Pinion bearing losing pre-load. Only after making a couple passes..... Strange. 3rd time.

308 Cal. Bullitt

Well-Known Member
May 3, 2020
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Midwestern mover-Left coast/desert dwllr
First Name
'19 Bullitt , F150 Lariat, Excursion 7.3 4x , 12V Ram Dually , Ford Probe Rwd conversion B-Blk, '88 Turbo Coupe, '65 Futura, '53 GMC 509" BBC, '69 Camaro shell, misc bikes/beater cars.
A crush sleeve 'eliminator'
is more of a 'replacer', if anything.
But yeah.. To ea his own verbage.

Crush sleeves on heavy cars over 35/3600lbs,
or running quicker that about a
~1.40 -60ft, on a drag strip..
(Especially w/traction via good tires or decent track prep)..
Is likely gonna cause heartache.
& this problem.

We all hav our own parameters based on our own experiences. Drag race cars w/pwr & or wt#, need solid spacers between both pinion bearings. Soft materials will fail. I.E. crush sleeve

Just for the record. If anyone decides to do LOW DRAG, angular contact ball bearings-
(vs a tune or other warranty voiding power adders),
on either the 'LOAD' side rear bearing only,
(a poor mans method)

or both pinion bearings 👍.
U must.. MUST.. Use a
'solid pinion spacer'. You cannot preload an angular contact ball bearing.
Ceramic or steel balls.
A crush sleeve will negate (& damage) any gains on an angular contact ball bearing, & it will qwikly destroy the bearings with the additional Axial load force on them. From torquing dwn the driveshaft pinion flange, like a crush sleeve normally endures.

Literally, a pce of 4130 Condition N tubing, works for a crush sleeve replacement, as a solid pinion spacer.
On nearly any/all rear ends.
Size specific obviously.
Chamfers often necessary.
Material thickness on a mchined sleeve should be at ~ .100" minimum wall, material, with tensile strength ~68,000+ psi. Preferably closer to ~85k+ psi tensile.
(not yield)
The thicker it is, the softer the material can be, obviously.
Just want to avoid the collapse of the spacer, by even ~.0005"

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