thank you (velcro) and again for the write-up. I've spent the past couple of nights after work doing the same project. I opted to go under the battery box for power. I also took the advice in this thread of tapping into the rear deck speaker wires under the seat. I spliced into each, soldered the connection, then wrapped them individually w/shrink tube and re-wrapped the bunch w/new Tessa tape.

In terms of the sub itself, I put (lots) of velcro on the bottom and it seemed okay, but also would wiggle if I pushed on it. In all likelihood (and based on your feedback) it was fine. But I couldn't leave well enough alone so went to Home Depot, bout a couple of large L brackets and bolted them to the support above the speaker. Then I put velcro on the brackets and the speaker. It's in there very firmly now... in fact if I want to remove it I'll probably have to undo the brackets (damn that industrial strength velcro is stuck firmer than I thought!!!).

If anyone wants info PM me and I am happy to share more, send pics of the brackets, etc...
 

Lonmon

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Any other info about this mic in the headliner might be helpful. Are all models equipt with this? The bass sounds ok but sometimes with some bass I do notice a less then crisp sound. I did not know about this when I did the install. I assumed any issue with the sound was due to the poor quality of the audio (pandora) or tuning the sub (fine tuning the crossover, boost and gain. I haven't even tried the phase yet to see if it sounds better 180 out. I used the wire with the stripe as the negative leads, not sure if thats the way Rockford intended or not. I am also not using the bass knob yet and just control it through the fade and bass on the radio. Thanks in advance for any advice and info on settings, preferred setup, and where this mic is and how to disconnect it if my base model car has one! This forum rocks with how helpful most of the community is!
 

ValidusTalon

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The base knob seems to be really helpful, I was trying as you were [MENTION=17221]Lonmon[/MENTION], but finally plugged it in and things got allot better.

Color Wise you should be:

Left Rear
White-Green (car) > White (cut RCA adapter)
Brown-Yellow (car) > White Black (cut RCA adapter)

Right Rear
Brown-White (car) > Grey (cut RCA adapter)
Brown-Blue (car) > Grey Black (cut RCA adapter)

In terms of the Mic, I believe it's just for the EcoBoost cars, not present in GT's. I checked mine (GT) and it's not there...
 

yomamma219

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[MENTION=16089]HappySquirrel[/MENTION] I have a question for you and anyone else that has tapped off the rear speaker wires.

Does adjusting the Bass level or the balance/fade or the *sound mode* (ie driver/everyone) on the mustangs head unit noticeably affect the sub's sound quality or output level, etc? If so, can you describe what settings affect it what ways? primarily I'm worried about losing the Bass frequencies when I put it in "driver" mode. Also my thought would be that with adding a sub, I should be able to turn down the Bass from the head unit (currently have it 66-75% of the way up most of the time). Thus allowing the OEM speakers to focus on mid-high frequencies and the sub to handle the lower ones with the benefit of boosting sub output independent of the other 9-speakers thanks to an amp remote. Is this an accurate line of thought when tapping off the rear speakers, or would turning the head-unit bass down result in a weak Bass signal to the sub and poor sound quality/output from it as a result?

I've been looking around at the various Sub install write ups for a while and can't believe I didn't see this one before. I had almost given up doing this DIY as I was a bit put-off by having to remove the wheel and wheel well liner. Plus I have been a bit unsure of what the final result would be simply tapping into the rear speakers since it usually seems like not much sound comes from them. This thread has definitely given me a renewed confidence though. Thanks for all the great pictures and info!
 

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Fading to the front does make the signal to the sub less. Also turning the bass down on the headunit also removes bass signal. If you use the included bass control knob you can set the headunit how you like it for the rest of the speakers and then season the bass to taste from the sub separately.
 

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[MENTION=17221]Lonmon[/MENTION] does lowering the bass signal from the head unit (regardless of the method) noticeably affect the sound level/quality of the sub? My concern with this is that I pretty frequently will adjust between sound modes (driver/everyone) on the head unit and also will adjust the fade slightly sometimes. I am just wondering if I go with this method am I going to potentially have to adjust 4 things (sound mode, fade level, HU Bass level, remote knob bass level) instead of the normal 1 or 2 I would normally do? Or is the sound difference when making these head unit changes relatively subtle in the scheme of things?

An example of an imaginary situation I am concerned about is: I am riding solo comfortably listening to music with sound mode set to driver (or whatever). Then I go to pick up a friend so while the music is paused (between songs etc) so I switch to "Everyone" mode, or maybe I just bump the fade rear 1 click, or turn the bass on the HU up 2 clicks. The next song plays and BAM the bass is violently louder and blows my sub. Or vice-versa maybe I then turn the bass level on the head unit all the way down (with the intention of having the sub carry the full bass load) and then even with the remote knob turned up all the way the sub produces weak sound, or the sound it produces is extremely "noisy" due to the amp having to boost the extremely weak signal.

Obviously blowing the sub is an exaggeration since I am pretty confident in my ability to match the basic components. But I am honestly curious if even at the weakest rear speaker bass level (presumably fade: full front, bass level: minimum, sound mode: driver) this install method will produce good bass levels with a 300-400 RMS setup? Sorry for the rant just trying to clarify my concern even if it is a bit...exasperated.


Fading to the front does make the signal to the sub less. Also turning the bass down on the headunit also removes bass signal. If you use the included bass control knob you can set the headunit how you like it for the rest of the speakers and then season the bass to taste from the sub separately.
 

Lonmon

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Depending on how picky you are you may have to adjust the sub when you change the fade and bass settings a notch or two but I doubt it. It doesn't have a drastic effect on the signal unless you adjust the fade or bass a good bit.
 
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HappySquirrel

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Any other info about this mic in the headliner might be helpful. Are all models equipt with this? The bass sounds ok but sometimes with some bass I do notice a less then crisp sound. I did not know about this when I did the install. I assumed any issue with the sound was due to the poor quality of the audio (pandora) or tuning the sub (fine tuning the crossover, boost and gain. I haven't even tried the phase yet to see if it sounds better 180 out. I used the wire with the stripe as the negative leads, not sure if thats the way Rockford intended or not. I am also not using the bass knob yet and just control it through the fade and bass on the radio. Thanks in advance for any advice and info on settings, preferred setup, and where this mic is and how to disconnect it if my base model car has one! This forum rocks with how helpful most of the community is!
GTs, GT350s & V6s don't have the mic. Also, it's not an issue for EBs running the Ford Performance Tune, as I believe that disables the sound enhancement.

I definitely recommend adjusting the crossover. Flipping the polarity might not hurt, although I doubt it would be helpful unless you got the wire polarity wrong.

I highly recommend hooking up the bass volume/gain remote and running it in to your cabin. Most of the time when something sounds muddy to me it's simply because I have too much bass for the type of music I'm playing so I reduce the volume through the subwoofer knob a bit and it cleans right up. This sub is really powerful for an all-in-one unit. Most of the time I keep the knob at around 1/3 to 2/5 gain unless I'm intentionally trying to shake my windows/piss people off. :headbonk:
 

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I didnt see it mentioned but using the camera wire for remote means the sub is off if the car doesnt have full accessory power.
 

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My P300-10 blew and I'm thinking about going with the P300-12. Can I use the same exact wiring?
 

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Did you have to use Forscan to modify levels out of the head unit at all? Search function isn't helping me find much of an answer to this.
 

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Same setup I have in my 16 GT. Had it for about two years, and it sounds awesome for $200, especially with one back seat down. Every time I hear it, I appreciate buying that sub so much.
 

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