OPT7 Arrow Turn Signals * Issue/ Excellent Customer Service ( for now)

[Murdered0ut150]

That sounds promising. Can you let us know in a week or so if it's still working as advertised?

I hope they're not trying to sell off all the V1's when I order mine.

Yes absolutely, I’ll be driving it to work at back all next week and will definitely be keeping an eye on them.

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[300mag]

That sounds promising. Can you let us know in a week or so if it's still working as advertised?

I hope they're not trying to sell off all the V1's when I order mine.

that's exactly what they are doing, those that complain they offer to refund without issue. opt 7 has known about this issue for some time and a redesign takes time to implement. what a real manufacturer would do is pull stock during redesign. I guess there theory is any publicity is good publicity. lol....

 

[Murdered0ut150]

Ya know I seriously thought I was losing my mind but can someone chime in on this? I went back on my IG when I posted them working and the freaking car was on!

I was second guessing myself saying “ we’re they really always like this? I thought I checked”

They weren’t hyper flashing immediately after installing ( which is essentially the same deal with the V2’s) I know time will tell but the first ones I bought were fine when I installed them hyperflahsed at some point down the road. I only noticed when I was pulling up to a store window and saw them going nuts... ugh fingers crossed this lasts

 

[Grimmer]

Occasionally mine would sequence properly while driving in traffic and seeing the reflection on the car in front of me. It seemed that when the charge voltage was down around 13V it was more likely that they worked correctly. But even then it was few and far between. Hopefully OPT7's update is a real fix.

 

[5.0_SD]

IS there a way to tell the difference between v1 vs v2? Like I said before, I 've had them a while, just never got around to installing so if I could tell what v, maybe I could send them back if they are the originals.

 

[Murdered0ut150]

IS there a way to tell the difference between v1 vs v2? Like I said before, I 've had them a while, just never got around to installing so if I could tell what v, maybe I could send them back if they are the originals.

There are two different skew #’s that I noticed. Not sure if that makes a difference what so ever but visually both before and after housing, wiring, etc looked identical.

 

[Grimmer]

I'm not sure if this is what they are calling V1 vs V2 nowadays, since it was published a few years ago but the other thread post#26 has some links to info from their website.

I did notice two things... The unit they work with in their video has a resistor type harness in the body already and they are adding a second one. Mine did not have the first harness inside. They documentation claims that all new units will include the resistor correction. That could mean that it was integrated elsewhere or it could mean that mine was new old stock and therefore missing the resistor fix. They supplied me with a set of resister harnesses and they had no effect.

Second, the number on their driver circuit in the video has no letter at the end of it. Mine had a "C" as the last digit. I assume this to be a revision indicator of the driver circuit. Mine did not work in my car.

I asked OPT7 about the model numbers and all the labeled numbers on my units to try to determine if they were new old stock or the latest and greatest. I didn't get an answer to that part.

Perhaps they have a complete new version 2 that is making a difference and the above really is old news.

 

[Fogg]

I hope I am not hijacking this thread... I just installed these on my MY mustang (15er S550). The built quality - as described above - is perfect and they look great

I had two issues so far:
a) hyperflashing - or say inconsistent turn signal. A chat witth their support and they sent me the additional resistors. Issue solved. Awesome.
b) swithchback not working. This means I do not have the white light together with my DRL. I tried forscan to activate it but it does not work. My stang ignores all changes I make to the blocks.

Did anyone have the second issue and knows how to solve this?

 

[Grimmer]

*** Please note that the information in these two threads are specific to the US model Mustang and MAY BE DIFFERENT for the non-US models.

With FORScan you don't need to enable all the DRL stuff. You just need to change BCM 726-26-02: x1xx xxxx xxxx. You can verify in the spreadsheet in cell A26.

However, this will activate the entire parking light circuit for DRL's. Including the side markers and tail lights. It will also put the gill light DRL's into nighttime / lights on (half bright) mode.

By default there is no DRL power available at the front turn signal. OPT7's website product page now includes a special disclaimer that their signals will not serve as white DRL's unless you turn on your parking lights. The FORScan mode above will turn them on and off for you automatically.

If you want to add the OPT7 Arrow's white mode as a DRL with full intensity gills and no other parking lights, you will have to supply switched power to them. This is the basis of the discussion around the diode pack installation between these two threads. There is a switched power source direct from the fuse block that conveniently arrives at the headlamp assembly on both sides of the car. So far this has been the easiest option to tap into for switched power. You need the diode packs to prevent merging circuits which has the potential to put too much load on the BCM's parking light circuit.

If you want to confirm whether or not this may work and give it a try for your car (assuming non-US in Switzerland) then we will need to get some details and take a closer look at your car's options and factory setup / behaviors and confirm the schematics we've looked at do in fact apply to your vehicle (preferably before any add-on wiring attempts).

There is a provision for a dedicated DRL circuit... maybe the car you have in Switzerland is so equipped and it could be a lot easier to get something set up.

 

[Fogg]

Thanks for your update. My car is actually a US model - I bought it in Florida and shipped it here

I believe I tried 726-26-02: x1xx xxxx xxxx already without success. But I'll do again tomorrow (getting late here by now).

 

[Grimmer]

Thanks for your update. My car is actually a US model - I bought it in Florida and shipped it here

I believe I tried 726-26-02: x1xx xxxx xxxx already without success. But I'll do again tomorrow (getting late here by now).

Remember that the BCM will turn off the DRL's if the hand brake (or parking brake) is set. Perhaps if you have an automatic it also has to be in gear to turn on the DRL's? Not sure about the automatic, since mine is a manual. I had to chock my wheels to prevent it rolling around with the engine running, the transmission in neutral, and the hand brake off...

Also note that the gill lights are not technically part of the DRL circuit. They are hardwired to switched power. So the gills can be on and the DRL's can be off (based on hand brake or gear position position).

 

[300mag]

Remember that the BCM will turn off the DRL's if the hand brake (or parking brake) is set. Perhaps if you have an automatic it also has to be in gear to turn on the DRL's? Not sure about the automatic, since mine is a manual. I had to chock my wheels to prevent it rolling around with the engine running, the transmission in neutral, and the hand brake off...

Also note that the gill lights are not technically part of the DRL circuit. They are hardwired to switched power. So the gills can be on and the DRL's can be off (based on hand brake position).

I had my fog lights activated in forscan as DRL at one time and yes the car does have to be in gear on automatics.

 

[Fogg]

Thanks guys.. very helpful. I do have an automatic, so I will need to check with the gear in D. So far I obviously only did it in P as I was alone and dont want to car to roll around

I just realised, based on the manual there should be an option in the IPC to turn DRL on or off. I did not have this option. Checking the IPC blocks there is a setting to turn this on/off (IPC: 720-02-01). Changing this gave me the entry in the IPC, but I cannot select it.

So it seems my car simply does not have and DRL option - which is also why I cannot program any of the it to work. I didn't know this was something you could by or not. I'll try some more research if this is just a software thingy or if I am missing some hardware/circuit.

 

[Grimmer]

Thanks guys.. very helpful. I do have an automatic, so I will need to check with the gear in D. So far I obviously only did it in P as I was alone and dont want to car to roll around

I just realised, based on the manual there should be an option in the IPC to turn DRL on or off. I did not have this option. Checking the IPC blocks there is a setting to turn this on/off (IPC: 720-02-01). Changing this gave me the entry in the IPC, but I cannot select it.

So it seems my car simply does not have and DRL option - which is also why I cannot program any of the it to work. I didn't know this was something you could by or not. I'll try some more research if this is just a software thingy or if I am missing some hardware/circuit.

There was no choice to buy the DRL option, it was selected at the factory to comply with the laws of the market the car would be delivered to. There is a dedicated DRL circuit in the BCM connector. The US cars don't utilize the dedicated DRL circuit. FORScan allows you to choose from some of the existing circuits to be tied into the DRL function (Fog, Parking, Headlight Low, Headlight High, etc.) without using the dedicated DRL circuit.

I do not have the DRL option in the IPC either. I tried to activate it as described in the FORScan thread & spreadsheet. The option appeared in the IPC but it had no effect for my car. Others have told me they experienced the same thing. I eventually restored all of the DRL related options to my original As-Built values (I had tried many variations and combinations). When I changed the 726-26-02 block the parking lights would turn on and behave like DRL's. This required that all conditions for the DRL's turning on were met though (e.g. ignition on, automatic in gear, and parking brake off). If you want to be extra thorough you can set all of these (reference rows 25, 26 and 27 in the spreadsheet):

726-26-02: x1xx xxxx xxxx (activates parking lights as DRL's)
726-45-01: xxxx 7Fxx xxxx (allows all possible DRL circuit combinations)
726-50-01: 01xx (bit wise selection of which lighting circuits to include in DRL function. 01 = None - Parking lights only)

The above combination also worked for me, but so did just 726-26-02: x1xx xxxx xxxx. My car is a 2016 and yours is a 2015, but the FORScan info should work for both.

Since you will have to be in gear with the parking brake off, you will want to get a helper or set up a mirror to see the lights. Or if you trust wheel chocks to hold it still while in Drive with no brakes you could get out an look for yourself. (Note, my DRL's came on with the ignition on, brake off, but the engine did not have to be running)

 

[Fogg]

Thanks @Grimmer.
I tested again with the car gear in D and parking brake on (for automatic this seems to work as well) ... and indeed, something different happens then. I've never witnessed that. Surprise surprise...

I have now activated front turn lamps as DRL as my assumption is that should make them light up in white while not flashing. But this is not the case ... the arrow starts flashing amber, similar to the fibrilant flash without the resistor.

I'll try the other DRL settings as well and see if I get somewhere close to what I want/expect (at least to see the arrow white so I know they work correctly). Activating the parking lights is probably not helpful as these would be on the connector which is not connected anymore. I might be able to re-use this connector to supply the power to the green cable though...

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