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Piston+rods for gen 2 coyote / block strength

Bmaughan

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I just recently blew a head gasket... so while I have the whole thing apart I was thinking about swapping pistons and rods since I’ve heard the pistons are most likely the weakest link.

so the question is what do you all recommend?
My car is Procharged making an estimated 700-750 at the wheels on E85 at about 13lbs.

At that power level, what would be the best value?
Are there any “no balance needed” setups?...
or is that lingo just empty marketing and a balance is always necessary?

Any idea if this power level is pushing it for the stock block? Or is it no sweat?
Man I just don’t want to tear this thing down again haha 😆

thanks for your help!
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80FoxCoupe

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Might as well do sleeves if the budget allows. You are right there. Id balance the assembly.
 
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Bmaughan

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Might as well do sleeves if the budget allows. You are right there. Id balance the assembly.
Really? Man that sucks... for some reason I thought the gen 2 blocks were a bit stronger.
 

80FoxCoupe

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Really? Man that sucks... for some reason I thought the gen 2 blocks were a bit stronger.
All coyote blocks are strong relatively speaking. You will be getting the crank polished, new bearings, new rods, pistons and rings. It wont be much more to get it sleeved.
 
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Bmaughan

Bmaughan

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All coyote blocks are strong relatively speaking. You will be getting the crank polished, new bearings, new rods, pistons and rings. It wont be much more to get it sleeved.
You’re probably right. Couple more questions if you don’t mind. I’ve never replaced a bottom end before. I can’t simple put new rods and pistons in correct? The crank needs to be polished and cylinders honed right? Or might it be ok without those processes?

what is the generally understood healthy limit for the stock block?

thanks again!
 

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what is the generally understood healthy limit for the stock block?
The stock Gen 2 block is more than capable of handling 7-750rwhp. If that's all you think you want, then no need to go with new sleeves. If you think you will want more in the future, then as you initially said you might as well beef up the block while you're there.

To do it right, you should have the bores cleaned up for the pistons, then the whole thing assembled and re-balanced.
 
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Bmaughan

Bmaughan

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The stock Gen 2 block is more than capable of handling 7-750rwhp. If that's all you think you want, then no need to go with new sleeves. If you think you will want more in the future, then as you initially said you might as well beef up the block while you're there.

To do it right, you should have the bores cleaned up for the pistons, then the whole thing assembled and re-balanced.
ok good to know... you say assemble then balance? Is that a thing? I though they just weight everything..weight the crank and then balance the crank. Is that not the standard practice?
Also, when you say clean up the cylinders would that mean boring to a bigger size or just a slight hone?
. Sorry if I sound like a newb... it’s cause I am haha.
 

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I though they just weight everything..weight the crank and then balance the crank. Is that not the standard practice?
Also, when you say clean up the cylinders would that mean boring to a bigger size or just a slight hone?
That's what I meant, re-balance (which is done with bob weights as mentioned) and then assemble.

Not a bigger size, just enough to cleanup the glaze. It's always best practice to fit the pistons to the bore rather than just drop them in even if they label them as drop in. They might not have to do much, but it's always good to have the machine shop check and set the clearances as needed and that might include a light hone.
 
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Bmaughan

Bmaughan

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Gotcha.. I hope nothing much needs to be done.. I don’t know of a good trustworthy machine shop in my area. I may need to start a new thread and see if anyone on the forum does. How about you... any good shops in Phoenix?
 

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Gotcha.. I hope nothing much needs to be done.. I don’t know of a good trustworthy machine shop in my area. I may need to start a new thread and see if anyone on the forum does. How about you... any good shops in Phoenix?
Do you need to do this all local? There are quite a few excellent engine builders all over the country that can get you hooked up with an engine. Alot of them offer core exchanges (if you already have some of the parts) and ability to get new OEM and aftermarket parts.

There's a very recent thread on the best engine builders with lots of good options.
 

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750.. even 800 hp. Replace the head gasket button it up and go have fun.
 
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Bmaughan

Bmaughan

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750.. even 800 hp. Replace the head gasket button it up and go have fun.
Is that your opinion of just the blocks strength ? Or pistons and rods as well?
 

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Do you think I’m better off buying a straight edge from summit to check for head/block flatness or just take the heads to a shop to have them check?

I’d love to not have to mill if possible.... I wonder about conflict of interest when asking a machine shop to check if a part needs to be machined haha.
The plan is to keep the motor in the car and just pull the heads so they wouldn only be able to check the heads for flatness but obviously if I buy a straight edge I can check both...
Any thoughts?
 

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Don’t do nothing. For 700 hp put a crank sprocket oil pump gears call it a day
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