Out of the game for a long time but is this stuff still good?

[cobra199711]

Looking to upgrade my door speakers, tweeters and amp in my 2020 Premium. Was thinking Audio Frog tweeters, JL audio 6.5s for the doors and 2 ten inch speakers in a box for the rear. I’m a Metal guy by heart but also enjoy some rap. Amp I was thinking Alpine but very open to suggestions. I’d like to spend 1500.00 for the setup not including labor. I want CLEAN highs and nice thump.

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[OF5.0]

Audiofrog makes great soft-dome tweeters. If you want a brighter high end, look at hard-dome tweeters.

Questions you need to ask yourself:
1) How loud do you want to play it cleanly? Louder = more watts needed.
2) How much bass do you want?
3) Do you only want a 6-speaker setup: 2 tweeters and two midbass drivers up front and two subs in the rear? Just want to confirm.
4) Which stock radio do you have, the 4” or 8” screen? If 8” screen, is it the 9 or 12-speaker system? The 12-speaker system has the trunk-mounted subwoofer. Ideally, you are going to need an interface device to get a clean stock audio signal for your new amp.
5) If you go with your 6-speaker setup, the new AudioControl LC 5.1300 amp and soon-to-be-released D 5.1300 amp would be an excellent choice. However, this will eat a good portion of your budget, but you won’t be lacking for power.

There are more questions to ask, but your answers to these will guide the rest of the questions.

 

[cobra199711]

Audiofrog makes great soft-dome tweeters. If you want a brighter high end, look at hard-dome tweeters.

Questions you need to ask yourself:
1) How loud do you want to play it cleanly? Louder = more watts needed. I want it pretty loud!!

2) How much bass do you want? I would say pretty decent amount.

3) Do you only want a 6-speaker setup: 2 tweeters and two midbass drivers up front and two subs in the rear? Just want to confirm.

I’m open to suggestions.

4) Which stock radio do you have, the 4” or 8” screen? If 8” screen, is it the 9 or 12-speaker system? The 12-speaker system has the trunk-mounted subwoofer. Ideally, you are going to need an interface device to get a clean stock audio signal for your new amp.

I have the 9 speaker set up I believe, Premium GT with Navigation, not the B.O system.

5) If you go with your 6-speaker setup, the new AudioControl LC 5.1300 amp and soon-to-be-released D 5.1300 amp would be an excellent choice. However, this will eat a good portion of your budget, but you won’t be lacking for power.

There are more questions to ask, but your answers to these will guide the rest of the questions.

Thank you for the great reply. If you can recommend these items, it would be great. I’m definitely looking for a nice CLEAR system with some bass. I think 2 10s would suffice in a box? Thanks so much!!!!!!! Replied with answers!

 

[StangTime]

Can't go wrong with Audiofrog or JL. But for metal or rock avoid any metal dome tweeters. Metal dome tweeters are typically harsher sounding and you will find they will fatigue your ears. I listen to mostly rock, heavy metal, alternative, some dance & electronic and I find that silk dome tweeters are the most versatile and best sounding without being overbearing for all music genres.
One thing this car really benefits from is a DSP to fine tune the sound. But if you just want loud, you won't need one. A suggestion is to buy an amp with built in electronic crossovers to allow to run without passive crossovers on the speaker wires. Cleaner, more flexible and without the added cost of a DSP. Look at the 5 channel Hertz HCP5D amp full active crossovers and plenty of power to play loud. I have one and I love it.

 

[OF5.0]

Thank you for the great reply. If you can recommend these items, it would be great. I’m definitely looking for a nice CLEAR system with some bass. I think 2 10s would suffice in a box? Thanks so much!!!!!!! Replied with answers!

You have a 3-way system in the doors/A-pillars. A very good 3-way system that fits is the Focal Flax Evo speaker set. Replacing the 3.5” in the door is a good move. Could you do a 2-way system,? Yes, but it will sound better with the 3-way set. Each speaker will play the optimal frequency ranges for their sizes.

Regarding the audio signal, to avoid cutting any stock wiring, use a Maestro iDatalink aFO3 harness with either a Maestro AR or DSR1 unit. This will give you 4-8 RCA outputs for your amplifier(s). The harness will also allow you to connect back into the stock speaker wiring from your amplifiers.

 

[StangTime]

You have a 3-way system in the doors/A-pillars. A very good 3-way system that fits is the Focal Flax Evo speaker set. Replacing the 3.5” in the door is a good move. Could you do a 2-way system,? Yes, but it will sound better with the 3-way set. Each speaker will play the optimal frequency ranges for their sizes.

This is true, but only in cars where the midrange has it's own separate enclosure space. There is a huge issue with the 3-way design in the Mustang. The midrange and the bass driver share the door cavity. The back wave from the bass frequencies are going to move the cone of midrange and produce a lot of inter-modulation distortion. Sealing off the midrange housing is impossible due to the lack of space in the door. Therefore there are really only 2 good options.
1. The cheapest and less complicated way: Eliminate the midrange driver from the door and seal the hole for better mid-bass. Use a tweeter with a very low Fs (resonant frequency) value. That will allow the tweeters in the A pillars to be crossed over at 2khz or less. This will help lift the sound stage. Check the spec. sheet. Cross over frequency for the tweeters should be at least 1.5 to 2.0x the Fs value.
2. Use a sealed midrange. This type of midrange looks like an enormous tweeter with the back closed off. These are perfect for use in enclosures shared with a midbass driver.

From testing I did when playing deep bass frequencies on the lower door speakers, the hole in door for the midrange was acting like a port. I could feel and hear bass coming out of this hole. Absolutely terrible place to mount a midrange driver.

I went with a Hertz MPK165P.3 2-way system, I can crossed over at (2kz) and sealed the midrange hole. It sounds fabulous and you would never know the midrange driver was gone.

 

[cobra199711]

Ok, so shop wants to install a DSP, 10 inch Fosgate P3D2 sub, Fosgate door speakers and tweeters, dynamat the doors,custom box, Fosgate Amps one for the front 600 watt and one for the subs 500 watt. Thoughts? For 2700.00

 

[BetOnBlack]

Ok, so shop wants to install a DSP, 10 inch Fosgate P3D2 sub, Fosgate door speakers and tweeters, dynamat the doors,custom box, Fosgate Amps one for the front 600 watt and one for the subs 500 watt. Thoughts? For 2700.00

I did a similar DIY setup on my base 6 speakers Stang. 2 Fosgate tweeters, 2 two-ways for the doors and two more in the back. I added a P3D2-12 sub in a Zen Enclosures box behind the rear seats. It's powered by the P500X1BD amp and makes tons of base especially with the seats folded down.

I didn't add an amp for the speakers, but I going over 15 volume is too loud for me anyways.

Your shop's price seems high. I spent around 1200 for the whole setup, but adding dsp, amps, dynamat, and a custom box sounds like a decent deal. I wish I went to full dynamat and dsp route, but removing all the interior panels and having to do some soldering was a PITA. I'd recommend just getting a prebuilt sub box designed for the mustang to save some costs.

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