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Post lowering alignment questions: What's ok for rear camber?

Captdistraction

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Since lowering my car, I had an alignment done locally (4 wheel). I wasn't terribly happy with it, as the steering wheel was slightly off, but I corrected it at home using some toe plates (and was just a simple adjustment on both front tie-rods to get it perfect)

That said, I decided to measure the camber as I hadn't received a printout when I got the car back:

Front Camber 1.4/1.3
Rear Camber 2.5/2.4

Is that normal? Lowered on BMR 84/88 springs. It just seems to be a little excessive rear camber for daily driven use (on the racecar I'll take all the cambers please). I hadn't looked at the links on the IRS to see if there was adjustment left.
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BmacIL

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Since lowering my car, I had an alignment done locally (4 wheel). I wasn't terribly happy with it, as the steering wheel was slightly off, but I corrected it at home using some toe plates (and was just a simple adjustment on both front tie-rods to get it perfect)

That said, I decided to measure the camber as I hadn't received a printout when I got the car back:

Front Camber 1.4/1.3
Rear Camber 2.5/2.4

Is that normal? Lowered on BMR 84/88 springs. It just seems to be a little excessive rear camber for daily driven use (on the racecar I'll take all the cambers please). I hadn't looked at the links on the IRS to see if there was adjustment left.
Front looks good. I'd try to get ~1.5 deg in the rear for daily use.
 
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Captdistraction

Captdistraction

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Front looks good. I'd try to get ~1.5 deg in the rear for daily use.
Since I am struggling with alignment shops, is there a good reference for DIY alignment on these cars? I have toe plates and a camber gauge, I imagine I can get fairly close without much issue at this point.
 

BmacIL

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Since I am struggling with alignment shops, is there a good reference for DIY alignment on these cars? I have toe plates and a camber gauge, I imagine I can get fairly close without much issue at this point.
If you've got that stuff you should be ok. Otherwise, get some string with a coin/weight at the end taped to the fender and a protractor and do some geometry :D. One thing to keep in mind is that because of the integral link design, it's challenging to adjust each completely independently.
 
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Captdistraction

Captdistraction

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I guess I'm asking is there an eccentric in the upper camber arm? I'll do some searching. I imagine once I adjust camber to my liking that I'll need to set toe again. Found the specs on eibachs site just need to check procedures and torque specs
 

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BmacIL

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BmacIL

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I'm a little surprised that there isn't some positive means of holding the adjustment.


Norm
Same...purely relying on the friction from the joint.
 

BMR Tech

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The OE design makes the arm pretty secure when torquing to the proper value (83-85ftlbs)

It is a typical 12mm+ sized bolt sleeve, that features serrations on the outer sleeve edges. This is similar to what OEMs do with many higher load suspension pivot point mounting ends.

A locked out design is going to be the best...but it's not very practical.
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JaxS550

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I lowered my car with vogtland sport plus (1.3 drop all around) and I have a PP. I put 25mm spacers all around and had to lean the rears in at about 3* to avoid any rub. Rear end handles like shit now at higher speeds so I ordered 20mm spacers for the rear so I can straighten them up after talking this over with the guys at Steeda.

*Side note I have vertical links, Steeda sub frame alignment, subframe bushings, and diff bushings so all that is solid and straight.
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