Per Ford (officially) the 2011-2019 F150/Mustang 5.0 “Typewriter Tick” is a normal characteristic

blk_bean_s550

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That will be their standard answer, and probably the answer you'll get unless you can provide some other symptoms (or they can find some symptoms) that range outside of their SSM info. Good luck.
Dead on. About 7 techs came out and all tried to tell me it was normal, and quoted the SSM. When I showed how the SSM didn't line up with what I'm experiencing (SSM states noise comes from bell housing or oil pan, mine comes from the front of the passenger cylinder head) they just said "well it's normal anyways cuz I said so" and walked away. Pretty infuriating, but not much I can do about it I guess.

 

GT Pony

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Dead on. About 7 techs came out and all tried to tell me it was normal, and quoted the SSM. When I showed how the SSM didn't line up with what I'm experiencing (SSM states noise comes from bell housing or oil pan, mine comes from the front of the passenger cylinder head) they just said "well it's normal anyways cuz I said so" and walked away. Pretty infuriating, but not much I can do about it I guess.
That's disappointing since is sounds like they basically shrugged it off, even when you pointed out a sound that may have not been normal. I think most Ford techs are just going to use the noise SSMs as an excuse that every noise the engine makes, be it normal or not, is "normal". Basically you would have to drive in with the engine on it's last leg to get any real attention.
 

blk_bean_s550

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In a stroke of what may seem like idiocy, I decided to try something I had read earlier on this topic and I unplugged the "oil by-pass solenoid" present on the Gen 3 coyote motors.

Lo and behold, no tick. In fact, my engine is running quieter than ever! I drove it 25 miles as a test, both slow driving and highway driving. No performance issues, no CEL's, and most importantly, no tick! I can't say for sure that this will be a permanent solution, but I'm certainly hoping it is. I'll post updates if I have any issues/CEL's.
 

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Dead on. About 7 techs came out and all tried to tell me it was normal, and quoted the SSM. When I showed how the SSM didn't line up with what I'm experiencing (SSM states noise comes from bell housing or oil pan, mine comes from the front of the passenger cylinder head) they just said "well it's normal anyways cuz I said so" and walked away. Pretty infuriating, but not much I can do about it I guess.
I went back and listened to you're noise videos again - link below. So all 7 Ford Techs claimed that noise was "normal". Wow ... 🤪 😳

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...s-a-normal-characteristic.116925/post-3514512
 

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In a stroke of what may seem like idiocy, I decided to try something I had read earlier on this topic and I unplugged the "oil by-pass solenoid" present on the Gen 3 coyote motors.

Lo and behold, no tick. In fact, my engine is running quieter than ever! I drove it 25 miles as a test, both slow driving and highway driving. No performance issues, no CEL's, and most importantly, no tick! I can't say for sure that this will be a permanent solution, but I'm certainly hoping it is. I'll post updates if I have any issues/CEL's.
That's interesting. People have talked about the electronically controlled variable volume oil pump, but this is the first time I've read where someone disconnected it. I'm surprised there was no check engine light set, as I would think the ECU would monitor that circuit for proper operation.

Do you have a pressure gauge on you car? If so, did you see an increase in oil pressure at idle? I'm not exactly sure how the system reacts when the oil pump control circuit is disconnected ... could be the idle oil pressure increases, and if so that might have effected what ever is making noise in you case, maybe a hydraulic follower that doesn't like low oil pressure perhaps (?).
 


blk_bean_s550

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That's interesting. People have talked about the electronically controlled variable volume oil pump, but this is the first time I've read where someone disconnected it. I'm surprised there was no check engine light set, as I would think the ECU would monitor that circuit for proper operation.

Do you have a pressure gauge on you car? If so, did you see an increase in oil pressure at idle? I'm not exactly sure how the system reacts when the oil pump control circuit is disconnected ... could be the idle oil pressure increases, and if so that might have effected what ever is making noise in you case, maybe a hydraulic follower that doesn't like low oil pressure perhaps (?).
I do, I installed the PP gauges a few weeks ago. Oil pressure at hot idle before was between 12-14psi, oil pressure after unplugging the solenoid is between 20-22psi. This definitely makes me think my noise was something not getting enough oil, and I suspect that if I plugged the solenoid back in, I'd probably go right back to the ticking noises. Interestingly enough, the BBQ tick that the car developed after it's first oil change seems to be gone as well.

I was watching a video about oil filter relocating from Power by the Hour, and he had mentioned that disconnecting or removing the oil by-pass solenoid on the 18+ Mustangs would result in CEL's as well as a decreased rev limiter almost as if the car was in a limp mode. I hit the limiter in 1st and 2nd as a test, and it seemed to be approximately where it always is around 8000-8200rpm. Wonder if this will be a long-term fix or not
 

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I do, I installed the PP gauges a few weeks ago. Oil pressure at hot idle before was between 12-14psi, oil pressure after unplugging the solenoid is between 20-22psi. This definitely makes me think my noise was something not getting enough oil, and I suspect that if I plugged the solenoid back in, I'd probably go right back to the ticking noises. Interestingly enough, the BBQ tick that the car developed after it's first oil change seems to be gone as well.

I was watching a video about oil filter relocating from Power by the Hour, and he had mentioned that disconnecting or removing the oil by-pass solenoid on the 18+ Mustangs would result in CEL's as well as a decreased rev limiter almost as if the car was in a limp mode. I hit the limiter in 1st and 2nd as a test, and it seemed to be approximately where it always is around 8000-8200rpm. Wonder if this will be a long-term fix or not
I think you are right to think about connecting back up to see if the noise comes back. That would be very interesting indeed. Can you post a pic of the connector?
 

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I do, I installed the PP gauges a few weeks ago. Oil pressure at hot idle before was between 12-14psi, oil pressure after unplugging the solenoid is between 20-22psi. This definitely makes me think my noise was something not getting enough oil, and I suspect that if I plugged the solenoid back in, I'd probably go right back to the ticking noises. Interestingly enough, the BBQ tick that the car developed after it's first oil change seems to be gone as well.
Is 12-14 PSI of hot idle oil pressure normal on the 3rd Gen Coyote with the computer controlled oil pump, or is yours low to start with?

Also keep in mind that more oil pressure at idle also means more oil flow. So what ever was making the noise in the front passenger side of you engine was most likely due to a lack of oil flow and pressure.

I was watching a video about oil filter relocating from Power by the Hour, and he had mentioned that disconnecting or removing the oil by-pass solenoid on the 18+ Mustangs would result in CEL's as well as a decreased rev limiter almost as if the car was in a limp mode. I hit the limiter in 1st and 2nd as a test, and it seemed to be approximately where it always is around 8000-8200rpm. Wonder if this will be a long-term fix or not.
If you have a code reader you might check for any diagonstic trouble codes. Maybe there is a code set, but it doesn't cause the check engine light to come on. If you don't have a code reader, you can go into Engineering Mode (I think that might also work on the 3rd Gen too) to check trouble codes.
 

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Is 12-14 PSI of hot idle oil pressure normal on the 3rd Gen Coyote with the computer controlled oil pump, or is yours low to start with?
10 to 15 at idle is normal according to Ford. Mine is around 15 and sometimes a bit lower and no ticks.
 

blk_bean_s550

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I think you are right to think about connecting back up to see if the noise comes back. That would be very interesting indeed. Can you post a pic of the connector?
IMG_1286.JPG


Red circle is the solenoid, blue circle is the plug. It's wrapped in a sort of heat wrap. There's two connectors on down there, make sure you pull the one from the L-shaped connector not the straight connector. I started under the car but ended up pulling it from the top. If you go from the top just watch the header right there. It's a tight space but not impossible (though I have small hands, so YMMV)
 

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Is 12-14 PSI of hot idle oil pressure normal on the 3rd Gen Coyote with the computer controlled oil pump, or is yours low to start with?

Also keep in mind that more oil pressure at idle also means more oil flow. So what ever was making the noise in the front passenger side of you engine was most likely due to a lack of oil flow and pressure.



If you have a code reader you might check for any diagonstic trouble codes. Maybe there is a code set, but it doesn't cause the check engine light to come on. If you don't have a code reader, you can go into Engineering Mode (I think that might also work on the 3rd Gen too) to check trouble codes.
I don't have a code reader but I oughta get one. I'll see if engineering mode helps me at all
 

blk_bean_s550

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Is 12-14 PSI of hot idle oil pressure normal on the 3rd Gen Coyote with the computer controlled oil pump, or is yours low to start with?

Also keep in mind that more oil pressure at idle also means more oil flow. So what ever was making the noise in the front passenger side of you engine was most likely due to a lack of oil flow and pressure.



If you have a code reader you might check for any diagonstic trouble codes. Maybe there is a code set, but it doesn't cause the check engine light to come on. If you don't have a code reader, you can go into Engineering Mode (I think that might also work on the 3rd Gen too) to check trouble codes.

IMG_1288.JPG


Just went and used engineering mode to check for codes, nothing. Like I said I've only driven about 25 miles with the solenoid unplugged, but you'd think that if it were going to throw a code it would have thrown it by now. Definitely interesting...
 

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IMG_1286.JPG


Red circle is the solenoid, blue circle is the plug. It's wrapped in a sort of heat wrap. There's two connectors on down there, make sure you pull the one from the L-shaped connector not the straight connector. I started under the car but ended up pulling it from the top. If you go from the top just watch the header right there. It's a tight space but not impossible (though I have small hands, so YMMV)
I don't see mine at all. Did you take the air cleaner housing off?
 

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For those who have the tick like me (no Ceratec added), in addition to it ticking at idle,
Does yours also tick on throttle at the low rpm range around 1000~1700 rpm, wondering if that's normal? I can produce it consistently whenever I'm going through a parking lot in that low rpm range. My first engine also ticked at idle and in the same rpm range when I gave it gas, whether on idle, revving it on idle, or moving in that low rpm range.
Yes, it happens consistently at low RPM. I think you'll find the tick tends to magically vanish when oil pressure reaches about 30psi.
 

 
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