Owned my 2016 GTPP for 2 years as of yesterday. Here's what I think...

[Nickel]

It's awesome. Good talk.



Seriously. Here are some things I've encountered normally and while modifying things. I drive my car on very technical road courses and overall spend a lot of time having fun in it so it gets its fair share of abuse when it's not hibernating.

"Mods"
McLeod RXT twin disc clutch
Steeda 35 in/lb clutch spring
BMR lowering springs
25mm hub centric spacers and lug kit from CJPP
19x9.5 PP wheels squared on 275/40
Muffler and resonator delete
GT350R aluminum strut tower brace
GT350R shift knob
GT350R Recaros
Pennzoil 5w20 Ultra Platinum
BG fluids
CJPP LED all around

"Weird issues"
1. I bought this car with a Barton short shifter. For some reason it would lock me out of gears so the first thing I did was have Ford install an OEM unit.
2. Randomly on the way to work last year, it was about 40°, windows up, defroster on, exhaust doing what it does, my rear window exploded. I actually called an officer because I wasn't totally sure I hadn't been shot at. We blamed it on weird science, got it replaced, all good so far.
3. Ghost check engine lights: Twice me and my wife were on 2 different highways doing 2 different things and I had a check engine light show up and go away with nothing else happening. Pulled the codes and it was a random misfire. All I did was swap plugs from front to back and it never came back. They were in good shape so I plan to swap them at 50k.
3. Clicking noise coming from right rear. Took me a while to figure this out but when I did attempt it finally, I got it right first try. It turned out to be a shattered thrust lock washer for the hub. Ford has updated them. All good.
4. Going to GT350R Recaros: This swap was fine except I ended up having to replace the passenger occupancy sensor assembly with the swap otherwise the airbag light would stay on.
5. Backup camera used to be weird. Sometimes the screen would just stay blue as if the camera was done. I just messed with the wires once and made sure they were tightly connected and haven't had an issue since.
6. Oil consumption: It is not consistent. Sometimes I can run the dragon for a weekend spending lots of time at 7k rpms and come home and it not lose a drop. Then I can check it at work and add a quart. Either way, I check it frequently and have never had to add more than a quart or so every 5k miles, sometimes almost none.
7. Tires. Every set of Pirelli P Zeroes I've had always gets knots in the sidewall. This seems consistent with other consumers and other makes and models as well. Good grip, shitty quality in my opinion.
8. Mileage: I usually don't drive highways but when I do I get 20-25mpg but usually average 16-17 with city, some highway and some spirited driving mix.
9. Oil leak. Took my car into Ford because I was getting an oil leak near the oil filter housing. Turned out to be a tsb recall for not enough sealant on the oil pressure sensor which they fixed free of charge. No issues since.


All in all, this car has given me less shit to worry about than I thought it would but still enough where I need to be alert about them. It's been a hell of a car to own, and I wouldn't ever get rid of it, only add more to the fleet. If you want it to last a long time, have a budget for your car's maintenance and modifications, do as much of the work yourself as you can, and always keep an eye out to know how your car is behaving. Use good quality shit and keep logs and notes and document everything you do. Other than that, just drive the hell out of it and enjoy this time because they're not always going to be building cars like this. We're on the downward slope of where technology is headed if you're a true car guy.

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[JohnD]

You need better wheels and tires. The stock Ford PP wheels are heavy AF and way to narrow. Look into some Apex 19 X 11's or 18 X 11's if you want to run used slicks. You need to be on 305's squared for maximum tire life on track. You've already got the spacers you will need to do that. Those Recaros will not do the job once you get the car up into the 1.5 G range, you will need proper race seats, a roll bar/cage and 5/6 point harnesses.

 

[Nickel]

You need better wheels and tires. The stock Ford PP wheels are heavy AF and way to narrow. Look into some Apex 19 X 11's or 18 X 11's if you want to run used slicks. You need to be on 305's squared for maximum tire life on track. You've already got the spacers you will need to do that. Those Recaros will not do the job once you get the car up into the 1.5 G range, you will need proper race seats, a roll bar/cage and 5/6 point harnesses.

I will keep the PP wheels for the street because I like them but I am ordering 19x10 SVE 350R wheels with a 285 square. And the Recaros aren't going anywhere. They're rare to find and this car is still a street car. Aesthetics and comfort are still very important.

 

[Rocketman]

You need better wheels and tires. The stock Ford PP wheels are heavy AF and way to narrow. Look into some Apex 19 X 11's or 18 X 11's if you want to run used slicks. You need to be on 305's squared for maximum tire life on track. You've already got the spacers you will need to do that. Those Recaros will not do the job once you get the car up into the 1.5 G range, you will need proper race seats, a roll bar/cage and 5/6 point harnesses.

The GT350 seats will do the job just fine. OP didn't say this was going to be a dedicated track car, and even if he did, those Recaros work well. Only in a stripped out racer scenario would he need to go the aftermarket seat route.

 

[Hack]

I don't think the OP is trying to get into the 1.5 G range, but I agree for track use if he goes to a better tire it would be good to have a roll bar and harness. Recaros are fine as long as the harness is nice and tight. It's difficult to control a car in fast corners when you are busy just trying to hold yourself in the seat.

 

[Nickel]

I don't think the OP is trying to get into the 1.5 G range, but I agree for track use if he goes to a better tire it would be good to have a roll bar and harness. Recaros are fine as long as the harness is nice and tight. It's difficult to control a car in fast corners when you are busy just trying to hold yourself in the seat.

I was going to get the CMS roll bar and seat delete but I am not willing to take on the sacrifices that come with it so I'm looking into getting the schroth harnesses instead. I plan to use the RE71R when I get the 19x10s. Mainly it's used for weekend fun and mountain driving.

 

[ice445]

Exploding glass is always fun. 9 times out of 10 it's caused by the robot at the factory laying the glass in slightly crooked. Over time, the flex of the chassis stresses the glass and eventually it just says no more and explodes. Glass has horrible torsional rigidity so it's just a matter of time.

 

[gadgtfreek]

Good looking car. Fixing to order the SVE R350 19x10 and 19x11 staggered set for mine. Want to drop a little weight from the factory PP2 wheels.

 

[shogun32]

Fixing to order the SVE R350 19x10 and 19x11 staggered set for mine.

fellow member sounds pretty desperate
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/sve-r350-wheels-tires-19x10-squared-1-400.154799/

 

[Hack]

I was going to get the CMS roll bar and seat delete but I am not willing to take on the sacrifices that come with it so I'm looking into getting the schroth harnesses instead. I plan to use the RE71R when I get the 19x10s. Mainly it's used for weekend fun and mountain driving.

What I've always done is to drop in the roll bar for a track weekend and then remove it afterwards. IMO it's not safe to drive on the street with a roll bar, so I do it as little as possible (just to and from the track).

If you are primarily driving on the street you probably don't want a roll bar. You will be slow enough in that case to not really need it.

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