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Per Ford (officially) the 2011-2019 F150/Mustang 5.0 “Typewriter Tick” is a normal characteristic

Zelek

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I've heard the high boron content in the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is what helps. I don't run any other oil but this in any of my cars. It's fantastic stuff.
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Condor1970

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I've heard the high boron content in the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is what helps. I don't run any other oil but this in any of my cars. It's fantastic stuff.
High Boron is probably the main reason why Ceratec additives work as well as they do. I find I never need a whole bottle. Just add about 50-100ml for the full 10qt oil change is about all it needs to subdue the tick.
 

The Demon

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It’s funny. I had the tick after my August oil change at 35k. I had never had it before and then it just went away and even after my last oil change in December it’s still gone. Maybe I’m just lucky. Approaching 40k. No ceratec used.
 

NeedForGreen

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It’s funny. I had the tick after my August oil change at 35k. I had never had it before and then it just went away and even after my last oil change in December it’s still gone. Maybe I’m just lucky. Approaching 40k. No ceratec used.
 
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barron64

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Penzoil Ultra Platinum (PUP) 5w-30 still getting it done for me. Ultimate test is to shut down car, after fully warmed up, and let it sit for 30-45 minutes the re-start. Running Mobile 1 you would get the tick with a vengeance. Running PUP… silence. Awesome.
Side note… running Castrol Edge 5w-30 with a bottle of Ceratec over last oil change interval, car used no oil in nearly 10k miles! Sitting at 41k at the moment. Hopefully that will continue. A buddy of mine is trying a bottle of Ceratec in his GT350 to see if it has a positive effect on his cars oil consumption. We will see.
 

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Bulldog9

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FYI, prior to my purchase this month, the PUP I bought was labeled as SN. The latest order is certified for SP. I believe it's not just a matter of recertifying the same oil because PP had been rated SN+ for as long as that standard existed while PUP remained SN. SP is equal or better than SN+ in every way, ergo if PUP always met the new SP standard, it also met SN+.

If buying PUP to help the tick, you might want to go for the SP labeled just in case that is the spec people are saying helps/cures the tick. There is almost certainly SN labeled stock still out there.

One of the reasons for SP was a reduction in timing chain wear; maybe the changes for that also helps with the tick.

Wish they had done this sooner as I was using PP instead of PUP in my boosted Cadi to get the extra LSPI protection of SN+.

Another note, PUP contains a small amount of something that settles out. Good idea to shake it up if it's been sitting for a while if you want to make sure all of whatever it is gets into your engine.
API ratings drive me crazy.... One of my favorite/preferred oils I use in my air cooled Moto Guzzi bikes is the Full Ester Motul, but it is SL rated. "Advances" in oils have been good, but as everything is bent by the environmental goals crowd (agenda).

I've used 5w30 for every change since the 1K mile change. I used the Motorcraft Semi Synth for the 1K and 5K change. At 10K I put in the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. I occasionally have some ticking while cold idling, but rarely if ever. Heard it immediately with the Motorcraft.

I'm at 14K miles right now, and have virtually NO oil consumption. I had some the first 5K miles, but none since.

So, though the 2020 motors call for SM(?) can I/we safely use SL?
 

GT Pony

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Thats exactly what happened to mine. Third oil change I got the tick. After a couple thousand miles it went away. Just had my 4th change done and still gone.
The AF/AW additives built-up on parts over time to make a decent tribofilm on surfaces, and that causes less friction between moving parts. Change the oil, and the new oil strips most of the existing tribofilm, and that causes more friction and the tick comes back. That's my theory on why the BBQ comes and goes, and comes again.
 

Dave2013M3

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Just an FYI, had my oi change done at the dealer (another oil pan leak, another thread on that) and of course as soon as I pick up the car...the tick. I literally only had to use 100ml to get the tick to go away of LiquiMoly Ceratec. I know it goes away in a few thousand miles but that tick drives me absolutely bonkers.
 

accel

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This whole bbq tick thing made me oil change addict.
 
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It’s funny. I had the tick after my August oil change at 35k. I had never had it before and then it just went away and even after my last oil change in December it’s still gone. Maybe I’m just lucky. Approaching 40k. No ceratec used.
Did you always use premium 93/91 octane gas and never used 87 regular?
 

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The Demon

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Did you always use premium 93/91 octane gas and never used 87 regular?
I always use 91. Wish I could use 93 but not available in California. It was weird. I am in an underground garage so hearing the tick is very easy. One day I started the car for work in the morning from outside it and I could hear it distinctly. After the next oil change it was gone. Can’t explain it.
 

blk_bean_s550

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Hi all, just joined the forum. Unfortunately my first post has to go to this obnoxious ticking noise my car is making. After reading through several threads and watching several videos, I don’t believe that my car is exhibiting “typewriter tick”, but something different. Ford dealership tried to tell me it was the HPFP, but that doesn’t correlate with where the sound is coming from. I’ve attached a few YouTube links of videos I’ve taken of the sound, including one where you can still hear the ticking from 75 feet away.

Any ideas or help are much appreciated!













Edit: it’s a ‘21 Mustang GT base, 6-speed, got it with 19 miles on it on 1/25 and it just rolled 4000. Haven’t had any oil change yet, only mod is a roush cold air intake
 

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That is NOT the typewriter tick, and is not the 3K VVT rattle. That sounds like a bad lifter (cam follower)....
 
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19gtaz

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Sure sounds like it's in the valvetrain, like a roller cam follower gone bad. I'd find another dealer to go to and soon.
 

barron64

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Typewriter tick comes and goes… does your consistently make this noise? If so you may have a bad hydraulic lash adjuster or roller follower.
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