P2119 with whipple stage 2

[Mconder93]

Been getting a p2119 with my whipple stage 2 when I'm WOT sometimes and sending the car into limp mode. Did some research and seems a common problem is the gasket in throttle body. I had a outside dealership do the install and can see they already replaced rubber gasket with rtv but I can't tell if it looks properly aligned or not because on driver side it does not sit flush. Just wondering if anyone else that has done the install can yell me if it looks installed correctly or not.

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[Vert]

Looks good to me and there really isn't wiggle room with bolt holes as far as moving it around.
If I remember right, one member had to adjust the TB blade to solve his issue.

 

[TX-Ripper]

If you keep getting the code, you need an extension harness replacement or new throttle body.

contact whipple

 

[1evl_gt350]

I was having the same issues,try getting a rag and clean the throttle body.

 

[Andy13186]

I was having this same issue, but I think I fixed it on my car. I posted this in the other thread

"I think I got this throttle body issue fixed on my car, not by doing the gasket maker because that did not work for me and yes I tried it and had the code about 10 times after that. The gasket maker is still on my throttle body though.

2018+ cant do any electronic voltage adjustments with the throttle body according to the Whipple tech I was talking to. What I had to do was loosen the set screw which is on the throttle body facing toward the motor, then screw the adjustment screw that is on top of the throttle body inward like 1/8th of a turn then tighten the set screw. Then test to see if you get the issue again. Easiest way for me to replicate it was to just break the tires loose hard in first or 2nd gear, sometimes when hitting 3rd gear too.

If you do get the issue again obviously you will have to pull over and restart your car, while you are pulled over loosen the set screw again then tighten the adjustment screw another 1/8th of a turn or less. Then go try to replicate the issue again.


I had to adjust mine about 4 times but now I havent got the p2119 code to come back for a few days and I have been trying to have it happen pretty hard. I literally did about 100+ rolling burnouts last weekend adjusting the screw and trying to get the code to happen - this was pretty insane and seemed abusive but just keep the car cool enough , drive for a few mins between attempts, dont hit the limiter, try not to have the advancetrac kick in, do it in a safe place where you can pull over safely, etc.

If you want, you can fully disable advancetrac, but I dont like doing that because I hit a pole at 45 mph 3 years ago ripping a burnout and totaled my CTS-V. I found the best setting to not have advancetrac kick in is track mode with TCS off. Track mode displays TCS off by default in this mode but it is not off. Try it, put your car into track mode and the traction control light will light up by default, but then if you hit the TCS off switch the car will say "traction control off". This mode seems to give advancetrac a ton of lee-way and it wont kick in easily at all if you stay straight enough. My tires arent too happy though lol they were needing replacement anyway soon.


Also If you go outward on the set screw you will have idle surge issues. So if you get idle surge issues you probably went the wrong way. Screw it in until you dont have surging -or just never unscrew the adjustment screw from how yours came if its not surging.

Also if you go too far inward you may have rev hang problems I think."

 

[Mconder93]

I was having this same issue, but I think I fixed it on my car. I posted this in the other thread

"I think I got this throttle body issue fixed on my car, not by doing the gasket maker because that did not work for me and yes I tried it and had the code about 10 times after that. The gasket maker is still on my throttle body though.

2018+ cant do any electronic voltage adjustments with the throttle body according to the Whipple tech I was talking to. What I had to do was loosen the set screw which is on the throttle body facing toward the motor, then screw the adjustment screw that is on top of the throttle body inward like 1/8th of a turn then tighten the set screw. Then test to see if you get the issue again. Easiest way for me to replicate it was to just break the tires loose hard in first or 2nd gear, sometimes when hitting 3rd gear too.

If you do get the issue again obviously you will have to pull over and restart your car, while you are pulled over loosen the set screw again then tighten the adjustment screw another 1/8th of a turn or less. Then go try to replicate the issue again.


I had to adjust mine about 4 times but now I havent got the p2119 code to come back for a few days and I have been trying to have it happen pretty hard. I literally did about 100+ rolling burnouts last weekend adjusting the screw and trying to get the code to happen - this was pretty insane and seemed abusive but just keep the car cool enough , drive for a few mins between attempts, dont hit the limiter, try not to have the advancetrac kick in, do it in a safe place where you can pull over safely, etc.

If you want, you can fully disable advancetrac, but I dont like doing that because I hit a pole at 45 mph 3 years ago ripping a burnout and totaled my CTS-V. I found the best setting to not have advancetrac kick in is track mode with TCS off. Track mode displays TCS off by default in this mode but it is not off. Try it, put your car into track mode and the traction control light will light up by default, but then if you hit the TCS off switch the car will say "traction control off". This mode seems to give advancetrac a ton of lee-way and it wont kick in easily at all if you stay straight enough. My tires arent too happy though lol they were needing replacement anyway soon.


Also If you go outward on the set screw you will have idle surge issues. So if you get idle surge issues you probably went the wrong way. Screw it in until you dont have surging -or just never unscrew the adjustment screw from how yours came if its not surging. "

Thanks for the input. I actually already get a little bit of idle surge on cold starts for about 2 mins so maybe that is a culprit.

 

[Andy13186]

Thanks for the input. I actually already get a little bit of idle surge on cold starts for about 2 mins so maybe that is a culprit.

On e85 cold starts I still do get a bit of surge until I give it a small amount of throttle and start driving, this just fixed the p2119 limp mode problem. I dont mind the e85 cold start stuff my car did that even on the stock throttle body and e85 I think. If you have the TB adjusted wrong you will have surge constantly even when hot at idle.

Also if you go too far inward you may have rev hang problems I think.

 

[Mconder93]

On e85 cold starts I still do get a bit of surge until I give it a small amount of throttle and start driving, this just fixed the p2119 limp mode problem. I dont mind the e85 cold start stuff my car did that even on the stock throttle body and e85 I think. If you have the TB adjusted wrong you will have surge constantly even when hot at idle.

Also if you go too far inward you may have rev hang problems I think.

I'm running 93 and I also don't mind the sound lol. Sounds like I have a small cam lobe for about 20 seconds on cold start. Once warm it's starts and idles smooth as can be.

 

[Julianc]

Kinda having the same problem with my cobra jet, runs fine for about 10 mins then after the car goes above 5k Rpms goes into limp mode and rpms get stuck and I have to hit the gas for it to go back down

 

[Superman112]

Sorry to resurrect this thread but any particular brand of RTV sealant to use if I want to use it on my TB? I’m having some issues with my VMP twin 69 TB on my Odin kit. Thanks

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