Paxton self install, how long and should I start with E85

[andrewtac]

I got a beefcake special on the way, paxton kit with a Fore stage one for the E85. I am going to self install, this will be my first time doing something like this. I've read through the instructions a few times, it seems rather straight forward. I saw somewhere an estimation of 10-12 hours; it sure seems like it will take longer than that reading the 71 page install manual. For those who have done it at home, what is a realistic estimate for someone who hasn't installed something similar (I have a bit of time on working on older cars, airplanes, and other things) but never installed a FI system or worked much on a modern motor.

Also, I have easy access to E85, should I go ahead and just start with it and skip the 93? The tank is about half full, and was going to run it out prior to install and get a few cans of E85. Or should I start with 93 for any reason?

Any other words of wisdom, besides get ready to spend more money?

Thanks for the help.

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[wazslow]

I don't know who's tuning it, but they usually want you to start datalogging on 93 first before switching to E85.

 

[andrewtac]

I don't know who's tuning it, but they usually want you to start datalogging on 93 first before switching to E85.

Lund, was going to call them this week.

 

[wazslow]

Lund, was going to call them this week.

I wouldn't call. Everything is handled through their on line ticket system.

 

[schmeky]

10-12 hours on a first time install ain't going to be realistic. Figure 2 full days+.

Just did an install on a Stage II Procharger. "They" say easy install with common hand tools - better be a better than average assortment of hand tools.

Took a full 2 days.

 

[SolarFlare]

You have to start on 93, once thats dialed they’ll send you the e85 file

 

[GuardGT]

It’s really straight forward, should take a long focused day or two at most. A few things I have learned over the last year having a Paxton that will save you dozens of hours and money down the road:
1. Do imrc lockouts with the install. Saves issues at higher boost levels.
2. At minimum get t-bolt clamps and replace all the stock worm clamps. Dm me and I’ll get you a list of exactly that you need. I’d replace all silicone with better quality thicker boots from the start, but that’s an extra $150ish. At about a year I found cracks that were causing boost leaks over 10psi.
3. get a griptec pulley/hub setup so you can change without removing the blower, and it will never slip. $200 WELL spent.
4. Be really careful bending the AC lines and shifting the condenser.
5. Replace the idler/tensioner pulley bolt with this:
https://www.shraderperformance.com/shop/product/quick-belt-change/
Or just find a bolt and washer that fits so you can swap the belt MUCH easier. Will save hours on belt swaps and you can even change the belt on the road if it breaks.
6. when installing the charge pipes look for anywhere that it is within 1/2” of contacting anything else. There’s like 4+ spots; ac lines, bumper support area, fog light housing, maybe more. Put some sort of rubber on the contact points (weatherstrip, cut hose, or rubber and gorilla tape lol) if you think they might make contact under throttle it will, and it will cause false knock. The motor shifts a lot more than you’d think. Absolute Tuning nightmare. Along with that check every bit of the exhaust for rattles or contact with the body, including stock mufflers. All spots that will cause false knock and drive you crazy chasing it down between logs.
7. Double check the orientation of the hose clamps on the coolant lines you cut and move, make 100% sure they don’t touch the charge pipe off the throttle body or come even close. It will rip a hole eventually.
8. look at the threads here for the vacuum setup and make sure it’s correct. Possibly even look into sai li’s billet booster check valve, save you a blowout in the future and losing power brakes on a test pull.
I might be forgetting some things but I think I covered most of the big issues.

 

[andrewtac]

thanks GuardGT, PM sent

 

[BBW P1X]

Do it with friends if you have any, as well as don't rush yourself if you get stuck on a part because some things are tedious so take a break and get back in it the following day if you are really stuck. You'll get ideas overnight, other than that it is fun and enjoy it lol

 

[Jackson1320]

10-12 hours if you are horsing around with your buddies. straight working on it yourself 8 hours tops. I’m sure you can do it faster if you wanted

 

[coz0502]

Do it with friends if you have any, as well as don't rush yourself if you get stuck on a part because some things are tedious so take a break and get back in it the following day if you are really stuck. You'll get ideas overnight, other than that it is fun and enjoy it lol

"Do it with friends if you have any" This made me laugh. I'm guessing you meant any friends that are into cars, but my first thought was as you get older your friends start to drift away within their own lives. I remember a long time ago my dad told me if you have 1 friend for your entire life consider yourself lucky. At almost 43 I now realize how true that statement was. I've had some great friendships, some lasting decades but other than my brother they've all come and gone. Granted some will text or call every once in a while, but my dad's point was that friendships come and go, but family is forever whether you like it or not.

 

[BBW P1X]

"Do it with friends if you have any" This made me laugh. I'm guessing you meant any friends that are into cars, but my first thought was as you get older your friends start to drift away within their own lives. I remember a long time ago my dad told me if you have 1 friend for your entire life consider yourself lucky. At almost 43 I now realize how true that statement was. I've had some great friendships, some lasting decades but other than my brother they've all come and gone. Granted some will text or call every once in a while, but my dad's point was that friendships come and go, but family is forever whether you like it or not.

Oh yeah this is true, i can agree. Im 22 and i can say i only have one friend i can actually trust. The rest are more of friends you keep your gaurd up 24/7 lol life is crazy, like it ain't that hard to he real.. being a friend however is exhausting if that makes any senselol

 

[aleccesarenriquez]

Just wanted to make a few suggestions (my previous setup was a Paxton 2200SL)

1. I would go ahead and start with 93 just to get the logs out of the way and to have the tune handy in case you ever need it. However, once you complete the tune, I'd pretty much switch to E85 right away. The car will just run healthier that way and everything should be a bit safer. I'd also like to point out that it's false to say that you HAVE to tune on 93 first. Lund tuned my turbo setup on E85 only. I just had to ask to skip the 93 revisions.

2. Unless you like the way the inlet tube looks on the Paxton, consider a stubby filter like the BMS 4" one. You might have to cut the shroud a little bit but I think it's a better overall setup. Also if you ever want a little more boost, you can just take the filter off for an extra psi of boost. Your dyno day or anytime you're going to be racing are good times for that.

Let me know if you have any questions. There are tons of Paxton setups rolling around in Houston, and I was one of them not too long ago

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