PMAS Intake Systems from UPR Products. TUNE AND NO TUNE INTAKES

[SolarFlare]

Thanks PMAS. Still looking forward to seeing tuned PMAS vs tuned JLT. To see if the PMAS puts down 15+whp more.

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[Terminator2]

You should have no problem just telling them to make the tune for a stock airbox. It will run fine.

Technically they could play with cam timing knowing the intake was less restrictive with the PMAS but I'm not sure if most go that far unless you are spending the whole day on a dyno.

This. I haven't touched my optimum power cam timing yet because I need to spend a couple hours on a dyno with it but I'm not wasting my time and money until my NA setup is done and I need to do a few more mods first mostly GT350 intake manifold.

 

[Gibbo205]

This. I haven't touched my optimum power cam timing yet because I need to spend a couple hours on a dyno with it but I'm not wasting my time and money until my NA setup is done and I need to do a few more mods first mostly GT350 intake manifold.

Yeah was just checking, I am planning on:

PMAS CAI (already done)
350 TB
350 IM
Kooks LT with green cats
Corsa sport catback (already done)
JDM tune (already done)

Am hoping once all complete I will be over 500HP at the crank.

 

[Terminator2]

My question is, how well does the S&B filter contain fine dust particals when compared to the stock or GT350 filter (which I think is also a paper element)? I would be more willing to sacrifice a little performance and choose the gt350 intake if it has better filtration. I plan on keeping my car quite a while and sometimes drive through very dusty areas.

S&B oiled filters are 99% efficient and they hold a lot of dust. Factory paper elements and most dry flow filter media is 98-99% so just as well.

 

[WhiteyDog]

Yeah was just checking, I am planning on:

PMAS CAI (already done)
350 TB
350 IM
Kooks LT with green cats
Corsa sport catback (already done)
JDM tune (already done)

Am hoping once all complete I will be over 500HP at the crank.

With those mods you should be, I am, with the same kind of stuff.

 

[proorange]

Received my PMAS from UPR today. Glad I have a long weekend coming up as I have the PMAS, Tune, MGW Shifter and a set of BMR springs to install.

 

[Gibbo205]

Hi there


So though I love the additional performance and sound from my PMAS, seeing IAT's climb so fast in traffic was scary with ambient temperatures of 24-28c here in the UK I've seen as high as 64c IAT and I have checked my ambient and IAT sensors, YES THEY ARE ACCURATE to within 2c.

In slow moving traffic the PMAS would often still be 15-20c above ambient so easily above 38c IAT, which is the point the car starts pulling timing reducing torque/power/response.

The only way to keep temperatures within 10c of ambient is when at WOT for periods of time often on fast flowing roads or highway driving, at this point they will eventually get to within 5-6c of ambient, which is only 3-4c stock box. But the moment you slow down those temperatures increase, the moment you stop, they sky rocket and even though they come down fast once moving, they would only come down to around 10c above ambient.


How to reduce IAT's with PMAS!

1. Open up the honey combs on front grill or cut them out completely, upto you, I just opened up the honey combs to keep stock look. Use a dremel!
2. Get a Velossa big mouth, again I went with matt black for stock look:

Those two will direct all air entering the front grill to behind the bumper close to the PMAS heatshield, or directly into a stock air box causing RAM AIR effect which is also a proven way to increase horsepower when car has momentum at higher speeds (proven by Porsche & BMW). However with the PMAS there is a big gap from the stock ducting in the bumper to the PMAS heatshield so all that nice fresh air your opened up grill and bigmouth send in just get washed into the engine bay and do little to benefit IAT's.


So next step was to fill that gap with a duct of some sort to make sure all the air entering the front grill finds it way into the air box both reducing IAT's and causing somewhat RAM AIR effect. I could of just chopped the duct of the stock air box, that would also work fine, but I did not want to destroy my stock air box for obvious reasons.


3. So I purchased the Shelby GT 350 RAM air duct from TeamJDM for $38 (circled in blue):

4. I then enlarged the hole on the PMAS heatshield, PMAS actually recommended this as the result should be no loss in flow, potentially even more flow, if your really worried you could even drill a few large holes on the wing side, but the guys who build race cars told me that ducting and larger hole in the heatshield will actually flow as well if not better with the advantage of lower IAT's, they gave it a big thumbs up:

5. With the larger opening the ducting now tightly slots into the heatshield, I drilled some holes around the heatshield matching the cut outs on the ducting to securely attach the duct to the heatshield and it actually fits up real well and tight. If you want to finish it off perfectly you could put some black silicon seal around it, but I feel that is not needed.

6. The finished product, you cannot actually see it unless you specifically look through the front opened up grill and you can see the blow cone filter or look directly from above:

As you can see it fits well and it lines up real nice to the ducting coming from the front grill/bumper meaning now all the cold air entering my front grill is going directly to the filter.

Results:
- Just like when I originally fitted Velossa, throttle response and urgency is improved when going WOT or partial throttle at higher speeds, this I can only assume is down to the RAM air effect.
- Now in traffic the IAT stay within 15-20c of ambient (20c reduction), not seen above 40c yet, compared to previous high of 64c.
- In slow moving city driving, they stay within 10c of ambient (5-10c reduction)
- Faster driving IAT's are 2-5c above ambient (2-3c reduction).
- The heatshield is raised a little at the front with the ducting, still no hood closure insure, infact it just seals the whole intake better from engine heat.


I am in the UK so overall cost was closer to £100, but to me it was still worth while, now on hot summer days my IAT's are staying under 38c so no timing is being pulled, but even better my IAT's are now typically around 20-25c in Summer, so the ECU can add in more timing to create more power. So for me it was worth it, I would say for local USA guys at $38 it is well worth a shot because if you get similar results to me your car will drive even better and your IAT's will be less.

I shall hit the dyno in a week or two with the duct in place, if I am up 10-15BHP over my last run (gains that most see) I will be happy the duct has not restricted flow.

 

[NvrFinished]

Fantastic work Gibbo. I look forward to your results as I'm looking hard at this intake. Did you go with GT350 ram air duct because it is larger? I remember PMAS stating that the factory GT snorkel was limiting.

 

[Gibbo205]

Fantastic work Gibbo. I look forward to your results as I'm looking hard at this intake. Did you go with GT350 ram air duct because it is larger? I remember PMAS stating that the factory GT snorkel was limiting.

Yes and because I did not want to chop up my stock air box.

Plus my view is if the GT350 duct is good enough for the GT350 that already flows much better and spins upto 8250rpm, then it is good enough for our lowly GT's. ;)

Contact the guys at JDM, they don't list the part on their site seperately, but they do offer it and they charged me $38 plus shipping, for something so low cost it is worth a try and it really helps reduce IAT's vastly!

 

[Ultimateone]

I opened up my grille and only see 5-7 degrees hotter IATs when driving. I think people overthink this IAT thing with any of these open air intakes.

 

[Gibbo205]

I opened up my grille and only see 5-7 degrees hotter IATs when driving. I think people overthink this IAT thing with any of these open air intakes.

You see mine was previously opened up and I had the Velossa with stock intake which at speed would be 2-3c above ambient and 3-5c above at lower speeds. But the PMAS was 7-10 above ambient at speed once car was fully upto temperature and at lower speeds could very quickly go to 20c above and in traffic as much as 40c over, yes crazy. Though it would cool back down to 10c over once moving at speed again, it took ages to get back to that 3-5c range.

Now with the GT 350 duct it has vastly improved, just had a great drive out and the car felt more responsive and more powerful but also today is nearly 10c lower ambient, so IAT's are a good 15-20c lower and than my drives at weekend, which probably explains why it feels stronger.

 

[Ultimateone]

I think you're having a placebo effect good sir but I'm happy that the intake is working great for you.

 

[Gibbo205]

I think you're having a placebo effect good sir but I'm happy that the intake is working great for you.

Maybe but the IATs have lowered considerably and at $38 I can highly recommend it.

 

[Rebellion]

Is the GT350 ram inserted from inside of the PMAS airbox or is it just sit in front of it?

 

[Terminator2]

I cut my Pmas box open more so it can pull air from behind the bumper and headlight area. I also cut away the stock plastic some near the radiator so more air can flow back towards the gaping hole I cut in my box.

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