Passenger side rattle

[NGOT8R]

I can tell you that after having my tranny apart, I really couldn’t see how this counterweight was of any benefit.

To remove it, one will need to either knock out the steel pin holding the weight to it’s incorporated shaft, or remove the tranny crossmember and shifter support bushing to lower the rear of the tranny and simply unbolt the entire assembly via the three bolts.

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[zstanny]

Well. I can't find anything on whether the TR3160 has this dampener that's been mentioned.

 

[NGOT8R]

Well. I can't find anything on whether the TR3160 has this dampener that's been mentioned.

Ah, I overlooked the fact that you have the 3160. I don’t know whether it does or doesn’t have the counterweight. For a quick answer, I recommend calling Calimer and ask them if it does, since they are building upgraded versions of the 3160 now. Please let us know what you find out.

 

[StangTime]

I can tell you that after having my tranny apart, I really couldn’t see how this counterweight was of any benefit.

To remove it, one will need to either knock out the steel pin holding the weight to it’s incorporated shaft, or remove the tranny crossmember and shifter support bushing to lower the rear of the tranny and simply unbolt the entire assembly via the three bolts.

I know you've had hands on experience with this gizmo. If one was to knock out the pin, and remove the batarang, is there any chance that the remaining shaft could work it's way inside the transmission? I assume the shaft is not held in place by the counterweight?

 

[zstanny]

Ah, I overlooked the fact that you have the 3160. I don’t know whether it does or doesn’t have the counterweight. For a quick answer, I recommend calling Calimer and ask them if it does, since they are building upgraded versions of the 3160 now. Please let us know what you find out.

Calimer confirmed the 3160 does not have the shift dampener/counterweight. Soooo. Checking that passenger side lower panel when I get home

 

[NGOT8R]

I know you've had hands on experience with this gizmo. If one was to knock out the pin, and remove the batarang, is there any chance that the remaining shaft could work it's way inside the transmission? I assume the shaft is not held in place by the counterweight?

I don’t think there’s a chance that the remaining shaft would fall into the transmission because the shaft assembly is 4 5/8” long. It’s really tight inside the tranny when all the internals are installed, so you’ll be fine.

I hope this next part makes sense. You won’t have to pull the shaft assembly straight out. You’ll want to angle it down instead, as you start to pull it out of the tranny. The large hole in the tranny will allow for this to happen very easily.

The shaft assembly is actually held in place by the counterweight. There are also two small bearings inside of the aluminum housing that bolts to the side of the transmission. The shaft assembly is inserted through those two bearings.

I’ve taken a few pics for visual reference, but you’ll notice I have removed the bearings from the aluminum housing (was looking at using it for the external fluid pump feed, but determine that wasn’t the best option). I think lowering the rear of the tranny might be worth a shot to get the whole thing out in one piece, or at least give you room to use a C-clamp, or better yet, a motorcycle chain breaking tool which has press pins to push out the pins in the chain links. Something like this:

https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...o_Moff8AhXopYQIHVMIDJUQ5bgDKAB6BAgFEBA&adurl=

 

[StangTime]

I don’t think there’s a chance that the remaining shaft would fall into the transmission because the shaft assembly is 4 5/8” long. It’s really tight inside the tranny when all the internals are installed, so you’ll be fine.

I hope this next part makes sense. You won’t have to pull the shaft assembly straight out. You’ll want to angle it down instead, as you start to pull it out of the tranny. The large hole in the tranny will allow for this to happen very easily.

The shaft assembly is actually held in place by the counterweight. There are also two small bearings inside of the aluminum housing that bolts to the side of the transmission. The shaft assembly is inserted through those two bearings.

I’ve taken a few pics for visual reference, but you’ll notice I have removed the bearings from the aluminum housing (was looking at using it for the external fluid pump feed, but determine that wasn’t the best option). I think lowering the rear of the tranny might be worth a shot to get the whole thing out in one piece, or at least give you room to use a C-clamp, or better yet, a motorcycle chain breaking tool which has press pins to push out the pins in the chain links. Something like this:
https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwil5JbMoff8AhVwhloFHfqeCMEYABANGgJ2dQ&ae=2&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAASJuRolEJn8JZSb-BdznwacuxUT90V5-uAo-glNLsIn8pBrnSTAVHe&sig=AOD64_0Nu8ZtNueak-S48a-yiKTli_5B8Q&ctype=46&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjquo_Moff8AhXopYQIHVMIDJUQ5bgDKAB6BAgFEBA&adu

Thank you for this info. It makes sense. I was hoping the shaft was held in place by a retaining ring. When the time comes to remove the batarang, I will have the Calimer plate on standby.

 

[BIGGRAY]

I don’t think there’s a chance that the remaining shaft would fall into the transmission because the shaft assembly is 4 5/8” long. It’s really tight inside the tranny when all the internals are installed, so you’ll be fine.

I hope this next part makes sense. You won’t have to pull the shaft assembly straight out. You’ll want to angle it down instead, as you start to pull it out of the tranny. The large hole in the tranny will allow for this to happen very easily.

The shaft assembly is actually held in place by the counterweight. There are also two small bearings inside of the aluminum housing that bolts to the side of the transmission. The shaft assembly is inserted through those two bearings.

I’ve taken a few pics for visual reference, but you’ll notice I have removed the bearings from the aluminum housing (was looking at using it for the external fluid pump feed, but determine that wasn’t the best option). I think lowering the rear of the tranny might be worth a shot to get the whole thing out in one piece, or at least give you room to use a C-clamp, or better yet, a motorcycle chain breaking tool which has press pins to push out the pins in the chain links. Something like this:

https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...o_Moff8AhXopYQIHVMIDJUQ5bgDKAB6BAgFEBA&adurl=

How hard would this be to re attach once removed? Ever since my weight fell off on its own I have HORRID resonance at 3-4k that makes my MGW rattle horribly.

I was hoping to remove the part, get the broken pin out of the hole, re attach the part, then re attach the weight with a stainless grade 8 nut and bolt instead of the pin ford used.

 

[GrayS550]

Idk if you solved it yet or not, but if it’s coming from the passenger side, it could be your exhaust is loose where it connects to your headers (unless you’re stock)

This is what I heard when I had a small gap between my headers and exhaust connection.

 

[zstanny]

Idk if you solved it yet or not, but if it’s coming from the passenger side, it could be your exhaust is loose where it connects to your headers (unless you’re stock)

This is what I heard when I had a small gap between my headers and exhaust connection.

Still unresolved. Just decided to live with it and let it be. It does sound similar and I appreciate that. Will check that for sure.

 

[joe603]

My wife complained about a rattle that sounded like it was the passenger side door. I took it apart and put some sound deadener around the interior panel and sections of the door. There are some clips that can vibrate...I put some material between the clip and the holder. So far, so good. Need to do the drivers' side next, but that will wait until I replace the crap-tastic B&O stereo components.

 

[NGOT8R]

How hard would this be to re attach once removed? Ever since my weight fell off on its own I have HORRID resonance at 3-4k that makes my MGW rattle horribly.

I was hoping to remove the part, get the broken pin out of the hole, re attach the part, then re attach the weight with a stainless grade 8 nut and bolt instead of the pin ford used.

I would say that it‘s going to be next to impossible to do with the tranny still in the car. You would be better off supporting the tranny with a jack, removing the crossmember and carefully lowering the tranny until you can gain proper access to remove the entire counterweight assembly. If you don’t want to order the Calimer delete plate, you can have the hole in the factory plate welded up and reuse it.

 

[BIGGRAY]

I would say that it‘s going to be next to impossible to do with the tranny still in the car. You would be better off supporting the tranny with a jack, removing the crossmember and carefully lowering the tranny until you can gain proper access to remove the entire counterweight assembly. If you don’t want to order the Calimer delete plate, you can have the hole in the factory plate welded up and reuse it.

Even if my batwing weight is already off?

 

[NGOT8R]

Even if my batwing weight is already off?

Yes, because there is n’t much room to work in that area between the tranny and tunnel. My car is currently on my lift, so standby and I’ll go take come good pics here in a few minutes to show you just how much room there is.

 

[NGOT8R]

@BIGGRAY here are pics of my tranny with the Calimer block-off plate installed. As you can see, there really isn’t much room to work between the plate and transmission tunnel. Lowering it is going to be your best option here to gain adequate clearance.

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