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Ordering a new car. If you could have either the B&O stereo or active exhaust?

MIDLYFE

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I followed this video because I didn’t want to have to remove the whole dash again, nor did I want to cut the speaker wire at the amp. It worked perfectly with no damage to the dash or speaker cover and allowed me to unplug and remove the speaker altogether.

Thanks. Does the Nav voice still come through clearly enough?
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FunkinGoNuts

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Just wondering why pay hundreds more for the Roush than AE? You could even add a H/X pipe to AE and it would still be cheaper. And sound fantastic.
Because the Roush Catback has a way better sound (and quite louder) than AE. I have no intentions of worrying about being quiet

 

Fly2High

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I personally went non-active exhaust and standard stereo for a couple of reasons:

1. I knew I was going to intall a Ford Performance by Borla exhaust

2. I have a "regular" stereo in my F150 and it's fine for me

As an aside, I had active exhaust in my C7 Z06 Corvette, and it was rather frustrating for a few reasons. Valves open and close @ different rpm/throttle settings depending on mode.
So in track, it starts off quiet, then valves open, then close at speed...then open, then close...and repeat. Sport and tour, same thing. I'd drive and fart around with the mode selector trying to get it right. Removing the fuse resulted in drone....

So, I now have FP by Borla Sport with a Borla resonator and stock stereo on my Mustang and I can focus on the drive!
as far as I can tell, the muffle valve in the Mustang AE remains fixed once the setting is selected. It does not respond to throttle.
 

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MIDLYFE

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Yes it does and it’s crystal clear too.
Ok I have it apart. Did you remove the connection and leave the speaker in or just remove the speaker entirely. Also, do these pieces clip back in easily?
 

StangTime

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Ok I have it apart. Did you remove the connection and leave the speaker in or just remove the speaker entirely. Also, do these pieces clip back in easily?
I left the speaker there. Just zip tied the wire and connector so it wouldn't flop around.
 

NGOT8R

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Ok I have it apart. Did you remove the connection and leave the speaker in or just remove the speaker entirely. Also, do these pieces clip back in easily?
I removed my speaker completely and zip tied the connector to the existing wiring harness, so it wouldn’t rattle around.
 

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Doc2020GT

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FreePenguin

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I used a snip, just snipped the green wire for me. Taped so won’t touch again. Can be reconnected in 2 mins

don’t even have to remove kick panel to access it
 

Hasty Piper

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I had this very debate in December. I was trying to decide between two leftovers. One had the active exhaust and the other had the blackout package and B&O. I went with the radio and blackout package. No regrets. Going to change the exhaust in the spring anyway. Either is a great choice in the end. Good luck.
 

MIDLYFE

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I left the speaker there. Just zip tied the wire and connector so it wouldn't flop around.
The center speaker has finally been disabled and the sound system is much better. I am pleased. Thanks to everyone here who have been so helpful. I love this place and wish I had found it sooner.
 

MIDLYFE

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I had this very debate in December. I was trying to decide between two leftovers. One had the active exhaust and the other had the blackout package and B&O. I went with the radio and blackout package. No regrets. Going to change the exhaust in the spring anyway. Either is a great choice in the end. Good luck.
I don't have active exhaust, but I also don't live in a place where I'm going to disturb the neighbors. Its a convertible therefore I don't want it to be obnoxiously loud. I did however install a resonator delete h-pipe which makes the decibel level perfect for me. The only time it really rips at start is the first cold start of the day. But when I say it rips, I mean it sounds like it wants to tear a Camaros headers off. The rest of the time its fairly tame. The 5.0 is fucking perfection. Thanks Ford.
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