Parts & Cost to covert PP1 to PP2?

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plresultsman

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That's a lot of time and money for very little gain. Personally, I'd look to steeda or bmr and build the car to handle based on how you plan to use it. It will probably be cheaper and definitely handle better if done right.
When you say little gain - are you saying the difference in handling btwn PP1 & 2 is not worth pursuing? Or there is a less expensive was to achieve parity?

 

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Starting with a PP1. Could be a ‘15-‘17, but more likely an ‘18 or newer.
Just go buy a PP2 car. Don't mess around with trying to convert a PP1 car to a PP2 car.
 

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When you say little gain - are you saying the difference in handling btwn PP1 & 2 is not worth pursuing? Or there is a less expensive was to achieve parity?
The main difference, performance wise between pp1 and 2 is the wheels/tires combination
Get a ford performance track suspension kit, 18x11 Apex wheels and 305 Nt01 tires all around and you will have a better handling car than a pp2
 

Zrussian13

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When you say little gain - are you saying the difference in handling btwn PP1 & 2 is not worth pursuing? Or there is a less expensive was to achieve parity?
Both basically. If your not buying a pp2 car you'd be better off building the car you have to suit your needs. What are you trying to achieve? A great handling car for the track? A fun street car? The aftermarket world for these cars is vast and instead of throwing parts at it, you could build a better handling ride that fits your goals. You have to tell us what your trying to accomplish if you want any good feedback.
 

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Has anyone researched & executed a PP1 to PP2 conversion? Wheels, tires, sway bar, etc.? Please advise with your insights, and what you learned about cost. Obvi the magneride is big bogey, but maybe more importantly what about the other bits?
Faster simpler easier to just sell PP1 and buy pp2. You can’t buy the magna ride upgrade so you will not have all of the benefits if you try and convert.
 


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Are the PP2 sway bars available in after market? If so, where?
That I don't know. Mine came standard.

From a post back in '18

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/pp1-magneride-vs-pp2-is-this-a-reasonable-plan.105595/
The PP2 has counter spun springs in the rear and GT350 hubs, knuckles, and retuned Magneride.

Old article but details some of the differences between PP1 & PP2. Magneride, sway bars, springs, steering, ride height, wheels & tires.
https://www.roadandtrack.com/new-ca...708/ford-mustang-performance-pack-two-review/

More from Steeda
https://www.steeda.com/mach-1-vs-gt-pp2-breakdown
 
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That's a lot of time and money for very little gain. Personally, I'd look to steeda or bmr and build the car to handle based on how you plan to use it. It will probably be cheaper and definitely handle better if done right.
When you say little gain - are you saying the difference in handling btwn PP1 & 2 is not worth pursuing? Or there is a less expensive was to achieve parity
Both basically. If your not buying a pp2 car you'd be better off building the car you have to suit your needs. What are you trying to achieve? A great handling car for the track? A fun street car? The aftermarket world for these cars is vast and instead of throwing parts at it, you could build a better handling ride that fits your goals. You have to tell us what your trying to accomplish if you want any good feedback.
Goal: Build a car that is track-able up to 6x a year (HPDE, etc) but can also make a 6 hour drive to/from for a weekend in reasonable comfort.
 
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When you say little gain - are you saying the difference in handling btwn PP1 & 2 is not worth pursuing? Or there is a less expensive was to achieve parity

Goal: Build a car that is traceable up to 6x a year (HPDE, etc) but can also make a 6 hour drive to/from for a weekend.
That helps. The reason I wouldn't build a pp2 clone based off what you've said so far is in my opinion the biggest advantages in the pp2 are going to be the wheel/tire set up and magnaride. At high speed the spoiler and maybe the front lip as well. (Can't recall any factual data on the front lip off hand) There's plenty of wheel tire options to get you where you want to be. If the pp2 style is what you choose that's a fine option. Not having magnaride, I'd be looking for a good suspension set up that handles track duty and isn't brutal on the streets. And if your using it more on the track and not worried about its street manners getting there maybe you go more aggressive? That's your choice. I'm just trying to point out since you aren't starting with a pp2 you will probably be better off researching how to get to your goals with what you have in lieu of trying to half way clone a pp2. A pp2 is a great starting point but there's still room for improvement.
 

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Goal: Build a car that is traceable up to 6x a year (HPDE, etc) but can also make a 6 hour drive to/from for a weekend.
You should buy your car and then ask this question again. These questions can't be answered until you know precisely what you're starting with.

PP2? Nothing to do other than the standard S550 IRS stuff.

PP1? Lots you can do beyond the standard S550 IRS stuff. And do you get one with or without Magneride?
 
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That helps. The reason I wouldn't build a pp2 clone based off what you've said so far is in my opinion the biggest advantages in the pp2 are going to be the wheel/tire set up and magnaride. At high speed the spoiler and maybe the front lip as well. (Can't recall any factual data on the front lip off hand) There's plenty of wheel tire options to get you where you want to be. If the pp2 style is what you choose that's a fine option. Not having magnaride, I'd be looking for a good suspension set up that handles track duty and isn't brutal on the streets. And if your using it more on the track and not worried about its street manners getting there maybe you go more aggressive? That's your choice. I'm just trying to point out since you aren't starting with a pp2 you will probably be better off researching how to get to your goals with what you have in lieu of trying to half way clone a pp2. A pp2 is a great starting point but there's still room for improvement.
Thank you!
 

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Starting with a PP1. Could be a ‘15-‘17, but more likely an ‘18 or newer. Hypothetical exercise at this point.
Just buy the ruby Pp2 in Colorado for 35ish. Without magneride, you're just wasting time. And for the love of God don't buy Ford wheels. Get aftermarket lookalike for half or lower, and lighter.

Just install the sways and such from the Ford track package if you're going to pass on steeda/bmr

Nobody is going to be extra impressed by you choosing Ford parts for your build.

There's a zillion build threads. Do more reading
 
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KingKona

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Just buy the ruby Pp2 in Colorado for 35ish. Without magnerise, you're just wasting time. And for the love of God don't buy Ford wheels. Get aftermarket lookalike for half or lower, and lighter.

Just install the sways and such from the Ford track package if you're going to pass on steeda/bmr

Nobody is going to be extra impressed by you choosing Ford parts for your build.

There's a zillion build threads. Do more reading
You said Magnerise.....

beavis-and-butt-head-laughing.gif
 
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That I don't know. Mine came standard.

From a post back in '18

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/pp1-magneride-vs-pp2-is-this-a-reasonable-plan.105595/
The PP2 has counter spun springs in the rear and GT350 hubs, knuckles, and retuned Magneride.

Old article but details some of the differences between PP1 & PP2. Magneride, sway bars, springs, steering, ride height, wheels & tires.
https://www.roadandtrack.com/new-ca...708/ford-mustang-performance-pack-two-review/

More from Steeda
https://www.steeda.com/mach-1-vs-gt-pp2-breakdown
Thank you! It sounds from these like the PP2 is too far a bridge from a PP1.
 

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The majority (like 90%) of the PP2 performance advantage is the Sport Cup 2 tires. I'd call the PP2 more of a wheel and tire package, and not really a unique car. Lets see which fanboys get triggered by that.

The magnaride tuning might be pretty small tweaks. IIRC the minor ride height difference of the PP2 is 100% from the short diameter 305/30 tires versus the taller tires on the PP1. I don't actually think the springs are any lower.

All magnaride cars have the same counter-wound springs. I don't actually know the knuckle differences between shelbys and GT magnaride cars.

PP1 (w/ magnaride) to PP2 suspensions are in the same general ballpark. I don't think we actually know if the PP2 spring rates are more like PP1, GT350, or more like GT350R, but you can cheaply install those springs or replicate them in the aftermarket. If you have a non-magnaride car, its harder to straddle performance and comfort, but I believe most people with good quality shocks and 'min drop handling springs' from Steeda or BMR are pretty happy with the ride comfort.
 

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The latter. And I would never misrepresent a car, if that’s where you are going.
I'm not saying you're doing this for misrepresentation, I didn't know if you wanted to stay authentic to Ford or just improve your overall ride.

Given its the later, I would say you should look into aftermarket parts, even from Ford Racing, as better and cheaper options.
 

 
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